Walk 59 Filey to Scarborough

Walk 59 Filey to Scarborough (Yorks)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 101
Distance: about 10 miles
Difficulty: Moderate. Energetic cliff walking.
Terrain: mainly cliff paths, some pavements
Access: parking at both ends
Public transport: good train and bus services at both ends

Re-join the coastal path at Filey. The path continues to Filey Brigg to the north of the town. This finger of gritstone projects one mile into the sea and protects the beaches at Filey. According to local legend it was the beginning of a bridge that the devil planned to build so that Yorkshire could be joined to Europe. A Roman signal station once stood near here to help keep out the Picts coming down from Scotland.

On the land near Filey Brigg is a white jagged pole. It is a copy erected by a local community group in 2001 and commemorates the many similar ‘rocket poles’ which were once placed along the Yorkshire coast. These were used to simulate rescues from stricken cargo ships. The Filey Volunteer Life Saving Rocket Company was formed in 1872 and they practised techniques such as firing a rescue line from the pole. They practised this until 1964 – it is not clear to me whether their skills were ever used for a rescue.

The path passes some interesting collections of rocks before Cayton Bay. The cliff formations here are dramatic but care needs to be taken on the sands as there is a risk of getting stranded. The walk continues along to the South Bay of Scarborough, England’s first holiday resort. The most striking landmark is The Grand Hotel, a Grade 2 listed building. It was built in 1867 and is in the shape of a ‘V’ in honour of Queen Victoria. The hotel represents the calendar year: the four corner towers represent the four seasons, the twelve floors the months, fifty two chimneys the weeks and three hundred and sixty five rooms the days. If you get a chance, pop into the entrance to look at the impressive staircase. A plaque on the side of the building marks the death here of Anne Bronte in 1849. There is also a memorial stone in the churchyard near the castle. It was for medicinal reasons that the town originally expanded. The properties of the spa here were expounded as early as the 1620s when water from a local stream was described ‘as a most sovereign remedy against melancholy and windiness’.

The area around south bay has the feel of a typical British seaside resort including a ‘fair’ type amusement park. Cafes, fish and chip shops abound including one with the interesting name of Winking Willy’s. The harbour is worth a stroll around. Marine Drive sweeps from the south bay to the North Bay. It was a venue for many events when it was built in 1908.

The Norman castle which has dominated the town for more than 800 years stands on the headland between the north and south bays. Although it has been besieged six times the castle has never been taken by military force. The worst damage was caused by the Roundheads in the English Civil War and by German bombing in World War 1.

Photos show: Scarborough Castle, Scarborough South Bay including The Grand Hotel, Filey Brigg and a feature in the clifftop gardens at Filey.

Walk 58 Flamborough Head to Filey (Yorkshire)

Walk 58 Flamborough Head to Filey (Yorks)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 101
Distance: about 11 miles
Difficulty: Moderate. Energetic cliff walking.
Terrain: paths and pavements with the option of walking on the sand.
Access: parking at both ends
Public transport: 510 from the village of Flamborough (a couple of miles extra walking from the Head) bus and train service in Filey. Parts of this walk may need diversions as the cliffs are eroding and access may be restricted.

Start from the finishing point last time at Flamborough Head. There are two lighthouses on the head. The oldest one, made of chalk, was built in 1673 and is the oldest surviving light tower in England. It is thought by many to have been a lookout tower rather than a lighthouse. The iron grill at the top was designed to burn wood which could warn of an invasion although there is no evidence of it actually being used. The newer lighthouse was built in 1806 to warn of the dangers of the rocky coast – many ships have floundered on the rocks over the years. The lighthouse keepers left in 1996 when it became automated. The lighthouse is open to the public during the summer.

A couple of miles walk northwards is North Landing. Before descending to the attractive inlet you can see an area has been devoted to Yorkshire Cancer with messages and a collection box. There are many plaques with various comments, for example: Please drive carefully in Flamborough we have two cemeteries and no hospital; when I want a peerage I shall buy one like any honest man; there’s one good thing about being poor it costs nowt. There are many more to ponder over. North Landing was originally the centre of the Flamborough fishing industry.

The area from Flamborough to Bempton supports England’s largest seabird colony and Britain’s only nesting gannets. A little further along is Thornwick Bay. Many caves can be seen along this stretch and they are a source for tales of smuggling. Until the early twentieth century men used to be lowered down the cliffs along here to collect the eggs of guillemots, kittiwakes and razorbills – a practice known locally as climming. As many as 400 eggs were collected daily and sold locally for food or sent to the West Riding of Yorkshire for use in the leather trade. Remarkably few men were injured even though their only protection was a cap cloth stuffed with straw. The area has been managed by the RSPB since 1971.

