Walk 146 Helford Passage to St Keverne (Cornwall)

Walk 146 Helford Passage to St Keverne (Cornwall)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 204

Distance: about 11 miles or 18km

Difficulty: Moderate

Terrain: coastal paths and public footpaths (includes road walking).

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: A 35 bus goes to and from Falmouth to Helford Passage every hour during weekdays. I suggest getting an early one to ensure the 36 bus from St Keverne can be caught. This goes at 4:35 and involves a change at Sainsbury's Helston to get to Falmouth (takes over 2 hours, but is possible). Check to see if this is still the case.

THIS WALK CAN ONLY TAKE PLACE BETWEEN APRIL AND OCTOBER AS THIS IS WHEN THE FERRY IS RUNNING FROM HELFORD PASSAGE. BAD WEATHER CAN ALSO RESULT IN THE FERRY BEING CANCELLED.

Start by getting the ferry from Helford Passage to Helford on the opposite side of the Helford River. It runs 'on demand' during the months mentioned above. The ferry service has been operating since the 16^th century.

Frenchman's Creek, the famous novel by Daphne Du Maurier set in the time of Charles 11, is about a mile to the west of Helford. However, continue walking eastwards to St Anthony's at Meneage, the site of a medieval church.

Dennis Head, the site of a Celtic fortress, presented me with a bit of a problem. I carefully followed the signs but kept going around in circles instead of getting on the path at the south of the head and making my way to Carne. I met some locals who told me to walk across a farmer's field where there was no marked path. A fear of angry cattle and/or an irate farmer increased my walking speed and heart rate but I did join the path at the bottom of the slope.

Soon the path comes to a road and there is a fair amount of road walking until Gillan. After this, Nare Head and Nare Cove are attractive places with pleasant views. Continue southwards to Porthallow. (After Porthallow access to the coast is difficult for a few miles apart from the cove at Pourthoustock).

Look out for the plaque called 'Fading Voices' which gives a hotch-potch of facts about Porthallow. I went into The Five Pilchards Pub – evidence of the once thriving pilchard industry. Despite being a 'grockle' I was given some helpful advice on how to get to St Keverne far quicker than following the official coastal path. Basically, follow the road up to Trenoweth and take the public footpath on the left which takes you into the back of St Keverne.

The village is noted for being the site of the start of the Cornish Rebellion of 1497. The Cornish people were angry with Henry V11 who wanted to raise taxes from them to finance a war in Scotland. This went against agreements with previous kings. They formed a rebel army and marched to London. Unfortunately for them, they were defeated at the Battle of Deptford Bridge and many of those who weren't killed were executed. Severe monetary penalties were enforced against the Cornish people leading many families into destitution.

The village of St Keverne gets its name from the monastery of St Akeveranus which was sited here. Look out for the cannon at the gate of the church which was retrieved from a shipwreck at nearby Manacle Point.

Photos: View from Nare Head; Porthallow beach

Walk 145 Falmouth to Helford Passage (Cornwall)

Walk 145 Falmouth to Helford Passage (Cornwall)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 204

Distance: about 11 miles or 18km

Difficulty: Moderate

Terrain: coastal paths and pavement

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: Rail and bus links in Falmouth. A bus (No 35) goes to and from Falmouth to Helford Passage every hour during weekdays.

The walk starts in Falmouth where the coastal path winds its way round, initially through the docks, to Pendennis Point.

Falmouth is a pleasant enough place to look around and to enjoy including some rather expensive fish and chips at one of Rick Stein's outlets. The town was opened up as a holiday resort with the arrival of the railway in 1863. Near the modern harbour-side is a pyramid called the Killigrew Monument. The Killigrew family were a local wealthy family in the 18^th century who decided they wanted to provide a beautiful embellishment to the harbour.

In the town, look out for the attractive facade of St George's Arcade which was built in 1912 and was once one of the largest cinemas in the UK. Another impressive building is The Passmore Edwards Free Library which was built by the said man, a newspaper owner and philanthropist, in the early 20^th century. It is one of the 24 libraries built as a result of his bequests. A number of round the world yachting attempts have started or ended in Falmouth including those of Sir Francis Chichester and Dame Ellen McArthur. Further back in time, news of the victory of the Battle of Trafalgar and the death of Nelson were brought ashore here.

