Walk
141 Fowey St Austell (Cornwall)
(Second
leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)
Map:
L/R 204
Distance:
11 miles or 17 km approx
Difficulty:
moderate, demanding in parts
Terrain:
coastal and cliff path
Access:
Parking at both ends
Public
transport: Regular buses between the two towns and good rail links at
St Austell.
On
the quayside in Fowey is The King of Prussia Inn which was built in
1570 and was the home of John Rashleigh who sailed with Raleigh and
Drake in his own ship. Follow the walk alongside the river estuary
out of Fowey. Look out for the plaque marking the fact that the US
naval advanced amphibious force was based here during 1943 and 1944.
The area has a historic reputation for pirates and privateers
(privately owned ships commissioned by the government) who indulged
in smuggling on the side. In more recent times the area has been
popular with such showbiz people as Dawn French, Lenny Henry, Gloria
Hunniford, Richard Madeley and Julie Finnegan.
Just
outside of Fowey is Readymoney Cove. I have not been able to find out
why it has this unusual name . The remains of the 16th
century St Catherine's Castle built by Henry V111 and cared for by
English Heritage is here. The author Daphne Du Maurier lived in a
coach house above the beach for a few years.
A
mile further on is Polridmouth, an attractive cove. The stone cottage
with its lawn and artificial lake is said to be the inspiration for
Daphne Du Maurier's Rebecca – 'Last night I went to Manderley
again.....'.
Continue
around to Gribbin Head. The 25 metre red and white beacon 'Dayark'
was built in 1832 to aid ships entering Fowey and was built by
Trinity House. From the walk northwards from here, there are
panoramic views of the undulating coastline.
The
next point to stop is Polkerris Beach – the Cornish version of the
name means 'fortified pool'. There are cannons on the beach wall
dating form Napoleonic times. Fishing thrived here in the 17th
century but collapsed in the late 19th century due to
overfishing. If you fancy refreshment there is a cafe in the old
lifeboat station (which closed in 1922) and The Rashleigh Arms for
something stronger - a setting for the 1972 film Doomwatch.
The
path crosses Par sands and then continues along the road. There was
once a thriving clay china industry here. On the walk near Carolyn
Bay there are views to St Austell with the pyramid structures of the
Eden Project visible in the distance.
The
last coastal stop before the walk into St Austell is Charlestown, a
picturesque place used as a filming location for the TV series, The
Onedin line. The port was built in 1791 – boats loaded clay on one
side of the harbour whilst on the other they unloaded coal. It was
said that you could tell which side of the port men worked by the
colour of their faces! John Smeaton designed the harbour which was
carved from solid rock.
Continue
the walk into St Austell – or catch a bus from near Charlestown.
Photos show: view from walk between Fowey and Gribbin Head; Polkerris Beach; Charlestown.
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