The walk continues along Bempton Cliffs which tower up to 420 feet. About 10% of the UKs Kittiwake population live along here. There is a large puffin population which relies on the sand eels. These are plentiful at the moment but global warming could threaten stocks. The puffins fly 25 miles out to Dogger Bank on fishing trips. After Buckton Cliffs a choice needs to be made between walking along the sand (tides need checking and access to the beach is limited). I walked inland via Speeton , Reighton and back on to Hummanby Sands, along Muston Sands then into Filey. The town has an elegant frontage.

In the past well known people such as Charlotte Bronte and Fredrick Delius enjoyed the quiet surroundings of Filey. It was transformed from a fishing village into a planned town in the 19th century. The cliff tops are very well presented and looked after. It was from here in 1779 that locals watched the fierce battle of Filey Bay between the English and the navy led by John Paul Jones fighting for American independence. It resulted in a win for the Americans. There are 5 miles of sandy beaches to enjoy. To the north of the town is The Coble where Coble boats (flat bottomed fishing boats) are launched.

Photos show: Flamborough Head, the modern lighthouse at Flamborough Head, messages near the Yorkshire Cancer site near North Landing and North Landing beach and cliffs.

Walk 57 Bridlington to Flamborough Head

Walk 57 Bridlington to Flamborough Head (Yorks)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).
Map: L/R 101
Distance: about 8 miles
Difficulty: Moderate cliff walking
Terrain: paths and pavements
Access: parking at both ends
Public transport: 510 from the village of Flamborough (a couple of miles extra walking from the Head) return to Bridlington; about every 2 hours Mon-Fri and hourly on Saturdays.

Walk southwards out of Bridlington to the car park near South Sands or, if going by car, start at this point. Looking south there is a good view of Fraisthorpe beach and sands. The cliffs at the back of the beach are typical of this area – they were deposited by melting glaciers at the end of the last ice age 10,000 years ago. Looking to the north, Bridlington, the cliffs and Flamborough Head are clear.

The walk northwards to Bridlington can be partly on the sands or you can drop down to the promenade that passes Hildenthorpe. In 1940 Winston Churchill ordered the building of pill boxes here as Bridlington was deemed to be in the front line of a possible invasion. Look out for any remains. A land train travels along the promenade and in to Bridlington. On a February night in 1643 (near here) Queen Henrietta Maria landed with arms and aid for Charles 1 (her husband) during the English Civil War. Roundhead ships were sent down from the River Tyne to head her off but arrived too late. They shelled the quayside where she was sleeping and she was forced to jump out of her bed and shelter in a ditch (or so the story goes).

At the southern end of the town work has taken place to refurbish Bridlington Spa. It is now a major venue for concerts and many other events. The building and the area around it are very attractive. Further along there is a pleasant walk along the harbour and quayside. In 1871 a great storm suddenly blew up around here catching dozens of mainly coal carrying vessels making their way between Newcastle and London. They tried seeking shelter in Bridlington Bay but sadly 30 ships were lost leading to the drowning of 77 men and 6 lifeboat men. As a result of this tragedy Samuel Plimsoll introduced a new law requiring all merchant vessels to make a mark on their hulls indicating maximum cargo loading levels – The Plimsoll Line.

Like many other resorts Bridlington was made popular by the coming of the railway; here it arrived s in 1842. The town had been largely built by wealthy Yorkshire families who put elegant houses along the seafront (some can be seen on the walk out of the town). They were dismayed when the railway brought hordes of day trippers from the mills and steel making towns of West Yorkshire. I suppose things have changed but I still find access to some beaches around the country cut off by rich private owners who feel they own, what is surely, a public space. These people and the military restrict access at various points around the coast.

On the cliff walk northwards out of the town the path passes by Sewerby cricket ground – there can’t be too many pitches on top of a cliff! Sewerby Hall can be spotted behind the pitch, it sits within 50 acres of garden, was built in 1714 and is now owned by Bridlington Council. It was opened to the public in 1936 by the pioneer aviator Amy Johnson (a resident of Hull). In 1958 her father presented a collection of memorabilia for display in the Hall. A little further along, the path passes the area around Danes Dyke which, evidently, has nothing to do with Danes. It is a 2 mile long ditch of Bronze age origin near the cliffs. The surrounding woodland area became a nature reserve in 2002. Look out for the wooden sculptures which include a traditionally dressed woman looking out to sea.

