Walk
167 Crackington Haven to Bude (Cornwall)
(Third
leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)
Map:
L/R 190
Distance:
11 miles or 18km
Difficulty:
Demanding up to Widemouth Bay, relatively easy after this
Terrain:
mainly coastal path, some road/dunes
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: 595 bus runs between the two places every couple of hours.
Although
the first half of this walk is demanding with some steep climbs, the first part out of Crackington Haven up to the 430 foot high Pencannow Point
is on a reasonable incline. The views at the top are worth a pause to
stand and stare.
Continue
on to Cleave Strand where there are more good views. Near here a
wooden National Trust gate marked 'Cleave' has a plaque which states
that it was given in memory of Bob and Joan White of Kenya and
Yorkshire. I have found no other information about this.
After
steep climbs, the path cuts inland past an old triangulation point
near Dizzard and an oak wood. Further along is Millook and another
steep climb before the path follows the road down to Widemouth Sand.
The geological society voted this stretch of coast as one of the top
ten sites for folding and faulting rocks.
Widemouth
Bay, as you may expect, is a wide sandy stretch popular with surfers
and swimmers. The area is steeped in smuggling history with the
various coves playing a big part in this. This is also the site of
many submarine cables which link the UK with other parts of the
world.
The
walk continues along the sand up to Phillip's Point Nature Reserve
owned by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust and features rare plants and
grey seals. There are spectacular views including some towards Bude
and beyond.
The
path continues to Compass Point with its ornamental tower once used
as a coastguard lookout. A view of the River Bude estuary and beaches
can be enjoyed, and on my visit, there were echoing loudspeaker
warnings telling swimmers and surfers about the dangers of the sudden
tides. The Australians evidently call this stretch 'Bondi of Britain'.
In the 18th century the sands and seaweed were collected
by farmers for spreading on their fields.
Follow
the path down to the sands and to the end of Bude Canal which is
marked by a sea lock - this is still in working order. The canal was
built in the 1820s with the original intention of taking the sea
going craft all the way to Launceston 35 miles away. It is only
navigable for 2 miles now. The boats were pulled up by chains and
steam power, then the cargo had to be transferred from barges. Look
out for the sand rails where tracks were laid to transport sand on to
the canal barges.
Photos show: Widemouth Bay; Bude Haven and beyond looking northwards; Bude Canal and sea lock.
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