Just before Pendennis Point is a castle built by Henry V111 and strengthened by Elizabeth 1. It saw action in the civil war, ironically, from the landward side. 900 men were besieged in the castle for 6 months who then forced to give it up to the Roundheads. It is now a museum and discovery centre owned by English Heritage.

The Pendennis Castle Road has its own claim to fame. Motorcycle races were staged here between 1931 and 1937 and were the first to be held on public roads in mainland Britain.

Continue the walk around Pendennis Point and on to Gyllyngvase Beach and then to Swanpool Beach. Behind the latter beach is a small lake with high salt content that gives the place its name. It is one of a few places that a type of moss animal, the Trembling Sea Mat, is able to survive. A mineral mine once extended under the lagoon.

After another mile or so there is another attractive beach at Maenporth. Although it is sandy the name means 'rocky cove' or 'stone cove'. There was once a chemical works at Maenporth.

The walk around Rosemullion Head was very windy even though it was much calmer a little bit further inland. The spring is a good time to walk here when bluebells, gorse and purple orchids are growing. Look out for a notice on the path which warns visitors to watch out for oil beetles and not step on them as they are part of a conservation project. They are called oil beetles because they release poisonous oily deposits when disturbed – these can cause blistering and painful swelling. So don't pick them up and be careful where you sit especially if wearing shorts!

Along the south facing coast is Durgan Beach, an attractive place known for its boating. It was the home port of Captain Vancouver who explored North America in the 1790s. The area is owned by the National Trust and this includes the old school which is adjacent to the beach. This building can be rented from the trust and looks an idyllic place to stay.

A bit further along is the frontage of Trebah Gardens and its small beach. These gardens created by James Fox are open to the public.

Continue to Helford Passage with its many boats, including the ferry which feature on the next walk.

Photos show: Durgan Beach with the old school building; Rosemullion Point; Oil beetles notice.

Walk 144 Portloe to Falmouth (Cornwall)

Walk 144 Portloe to Falmouth

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 204

Distance: about 13 miles or 22 km

Difficulty: Some steep climbs between Portloe and Porstcatho, fairly easy after that.

Terrain: coastal cliff paths

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: 51 bus serves Portloe from Truro. Rail and bus links to surrounding areas from Falmouth.

THIS WALK CAN ONLY BE UNDERTAKEN IN THE SUMMER AS A FERRY IS REQUIRED TO CROSS FROM ST ANTHONY TO ST MAWES AND THIS RUNS ONLY DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS. A SEPARATE FERRY IS THEN NEEDED TO GO FROM ST MAWES TO FALMOUTH.

Also allow for a fairly early start to ensure the walk can be completed without getting stranded.

Follow the path out of Portloe and around Jacka Point. Along this stretch and out at sea to the south is Gull Rock. This is a popular nesting place for kittiwakes and guillemots and was used as a location in the 1950's film version of Treasure Island.

Continue along to Nare Head which is owned by The National Trust and back inland towards Carne Beach. About a mile inland from here is Carne Beacon one of the largest burial mounds in Britain. According to legend, the saintly King Geriant, King of Cornwall, is buried here with his golden ship (6th century AD).

The walk from Nare Head to St Mawes is around the Roseland Peninsula. There are places to stop and eat/drink on Pendower/Carne beach which seemed to be popular with families when I went.

A few miles further along is Portscatho, an attractive fishing village. It's east facing cove gives shelter from the south westerly winds so it was an ideal base for the 18^th/19^th century pilchard fleets. Fishing still takes place but on a smaller scale. The village is moreless joined with the village of Gerrans which is a little bit inland.

On the way out of Portscatho there are two things to look out for. Firstly, The Wreck Post which was erected by the Coastguard. The post simulated a ship's mast in training exercises, A rocket with a line was fired at the post and tied to the post's top. A breeches buoy (a pair of breeches which a person sits in and is hauled up along the rope) was attached to the line to practice the rescue of shipwreck victims. Secondly, a memorial near to a seat which overlooks the bay is dedicated to the 26,380 forces men killed in the Burma War of World War 2. This is evidently a unique memorial but I am unable to discover why it was placed here.

