Walk
176 Ilfracombe to Coombe Martin (Devon)
(Third
leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)
Map:
L/R 180
Distance:
6 miles or 11 km approx
Difficulty:
Lots of ups and downs but quite a short walk
Terrain:
road and coastal path
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: 301 bus runs between the two places every hour.
Follow
the coastal path to Hillsborough which is an area of common land away
from the sea. It is a nature reserve and is on the site of two iron
age forts. In Victorian times it was used for army practice.
From
here the path works its way on to Beacon Point where there are good
views back to Ilfracombe. It is only a short walk to Hele Bay. This
was the site of the Hele Bay gas works which was once a major
employer in the area. Production started in 1905 and finished in
1963. Coal would be brought in by sea to help make the gas. Holiday
parks and camp sites have been built here in later years. Look out
for the restored Hele Corn Mill which has been here since 1525 and is
powered by water. A mile offshore are Buggy Pits where spectacular
waves on the reefs are caused by winds blowing against the tide.
This
part of the walk is quite rugged and passes near Rillage Point and
Samson's Bay- areas popular with bird watchers. Then the path goes
inland alongside Water Mouth. The rocks here have smugglers tunnels
and caves and sandy beach at the end of the mouth. Trials for
Operation Pluto were carried out here in World War 2. As a result,
the Pluto oil pipeline was laid across the English Channel to supply
allied invasion forces with fuel.
Alongside
the beach at the end of Water Mouth is Watermouth Castle and family
theme park. The mock Gothic castle was built in 1825 and, I was told,
includes smuggler tunnels.
The
walk ends at the very attractive coastal village of Coombe Martin.
The village dates back to Saxon times and is mentioned in the
Domesday Book. It has probably the second longest main/high street of
of any village in England, approx 2 miles. Until the end of the 19th
century horses, carts and pack ponies were used to carry goods from
the ships in the harbour. Mining for silver was once very important
and evidence of silver mines and lime-kilns can still be seen.
The
museum in Coombe Martin is excellent with people very happy to
interest you in the exhibits. One of the things I learnt about was an
annual weekend procession concerning a legend about the Earl of
Tyrone who fled Ireland and was shipwrecked here in 1607. The
procession was actually banned in 1837 due to drunken behaviour but
was reinstated in 1970. This reputedly loud event includes a hobby
horse, a fool, grenadiers, drummers, music and dancers. The museum
has more information.
There
are some interesting buildings in the village. These include the
church with the unusual name of St Peter ad Vincula (St Peter in
Chains) which rises in four stages to 99 feet and has a Norman nave.
It is a walk inland up the main street. Near here is The Pack of
Cards pub which was built by a man to celebrate his large win in a
card game. It has 4 storeys, 13 doors on each floor and 52 windows
thus representing a pack of cards. It is a good place for a pint and
meal as well. Look out for shops selling local strawberries which,
during the season, are much sought after.
Photos show: the beach at Coombe Martin; Water Mouth looking towards the castle.
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