A few miles further along is South Landing. This part of Yorkshire is known as Little Denmark because the Danes sacked it several times before they settled here in AD 800. It is said that a peculiar accent deriving from the Danes existed here till quite recently. Look out for the memorial stone near the path. It is in honour of the patron saint for fishermen, St Brendan. If you go back into the village of Flamborough look out for the fish weather vane on St Oswald’s church. Buried here is Marmaduke Constable also called ‘The little’, he was a distinguished soldier fighting with Edward V1 in France and at Flodden. An engraving on his grave states that he died when swallowing water with a toad in it and that this ate his heart.

The noise from the thousands of birds on Flamborough Head was amazing. The trip is well worth it for this alone. From this point Lands End and John O’Groats are both 362 miles away. A naval battle was fought off the headland in 1779 during the American War of Independence. The American John Paul Jones (born in Scotland) led 3 ships in an attack on the British convoy. He claimed victory even though his own ship sank and then he escaped to the Netherlands. This area is of special scientific interest because of the geological formations, fossils and wildlife habitats. Great for bird spotters - even a bird ignoramus like me spotted a Canadian Goose waddling along near the path.

First photo Bridlington harbour, second a view of the cliffs near Flamborough.

Walk 56 Withernsea, Aldbrough, Mappleton, Hornsea and Skipsea

Walk 56   Withernsea, Aldbrough, Mappleton, Hornsea and Skipsea. (Yorks)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Parts of this section of the Yorkshire coast are difficult to access without long diversions inland. Erosion has made some of the beach walking dangerous. I visited the places mentioned above in my car and walked around them but, apart from Withernsea and Hornsea, public transport for such short visits is not really viable.

Map: L/R 107

Distance: about 6 miles or 4 if visiting Hornsea and Withernsea only.
Difficulty:  quite easy, some inclines.
Terrain: paths and pavements
Access: see above
Public transport: see above

Withernsea has an attractive seafront with its wide promenade, sandy beaches and striking inland lighthouse. No longer active, it was built in1892 and would have originally had just mudflats and sand dunes in front of it. The lighthouse now houses a museum for Kay Kendall, the actress, who was born in the town.  Another major landmark is a replica of part of Conway Castle (in Wales) and is known as Pier Towers. It was built in 1875 to form the entrance to a new pier, unfortunately the pier was destroyed by a storm in 1882. A plaque near here shows that one mile offshore lies the site of the 13^th century church of St Mary the Virgin – lost due to erosion in the 15^th century. 


The next stop is Aldbrough and a drive down from the village to the coast. St Bartholomew’s Church in the village is a listed building and has a 13^th century tower. Near to the coast the settlement has bungalows and some temporary looking buildings. If you want evidence of erosion look no further. The remains of buildings, recent victims to the wind and sea, were clear when I visited. Access to the beach appeared difficult for the same reason.

From Mappleton there is a good view of the sand in both directions. Again there is clear evidence of erosion – this is one of the fastest eroding coastlines in  the UK.

Hornsea has another attractive seafront. As you walk along the promenade look out for the post that marks the end of the Trans Pennine Trial which goes from Southport on the west coast of England to here. At the back of the town is Hornsea Mere which is Yorkshire’s largest natural freshwater lake. It has 170 bird species. The town is also well known for its pottery.

The area has been ravaged by storms over the years including one in 1871. In 1880 a pier was built for £10,000 (about one million pounds today). The structure was about half a kilometre long and boasted a 600-seater pavilion. During the autumn of the same year it was severely damaged by a gale then a ship hit it. It was sold in 1893 for scrap. A sad story about a pier - similar disasters carried up to modern times.

The last stop is Skipsea. The end of the road to the beach is blocked off due to erosion. The shore here has retreated 2 miles since Roman times and up to 23 nearby villages have disappeared. There was a cold war observation post here for some time and this was restored by an enthusiast in 2008.

Phtos show: a view of Withernsea, Hornsea, Ulmore Sands and the erosion at Aldbrough getting ever nearer.

Walk 55 Kilnsea to Spurn Head and back (near Hull)

Walk 55   Kilnsea to Spurn Head and back (near Hull)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 107
Distance: about 10 miles
Difficulty:  easy, flat
Terrain: grass paths
Access: Parking near Kilnsea
Public transport: The 73 bus runs 4 times day but only on Sundays during the summer (goes to and from Withernsea).  At other times the 71 bus runs from Withernsea to Easington but this will involve an additional 2/3 mile walk each way along roads to Kilnsea.

