Walk
145 Falmouth to Helford Passage (Cornwall)
(Second
leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End
Map:
L/R 204
Distance:
about 11 miles or 18km
Difficulty:
Moderate
Terrain:
coastal paths and pavement
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: Rail and bus links in Falmouth. A bus (No 35) goes to and
from Falmouth to Helford Passage every hour during weekdays.
The
walk starts in Falmouth where the coastal path winds its way round,
initially through the docks, to Pendennis Point.
Falmouth
is a pleasant enough place to look around and to enjoy including some
rather expensive fish and chips at one of Rick Stein's outlets. The
town was opened up as a holiday resort with the arrival of the
railway in 1863. Near the modern harbour-side is a pyramid called the
Killigrew Monument. The Killigrew family were a local wealthy family
in the 18th century who decided they wanted to provide a
beautiful embellishment to the harbour.
In
the town, look out for the attractive facade of St George's Arcade
which was built in 1912 and was once one of the largest cinemas in
the UK. Another impressive building is The Passmore Edwards Free
Library which was built by the said man, a newspaper owner and
philanthropist, in the early 20th century. It is one of
the 24 libraries built as a result of his bequests. A number of round
the world yachting attempts have started or ended in Falmouth
including those of Sir Francis Chichester and Dame Ellen McArthur.
Further back in time, news of the victory of the Battle of Trafalgar
and the death of Nelson were brought ashore here.
Just
before Pendennis Point is a castle built by Henry V111 and
strengthened by Elizabeth 1. It saw action in the civil war,
ironically, from the landward side. 900 men were besieged in the
castle for 6 months who then forced to give it up to the Roundheads.
It is now a museum and discovery centre owned by English Heritage.
The
Pendennis Castle Road has its own claim to fame. Motorcycle races
were staged here between 1931 and 1937 and were the first to be held
on public roads in mainland Britain.
Continue
the walk around Pendennis Point and on to Gyllyngvase Beach and then
to Swanpool Beach. Behind the latter beach is a small lake with high
salt content that gives the place its name. It is one of a few places
that a type of moss animal, the Trembling Sea Mat, is able to
survive. A mineral mine once extended under the lagoon.
After
another mile or so there is another attractive beach at Maenporth.
Although
it is sandy the name means 'rocky cove' or 'stone cove'. There was
once a chemical works at Maenporth.
The
walk around Rosemullion Head was very windy even though it was much
calmer a little bit further inland. The spring is a good time to walk
here when bluebells, gorse and purple orchids are growing. Look out
for a notice on the path which warns visitors to watch out for oil
beetles and not step on them as they are part of a conservation
project. They are called oil beetles because they release poisonous
oily deposits when disturbed – these can cause blistering and
painful swelling. So don't pick them up and be careful where you sit
especially if wearing shorts!
Along
the south facing coast is Durgan Beach, an attractive place known for
its boating. It was the home port of Captain Vancouver who explored
North America in the 1790s. The area is owned by the National Trust
and this
includes
the old school which is adjacent to the beach. This building can be
rented from the trust and looks an idyllic place to stay.
A
bit further along is the frontage of Trebah Gardens and its small
beach. These gardens created by James Fox are open to the public.
Continue
to Helford Passage with its many boats, including the ferry which
feature on the next walk.
Photos show: Durgan Beach with the old school building; Rosemullion Point; Oil beetles notice.
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