Continue the walk westwards to Towan Beach then Porthmellin Head. I noted how blue the water looked along here.

The most southerly point of the Roseland Peninsula is at Zone Point on St Anthony's Head. The lighthouse here is very nearly at sea level. It was built in 1834 and is now automatic. Prior to the lighthouse being built ships were guided by a coal fired beacon. If you watch children's TV you may recognise it as the one used in Fraggle Rock.

For centuries there have been artillery batteries on St Anthony's headland as part of the protection for Falmouth Harbour. The National Trust now owns the buildings you can see here and there are plenty of information boards about its history.

The path winds around to St Anthony's and Place Manor. Do not miss the church, a grade 2 listed building, which is usually open to look inside. Although much was restored in Victorian times, it retains some medieval parts including a coffin which can be seen outside.

From St Anthony's you get the ferry over to St Mawes. It is seasonal, but when I went the boat had broken down. Fortunately, a man with a motorised inflatable dinghy took us over. A bit scary for a non-swimmer like me but better than the massive walking detour to Falmouth which is the alternative.

It is worth spending a short while on St Mawes before completing the ferry journey to Falmouth. Once a fishing village, it has become an exclusive town attracting many retired people. The Clover Leaf Castle further along the coast near St Mawes was built in 1542 to protect Falmouth from pirates and possible invaders.

Catch the ferry to Falmouth.

Inside St Anthony's Church; Portscatho Beach

Walk 143 Gorran Haven to Portloe (Cornwall)

Walk 143 Gorran Haven to Portloe (Cornwall)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 204

Distance: 11 miles or 18 km approx

Difficulty: demanding in parts

Terrain: coastal and cliff path

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Buses every half hour (no 24) from St Austell to Gorran. 51 bus serves Portloe every couple of hours and goes to Truro. These services seem to change and on one occasion did not turn up causing me to get an expensive taxi. Double check with Traveline before going and take taxi numbers as the mobile signal is dodgy.

Continue the walk out of Gorran Haven westwards to Bow or Vault Beach and on to Dodman Point, also known as The Dodman. The name may derive from a Cornish term for bank or dyke especially as there is evidence of Iron Age ramparts. However, a local man I met up here assured me it meant 'dead man' because of the number of lives lost in shipwrecks. The Spanish Armada are said to have had a council of war when anchored near here in 1588 and formed battle lines to attack Drake's fleet. More recently, in 1966, a pleasure cruiser sank off the coast with the loss of 31 lives. At the end of the point there is an impressive stone cross overlooking the sea. It was erected in 1896 by a Rev. G. Martin as a navigational aid and a spiritual reminder.

The walk back along the point provides some attractive views including that of Hemmick Beach – deserted when I visited.

A couple of miles further along is Porthluney Cove with the Grade 1 listed Caerhays Castle and gardens. The background of wooded land is unusual for this part of the coast. The castle was designed in 1808 by John Nash (Buckingham Palace and Brighton Pavilion). It is built on the site of a 13^th century manor house and designed to appear like a Norman castle. The cost of the construction and landscaping ruined the owners and the fact that Nash used papier mache in the roof didn't help. A descendant of the original owners had his money so soaked up in maintaining the building that he shot the eyes out of the paintings of his ancestors hanging on the walls! If you have time to visit, and it is Spring, the gardens here have the largest national collection of magnolias.

Soon after Porthluney are signs stating that Portloe is 2 miles away – it felt much more than that. I asked a local if there was such a thing as a Cornish mile – 'course there is' was the reply – mmmm, I did not trust the twinkling eye and half grin.

Photos: Porthluney Cove with Caerhays Castle; Portloe.