Kilnsea is a small settlement that has been of strategic importance in defending the country. A sound mirror from the First World War can still be seen in a field near the village. This was a device that magnified sound so that the military could hear aircraft before they could be seen. During this war a military railway ran from Spurn Head to Kilnsea. The wagons were usually run by wind power – they had no brakes so were stopped by throwing sleepers on the line. The whole area was badly hit by floods in 1953 and erosion has meant the loss of a number of buildings including the original church.

The walk down Spurn Head passes by the bird observatory. You can park at various points along Spurn Head and although it is quite expensive the money goes to maintaining the nationally important nature reserve. This is a peaceful walk with a feeling of remoteness - it passes areas of coast with the odd names of ‘Greedy Gut’ and ‘Old Den’. The spit is only about 150 metres wide but 3 miles long and is constantly changing due to the shifting sands and erosion.

Near the southern tip are the two Spurn Head lighthouses. The first reference to a lighthouse here dates back to 1427 when a hermit, William Reedbarrow, was granted the right to collect money from passing ships in return for completing and operating a lighthouse. John Smeaton built these two newer lighthouses, one in 1852, and the higher one in 1895. The old one was not used after the new one was built and was used to store explosives. It was then topped with a water storage tank which can still be seen. Modern technology meant that the newer one also became redundant in 1985.   

Spurn Head was an important military base in World War 2 and some of the buildings near the lifeboat station date from this period.. At the most southerly point near a small beach there are spikes sticking out of the sand – presumably fortifications used during war time. A pier projects out into the sea from which pilot boats leave to guide shipping along the Humber.

Humber Lifeboat Station with its impressive wall paintings is, (according to a local man), the only residential lifeboat station in the country. In years gone by there was a school here for the children of lifeboatmen and boat pilots.

On the return walk it is worth looking over the dunes to admire the scenery and observe a few keen fishermen – the only real blots on the landscape are the gas terminals at Easington.   

Photos: a view along the western side of Spurn Head, the two lighthouses at Spurn Head, Spurn Head lifeboat station wall and the pier at the end of Spurn Head.

Walk 54 Hedon to Thorngumbald via Paull (near Hull)

Walk 54   Hedon to Thorngumbald via Paull (near Hull)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 107
Distance: about 7 miles
Difficulty:  easy, flat
Terrain: paths and pavements
Access: Parking in the road at both places or you could go to the car park in Paull and just walk the coastal stretch.
Public transport:  78/79/80/277 run from Hull to Hedon every hour or so, less frequent at weekends. 75/77 run from Hull to Thorngumbald every half hour or so Mon – Fri, less frequent at weekends.

It is worth spending a little time looking around Hedon especially the church and the town hall. The latter was built in 1693 and the church was started in 1190. St Augustine’s Church dominates the landscape and is consequently known as the King of Holderness (the name for the area of land in this part of East Yorkshire). The town was at its busiest in the 12^th and 13^th centuries and was once the 11^th busiest port in England but declined as Hull grew..  

A path goes west out of the town and follows Hedon Haven along to the coast. Marsh is on one side, factory buildings, chimneys and terminals on the other. A short way along the coast is the village of Paull with good views of The Humber. This is as good a place as any to mention a few facts about this stretch of water: the Humber is formed by the meeting of the Ouse and Trent; it is not really a river but an estuary about 40 miles long; it forms the border between Yorkshire and Lincolnshire; it has easy access to canals allowing easy access to east and west across the county of Yorkshire; it is brown in colour but not dirty.

The road along the front of Paull has a building which was originally a lighthouse built in 1830 but is no longer in use. Further along is Paull Battery. The first recorded defences here go back to Tudor times. The current listed building (which can be visited) was built in 1864 as part of the coastal defence against Napoleon. It was low lying so enemy ships could be taken by surprise. During World War 2 it was used for the storage of anti-aircraft ammunition. From the coastal side you can walk a little way inland to see the outer walls with their barbed wire and what looks like an air raid shelter nestling in a grassy bank.

A little further along Fairholme Sands, Stone Creek and Hawkins Point can be seen in the distance. A path passes along the edge of Thorngumbald Drain and, via roads, leads into the village of Thorngumbald. The name of this village comes from a thorn bush and the name of the lord of the manor in the thirteenth century – Gumbaud. The village church, St Mary’s, dates back 800 years and is a listed building.

