Walk
178 Lynmouth (Devon) to Porlock Weir (Somerset)
(Third
leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)
Map:
L/R 180 and L/R 181
Distance:
12 miles or 20 km approx
Difficulty:
Demanding in parts, overall moderate
Terrain:
cliff paths
Access:
Parking at both ends – can be difficult to get space at Lynmouth.
Public
transport: Not viable. Takes hours with many changes. I used a taxi
from Millers, the hotel I was staying at in Porlock Weir.
Start
on the main street in Lynmouth alongside the bay. Before joining the
coastal path stroll up to the River Lyn Valley Gorge. It is worth
visiting the museum here to learn about the devastating floods of
1952 which killed 34 people and the new flood barriers built to
prevent a repeat of the disaster. You can also learn about the power
station and have a go at some interactive stuff outside which helps
to explain things. Look out for the memorial hall which marks the
site of the former lifeboat station which was washed away in the
floods.
Walk
back towards the sea where, on the left, the cliff railway to Lynton
is situated. It was very busy with long queues when I went. The
railway was opened in 1890 and, when built, was the steepest railway
in the world – a gradient steeper than 1 in 2. It works using the
weight of the water in the downward car to power the upward moving
one at the same time. In its early days it carried freight and even
cars.
Before
crossing on to the main coastal path take a while to admire the
attractive bay. Painters and poets have visited, including Southey
who likened it to a Swiss village and Gainsborough who described it
as the most delightful place for a landscape painter this country can
boast. Before becoming a visitor attraction Lynmouth was a port
dealing in coal and limestone from South Wales.
It
is a long steady climb out of Lynmouth giving good views of the sea.
When the path levels out the outstanding landmark is Countisbury
Church, dedicated to St John the Baptist and built in the 18/19th
centuries. It is on the site of an earlier church.
The
views continue to Forleand Point – make the most of them as the
path goes through woodland from this point with only occasional
glimpses of the sea. This headland is the most northerly point of
Devon and is owned by the National Trust. A separate path goes off to
the lighthouse which was built in 1900 and became automated in 1994.
The keeper's cottage is now a holiday home.
The
walk through the woodland is not without interest. Look out for fungi
(I spotted bright red spotted ones, perhaps best not to touch), some
rather strange dilapidated graves near to the path and pleasant
waterfalls.
After
a few miles of walking, during which the Devon/Somerset border is
crossed, you arrive at the isolated Culbone Church. It is well worth
stopping here to look inside what is claimed to be the smallest
parish church still used for services in England. (35 feet x 12 feet
– seats 33 people). It was built in the 12th century and
is dedicated to St Bueno, a Welsh saint. Information in the church
will tell you about some of the old parts including a few from Saxon
times which were part of an even older church that once stood here.
The
walk finishes at Porlock Weir, another attractive old seaside place.
It was once a bustling port sending tar, charcoal and pit props to
South Wales. There are many old listed cottages including the
thatched Bottom Ship pub. Coleridge once stayed in Porlock (the main
village is a mile or so up the road) and composed some of The Ancient
Mariner here. The back of the coastal path comes around the back of
Millers, a 200 year old building now a hotel. It is full of antiques
and curios. I know because I stayed there. I believe this is the same
Miller who publishes antique guides.
Photos show: Lynmouth Bay; red mushrooms on the woodland walk; Culbone Church; The Bottom Ship Pub at Porlock Weir.
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