The walk finishes at Portloe which is surrounded by spectacular scenery. Two fishing boats work out of here catching crab and lobster. The BBC 1 series 'Wild West' starring Dawn French and Jennifer Saunders as a gay couple running the village shop was filmed here and shown between 2002-2004. I don't recall it being repeated but quite enjoyed it at the time. If you fancy a drink to finish your walk go up the hill to The Ship Inn, known locally as The Drinking Kitchen.

Walk 142 St Austell, Mevagissey, Gorran Haven (Cornwall)

Walk 142 St Austell, Mevagissey, Gorran Haven (Cornwall)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 204

Distance: 12 miles or 20 km approx

Difficulty: demanding

Terrain: coastal and cliff path

Access: Parking at both ends – park in Charlestown to the south of St Austell.

Public transport: Buses every half hour (no 24) from St Austell to Gorran Haven but latest back from Gorran Haven just before 17:00. If using the bus you may want to go the other way round i.e. start at Gorran Haven. Check with Traveline for bus times. As before, there are buses back from Charlestown into St Austell and the station.

The coastal path from Charlestown takes a rather tedious route along the roads through Duporth before dropping down to Porthpean, a pleasant, small cove. There appears to be a shorter route via sections of a path along the cliff tops but having experienced some overgrown and sometimes dangerous paths in the past I stuck to the SW Coastal Path (there must be a good reason that the inland route has been chosen).

It is quite hard going to Mevagissey but there are some good views. At Black Head look out for the memorial dedicated to A L Rowse (1903-1997) a well known British historian and Cornish poet. He published over 100 books and had the reputation of being irascible, for example he hated modern life and said: “The filthy twentieth century I hate its guts”.

Continuing around there is a garden with some strange sculptures of human and angel like figures. The next major landmark is the attractive beach, ex harbour and settlement of Pentewan. The harbour and jetty built here in 1744 were soon silted up by the constant stream of waste washed down from clay-pits and other works such as tin mining upstream. Reservoirs specially built to resolve the problem had little effect and ships were even trapped in the harbour by fast forming sandbanks.

The coastal path follows the main road out of the village. I was held up here for some time by some disobedient cows on their way to milking.

Mevagissey, with its attractive harbour, is a popular place for tourists. The fishing village with its narrow streets got very congested in the days when pilchard fishing was at its height. Some loads had to be carried on poles resting on the shoulders of two men walking behind each other. In the 19th century the streets were said to reek of fish. The Royal Navy was a major market for the pilchards and they were known by the sailors as Mevagissey duck. Overfishing meant that the number of pilchards caught by the 1950s was much lower, although there are still pilchard boats operating today. A small park in the town is known as Hitler's Wall – it got its name in the 1930s from a council official who had a rather officious way of checking the boats in the harbour. The well known West country group The Wurzels wrote a song called Mevagissey.

About half a mile south of Mevagissey is Portmellon which has a long history of boat building. The beach gets completely covered at low tide.

The walk continues to Chapel Point which provides a high up view of the remote Colona Beach. Near to hear is Turbot Point and Bordugan's Leap. Sir Richard Edcumbe supported Henry V11 at the Battle of Bosworth and as a reward was offered the Brodugan estate. He was supposed to have chased Sir Henry Trenowth, a member of the Brodugan family and a supporter of the doomed Richard 111, off the edge of the cliff. Legend has it that he clambered aboard a boat and escaped to France.

The walk ends at Gorran Haven an old fishing settlement with a pleasant beach.

Photos show: Mevagissey Harbour; Pentewan; Porthpean.

Walk 141 Fowey to St Austell (Cornwall)

Walk 141 Fowey St Austell (Cornwall)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 204

Distance: 11 miles or 17 km approx

Difficulty: moderate, demanding in parts

Terrain: coastal and cliff path

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Regular buses between the two towns and good rail links at St Austell.

On the quayside in Fowey is The King of Prussia Inn which was built in 1570 and was the home of John Rashleigh who sailed with Raleigh and Drake in his own ship. Follow the walk alongside the river estuary out of Fowey. Look out for the plaque marking the fact that the US naval advanced amphibious force was based here during 1943 and 1944. The area has a historic reputation for pirates and privateers (privately owned ships commissioned by the government) who indulged in smuggling on the side. In more recent times the area has been popular with such showbiz people as Dawn French, Lenny Henry, Gloria Hunniford, Richard Madeley and Julie Finnegan.