Photos: Main street in Paull, looking back to the industry to the east of Hull from Paull sea front and an old World War 2 battery near the beach at Paull Point Battery.

Walak 53 Hessle to the east of Kingston Upon Hull

Walk 53   Hessle to the east of Kingston Upon Hull

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 107
Distance: about 8 miles
Difficulty:  easy, flat
Terrain: paths and pavements
Access: Parking at Hessle Park and Ride.
Public transport:  Buses from the Park and Ride or from Hessle

The walk starts eastwards along the north of the Humber near Hessle following the Yorkshire Wolds Way to start with then on to the Trans Pennine Trail. On the way into Hull there are a number of derelict buildings by the river side (which may have been cleared by now) – one of them belonged to The Seafish Industry Authority now located in Edinburgh and Grimsby.

Hull is an interesting place and does not deserve the sneer I get when I mention it as a place to visit. Along the river front is the sculpture of some characters looking out to sea. It depicts a family from northern Europe having temporarily left ship here before going to Liverpool then by ship to America. From 1836-1914 over 2.2 million people passed through Hull en route to a new life in the USA, Canada, South America and Australia. The Wilson Shipping Line leased a separate landing wharf at Hull to cope with the numbers passing through. The outbreak of the First World War and immigration acts in the Americas almost ended the migrations overnight.


Further along near the harbour a inch anti-submarine gun points out to sea. It was recovered from the wreck of the SS Gretorria sunk in action on 27^th September 1917. The large wheel of a superbly preserved horizontal steam engine is a short walk from here at the Humber Dock Promenade. The single cylinder winding engine was originally sited at the Victorian Dock Basin further to the east. It was made in 1866 and was used to draw vessels up from the Humber for repairs and refitting. It was relocated here in 1987.

The Humber Dock promenade goes inland and a walk into the city is convenient from here. The modernised space with fountains is attractively laid out.

Hull City Centre has some impressive buildings. There has been a settlement here for at least 800 years. As a port it predates Liverpool and has maintained links with the major Baltic and Scandinavian trading centres. The city is famous for William Wilberforce (anti slavery campaigner) whose birthplace can be found in the Old Town. Other famous people include Philip Larkin the poet (a Larkin trail was set up around the city soon after I walked there), John Prescott, John Venn (of Venn diagram fame), David Whitfield (the singer), Andrew Marvell, Andrew Motion and Stevie Smith (all poets), John Alderton, Ian Charmichael (actors) and the flying pioneer Amy Johnson.

Returning to the promenade and walking eastwards are the Victorian Pier and part of the old Victorian Dock. A statue of a man leaning out towards the sea is called Voyage. There is a sister sculpture in Vik on the south coast of Iceland and they symbolise 1000 years of trading with Iceland. It was erected after the 30 year dispute with Iceland - the ‘Cod Wars’.

Further along is ‘The Deep’ an aquarium praised for its architecture. It houses an impressive collection of fish – over 3500 types. A sculpture of a Grey Reef Shark stands on the riverside of the building. From here there is a swing footbridge which I was fortunate enough to see open and let shipping through.

The walk from here is a pleasant one with very helpful information boards detailing the history of each section. These include: a foreign cattle depot which once imported cattle from the continent – in 1887 52,000 sheep 2000 pigs and 9000 cattle were brought in and slaughtered on shore - refrigeration in ships stopped this trade. Several timber ponds used to store and handle wood – these were completely drained in 1991 and houses built and old flood gates which were superseded in 1987 by a new flood defence to protect the houses built on the old Victorian Docks.

Part of this new part of Hull is celebrated by a sculpture on the promenade commissioned by local residents to depict the movement of the sea and sky.

When I walked this stretch the remains of broken down buildings on the foreshore made a rather sorry sight. I spoke to a local man who told me that there were plans to turn this area into a 24 hour container port. Local people were vigorously fighting these proposals. I wonder if they succeeded?

It is worth a stroll along to the Port of Hull which is one of the leading trade ports in the UK. There are regular short crossings to Europe, Scandinavia and the Baltic states. It is the UKs foremost port for handling timber and related products. It is also the only passenger port on The Humber – one million passengers a year use the P&O super cruise ferries from Hull to Rotterdam. These large ships can be seen at close proximity.

This marks the end of the walk and a return to Hull centre.

Photos show: Horizontal steam engine on  Hull dock promenade, swing footbridge for shipping near The Deep, old floodgates and a ship in the Port of Hull dock.