Walk 144
Portloe to Falmouth
(Second
leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End
Map:
L/R 204
Distance:
about 13 miles or 22 km
Difficulty:
Some steep climbs between Portloe and Porstcatho, fairly easy after
that.
Terrain:
coastal cliff paths
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: 51 bus serves Portloe from Truro. Rail and bus links to
surrounding areas from Falmouth.
THIS
WALK CAN ONLY BE UNDERTAKEN IN THE SUMMER AS A FERRY IS REQUIRED TO
CROSS FROM ST ANTHONY TO ST MAWES AND THIS RUNS ONLY DURING THE
SUMMER MONTHS. A SEPARATE FERRY IS THEN NEEDED TO GO FROM ST MAWES TO
FALMOUTH.
Also
allow for a fairly early start to ensure the walk can be completed
without getting stranded.
Follow
the path out of Portloe and around Jacka Point. Along this stretch
and out at sea to the south is Gull Rock. This is a popular nesting
place for kittiwakes and guillemots and was used as a location in the
1950's film version of Treasure Island.
Continue
along to Nare Head which is owned by The National Trust and back
inland towards Carne Beach. About a mile inland from here is Carne
Beacon one of the largest burial mounds in Britain. According to
legend, the saintly King Geriant, King of Cornwall, is buried here
with his golden ship (6th century AD).
The
walk from Nare Head to St Mawes is around the Roseland Peninsula.
There are places to stop and eat/drink on Pendower/Carne beach which
seemed to be popular with families when I went.
A
few miles further along is Portscatho, an attractive fishing village.
It's east facing cove gives shelter from the south westerly winds so
it was an ideal base for the 18th/19th century
pilchard fleets. Fishing still takes place but on a smaller scale.
The village is moreless joined with the village of Gerrans which is a
little bit inland.
On
the way out of Portscatho there are two things to look out for.
Firstly, The Wreck Post which was erected by the Coastguard. The post
simulated a ship's mast in training exercises, A rocket with a line
was fired at the post and tied to the post's top. A breeches buoy (a
pair of breeches which a person sits in and is hauled up along the
rope) was attached to the line to practice the rescue of shipwreck
victims. Secondly, a memorial near to a seat which overlooks the bay
is dedicated to the 26,380 forces men killed in the Burma War of
World War 2. This is evidently a unique memorial but I am unable to
discover why it was placed here.
Continue
the walk westwards to Towan Beach then Porthmellin Head. I noted how
blue the water looked along here.
The
most southerly point of the Roseland Peninsula is at Zone Point on St
Anthony's Head. The lighthouse here is very nearly at sea level. It
was built in 1834 and is now automatic. Prior to the lighthouse being
built ships were guided by a coal fired beacon. If you watch
children's TV you may recognise it as the one used in Fraggle Rock.
For
centuries there have been artillery batteries on St Anthony's
headland as part of the protection for Falmouth Harbour. The National
Trust now owns the buildings you can see here and there are plenty of
information boards about its history.
The
path winds around to St Anthony's and Place Manor. Do not miss the
church, a grade 2 listed building, which is usually open to look
inside. Although much was restored in Victorian times, it retains
some medieval parts including a coffin which can be seen outside.
From
St Anthony's you get the ferry over to St Mawes. It is seasonal, but
when I went the boat had broken down. Fortunately, a man with a
motorised inflatable dinghy took us over. A bit scary for a
non-swimmer like me but better than the massive walking detour to
Falmouth which is the alternative.
It
is worth spending a short while on St Mawes before completing the
ferry journey to Falmouth. Once a fishing village, it has become
an exclusive town attracting many retired people. The Clover Leaf
Castle further along the coast near St Mawes was built in 1542 to
protect Falmouth from pirates and possible invaders.
Catch
the ferry to Falmouth.
Inside St Anthony's Church; Portscatho Beach
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