Just outside of Fowey is Readymoney Cove. I have not been able to find out why it has this unusual name . The remains of the 16^th century St Catherine's Castle built by Henry V111 and cared for by English Heritage is here. The author Daphne Du Maurier lived in a coach house above the beach for a few years.

A mile further on is Polridmouth, an attractive cove. The stone cottage with its lawn and artificial lake is said to be the inspiration for Daphne Du Maurier's Rebecca – 'Last night I went to Manderley again.....'.

Continue around to Gribbin Head. The 25 metre red and white beacon 'Dayark' was built in 1832 to aid ships entering Fowey and was built by Trinity House. From the walk northwards from here, there are panoramic views of the undulating coastline.

The next point to stop is Polkerris Beach – the Cornish version of the name means 'fortified pool'. There are cannons on the beach wall dating form Napoleonic times. Fishing thrived here in the 17^th century but collapsed in the late 19^th century due to overfishing. If you fancy refreshment there is a cafe in the old lifeboat station (which closed in 1922) and The Rashleigh Arms for something stronger - a setting for the 1972 film Doomwatch.

The path crosses Par sands and then continues along the road. There was once a thriving clay china industry here. On the walk near Carolyn Bay there are views to St Austell with the pyramid structures of the Eden Project visible in the distance.

The last coastal stop before the walk into St Austell is Charlestown, a picturesque place used as a filming location for the TV series, The Onedin line. The port was built in 1791 – boats loaded clay on one side of the harbour whilst on the other they unloaded coal. It was said that you could tell which side of the port men worked by the colour of their faces! John Smeaton designed the harbour which was carved from solid rock.

Continue the walk into St Austell – or catch a bus from near Charlestown.

Photos show: view from walk between Fowey and Gribbin Head; Polkerris Beach; Charlestown. 

Walk 140 Polperro to Fowey (Cornwall)

Walk 140 Polperro to Fowey (Cornwall)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 201 and 204

Distance: 10 miles or 15 km approx

Difficulty: moderate, demanding in parts

Terrain: coastal and cliff path

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: It is possible to get buses between the two towns but it involves changing and it is time consuming. Suggest Traveline website to fit in with where you are staying.

Take the path out of Polperro to the coastal path some parts of which are demanding. I found lots of dog walkers to start with. If they are under control fine and if on a lead where any other animals are likely to be around also fine. However, I had an altercation with the owner of a yappy dog who decided I was a miserable old b.....d for not letting his loose dog jump up and attack my lunch. His wife restrained him.

The walk continues with great views of Lantivet Bay and Pencarrow Head. Sharp craggy rocks, sandy coves and crystal blue sea dominate.

The first major settlement is Polruan. The National Coastwatch Institution on the outskirts is supported by voluntary contributions. Also look out for St Saviour's Chapel ruins – it was built in the 9^th century and is preserved by English Heritage. The harbour at Polruan is a haven for small boats – it has a history of being a small fishing village and is situated on the edge of the River Fowey estuary. (NB to save embarrassment with the locals Fowey is pronounced 'Foy'.) Blockhouse forts were built across the river in the 14^th century and a chain was strung across to prevent enemy ships from entering and was lowered for friendly ones. More recently the author Daphne Du Maurier was a resident of Polruan and a Daphne Du Maurier festival is held every year in nearby Fowey.

Follow the narrow hilly streets down to catch the ferry that regularly goes across to Fowey.

Fowey was once a staging post on the Saint's Way, the pilgrim route through Cornwall linking Ireland with Compostela in Spain. Yet another 'suspect' legend (see Looe Island) says that Jospeh of Aramathea visited here with the child Jesus. Apparently Joseph was a tin merchant with interests in the town. Fowey is one of Cornwall's oldest and most important ports. It was strongly associated with the china clay trade but today it is more recognised as a yachting centre.

Top photo: A view across Polruan to Fowey. Lower: St Saviour's Chapel