Walk
164 Rock to Port Issac (Cornwall)
(Third
leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)
Map:
L/R 200
Distance:
10 miles or 15 km approx
Difficulty:
Demanding with some very challenging sections towards the end –
allow a full day of walking.
Terrain:
coastal path
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: There is a frequent passenger ferry from Padstow to to
Rock. Bus 584 runs to and from Port Issac it takes about half an hour
but runs only 4 times a day. With more council cuts ever threatening
its best to check with Traveline before going this way.
The
walk starts at Rock where you can park at the bottom of the hill or
walk down to get a good view across the River Camel to Padstow. The
sand and rock dunes near here are sites of special scientific
interest because of the geology (especially the slate) and the flora.
Hundreds of years ago the village was known as Black Tor (now the
name of the ferry to Padstow) and had become known as Black Rock in
the 18th century. Before starting the walk, the riverside
cafe, restaurant and pub are all worth a visit if you have time.
These amenities help to give the place its nickname of 'Chelsea on
Sea' as it apparently attracts affluent holidaymakers.
Rather
than follow the coastal path around Brea Hill take a detour to St
Enodoc Church. Careful to follow the markers that take you around the
golf course not across it! The 12th century church is
supposed to be the site of where the saint lived as a hermit. You can
look inside the tiny church if it is open. It is not difficult to
imagine that it was once engulfed by sand. To the right of the
entrance path is the grave of John Betjeman, the famous poet who
lived nearby. I was told that readings of his poems take place near
here every year.
Follow
the path northwards out of the golf course and back on to the coastal
path. Daymer Bay has a sandy beach popular with wind and kite
surfers. Continue alongside the Greenaway to Hayle Bay and
Polzeath. This is yet another Cornish beach popular with surfers.
Dolphins are often spotted in the bay and it is a good area for corn
buntings and puffins. For those who were Enid Blyton fans in their
childhood, The Famous Five fictitiously spent holidays at Polzeath.
The
walk continues on to the rugged Pentire Point with the small island
of Newland about a mile away. The war poet Laurence Binyon wrote the
poem 'For the Fallen' while sitting on the cliffs near here. There
are very good views eastwards from Rumpus Point. A separate path
leads to the sight of some old lead mines and there is evidence of an
iron age fort nearby.
About
a mile away is a cove near Portreath (which means sandy cove). This
area is known for tin streaming, which was a way of extracting tin
from the rocks. A cholera outbreak in 1878 caused much of the mining
activities here to diminish. The walk becomes very demanding with
steep climbs. There are some stunning geological views to enjoy
before reaching Port Quinn (see photos). Just before descending into
Port Quinn you cannot miss Doyden Castle which was built by a local
businessman as a retreat in 1830 – partying and gambling were said
to be common events. The building has featured in the BBC series
Poldark and in the ITV series Doc Martin as well.
Port
Quinn is a quiet sheltered port with an attractive outlook. In
medieval times boats often sailed here to trade with Wales in coal,
manure and lead. In the nineteenth century the village was abandoned
twice. Once when the pilchard fishing failed and on another when all
of the men of the village drowned when out fishing. The women
suffered great hardship and were forced to leave.
The
walk continues into Port Issac. As you enter you can spot 'Doc
Martin's house' to the right of the paved slope. More about the
village in the next walk.
Photos show: John Betjeman's grave at St Enodoc; two of geological features near Portreath; Port Quinn.
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