Walk
172 Westward Ho! To Bideford (Devon)
(Third
leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)
Map:
L/R 180
Distance:
8 miles or 14 km approx
Difficulty:
quite easy
Terrain:
coastal path and road
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: Frequent buses between Bideford and Westward Ho!
Follow
the promenade out
of Westward Ho!
and then the track alongside Northiam Country Park and golf course.
Much of the country park is salt marsh some of which is unaffected by
tides allowing sheep and horses to graze. Cockles, mussels and clams
attract wading birds including curlews, oyster catchers and egrets.
Brent geese also spend the winter here. The pebble ridge which
extends along this bit of coastline has been caused naturally by the
waves. Out at sea are 22 turbines belonging to the Fullabrook Wind
Farm.
Follow
the path around the coast alongside where the River Taw and River
Torridge meet and on to Appledore. There is a pleasant promenade here
which faces the bank opposite. Appledore has always been a sea faring
place, for example in 1580 15 vessels and 115 mariners were
based here.
Local salmon fishermen have also
landed
their catches for many years. The bed of the estuary is home to some
animals with special features. These include the tiny pea crab that
lives inside mussel shells and various worms and snails.
On
the way out of Appledore is a quay and dry dock. The latter was big
enough to hold two large vessels and was badly needed in Napoleonic
times to build and repair ships. Associated
trades such as chandlery and sail and rope making helped to make the
village very prosperous. It
was also used in World War 2 when landing craft, motor gunboats and
mine sweepers were needed.
Follow
the walk down the River Torridge, under the A39 bridge and into
Bideford. As you walk in, look out for the Charles Kingsely statue
marking his association with the area especially Westward Ho! and
Clovelly. The main street into the town is also
the quayside.
In the 16th
century, during the time of local man Sir Richard Greville, Bideford
was Britain's third port. He mounted his expedition to the Americas
from here and most of his crewmen were from Bideford. On one
expedition, to North America he brought home a red Indian servant
whom he christened Raleigh. The servant died after a year and is
buried in Bideford churchyard.
Further
along the quay is the 16th
century Kings Arms, the only pub left along the quayside. With its
many original beams, this is a good place to break for refreshments.
Before
leaving Bideford, do not miss the sombre plaque on the side of the
town hall. 'In
memory of Temperance Lloyd, Susannah Edwards and Mary Trembles all of
Bideford hanged in 1682, the last to be executed in England for the
crime of witchcraft'.
Photos: Appledore; The Kings Arms, Bideford.
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