Walk 168 Bude to Morwenstow (Cornwall)

Walk 168 Bude to Morwenstow (Cornwall)

(Third leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)

Map: L/R 190

Distance: 8 miles or 12km

Difficulty: Demanding and tiring

Terrain: Coastal path

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: Difficult. Bus 216 once a day leaves Crosstown near Morwenstow at 4:22 for Bude. Or to walk the other way round 216 bus leaves at 9:30 from Bude to Crosstown. As always, check with Traveline.

Start the walk in the centre of Bude. Bude Castle (built in 1850) contains a heritage centre and art gallery both of which are worth a visit. The castle, which stands in public gardens, was once the home of Sir Goldsworthy Gurney the inventor of the steam carriage. He also enlightened lighthouses, the House of Commons and his own house by inventing a system of prisms and mirrors. In 2000 Gurney and his lights were commemorated by the colourful cone in the Castle Gardens which is lit up internally at night. If you are around the town in the evening you could try the Bencoolen Inn whose walls tell the story of the famous local shipwreck of the same name. Good for a beer and meal as well.

Follow the coastal path out of Bude to Crooklets Beach. There is a sandy beach here popular with surfers. Continue to Maer Down and Northcott Mouth and beach. The nature reserve near here is an important resting and feeding site for migratory birds blown in by gales from the Atlantic. On the land side is the MOD Tracking Station at Cleave Camp.

Further along is Sandymouth, a highly picturesque setting especially when the tide is out and sands exposed - the back ground of the twisted rocks make a great contrast. The jagged rocks on Warren Gutter beach provide another good photo opportunity. Duckpool near the hamlet of Coombe is a popular spot for surfers. About a mile further along is Stanbury Mouth with yet another surfing beach and the added attraction that seals can sometimes be seen playing in the water.

Do not miss Hawker's Hut on the cliffs at Morwenstow which is maintained by the National Trust. It can be accessed easily by a dedicated path. This was where local parson Robert Stephen Hawker much of his time meditating, writing poetry and keeping a lookout for shipwrecks. He was always alert to providing a Christian burial for those washed up from shipwrecks. Hawker was vicar at Morwenstow from 1834 to 1874 and some sources (including the reliable Andrew McCloy in his Coastwalk book) say he was rather eccentric, striding around in Wellington Boots, fishermen's jumpers hung with holy medals and a purple overcoat. At times he allegedly dressed as a mermaid, excommunicated one of his ten cats for catching a mouse on a Sunday and occasionally smoked opium in his pipe. The latter might explain the rest! On a more sober note, he is the composer of the famous, 'Song of the Western Men'.

Take the path into the village of Morwenstow and past the part-Norman church where Hawker was vicar. The vicarage at the side of the church was built by him. Maybe, if it is open, pop in and see if someone has more information on this interesting character.

Photos show: Gurney 'light' memorial, Bude; Hawker's Hut, Morwenstow; Morwenstow Church.

Walk 167 Crackington Haven to Bude (Cornwall)

Walk 167 Crackington Haven to Bude (Cornwall)

(Third leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)

Map: L/R 190

Distance: 11 miles or 18km

Difficulty: Demanding up to Widemouth Bay, relatively easy after this

Terrain: mainly coastal path, some road/dunes

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: 595 bus runs between the two places every couple of hours.

Although the first half of this walk is demanding with some steep climbs, the first part out of Crackington Haven up to the 430 foot high Pencannow Point is on a reasonable incline. The views at the top are worth a pause to stand and stare.

Continue on to Cleave Strand where there are more good views. Near here a wooden National Trust gate marked 'Cleave' has a plaque which states that it was given in memory of Bob and Joan White of Kenya and Yorkshire. I have found no other information about this.

After steep climbs, the path cuts inland past an old triangulation point near Dizzard and an oak wood. Further along is Millook and another steep climb before the path follows the road down to Widemouth Sand. The geological society voted this stretch of coast as one of the top ten sites for folding and faulting rocks.

Widemouth Bay, as you may expect, is a wide sandy stretch popular with surfers and swimmers. The area is steeped in smuggling history with the various coves playing a big part in this. This is also the site of many submarine cables which link the UK with other parts of the world.

The walk continues along the sand up to Phillip's Point Nature Reserve owned by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust and features rare plants and grey seals. There are spectacular views including some towards Bude and beyond.

The path continues to Compass Point with its ornamental tower once used as a coastguard lookout. A view of the River Bude estuary and beaches can be enjoyed, and on my visit, there were echoing loudspeaker warnings telling swimmers and surfers about the dangers of the sudden tides. The Australians evidently call this stretch 'Bondi of Britain'. In the 18^th century the sands and seaweed were collected by farmers for spreading on their fields.

Follow the path down to the sands and to the end of Bude Canal which is marked by a sea lock - this is still in working order. The canal was built in the 1820s with the original intention of taking the sea going craft all the way to Launceston 35 miles away. It is only navigable for 2 miles now. The boats were pulled up by chains and steam power, then the cargo had to be transferred from barges. Look out for the sand rails where tracks were laid to transport sand on to the canal barges.

Bude is a very pleasant place. More about it in the next walk.

Photos show: Widemouth Bay; Bude Haven and beyond looking northwards; Bude Canal and sea lock.

Walk 166 Tintagel to Crackington Haven (Cornwall)

Walk 166 Tintagel to Crackington Haven (Cornwall)

(Third leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)

Map: L/R 200 and L/R 190

Distance: 12 miles or 20km

Difficulty: Demanding.

Terrain: coastal path, some road out of Tintagel

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: 595 bus runs between the two places every couple of hours.

Before leaving Tintagel there are at least two places to visit. Firstly, The Visitors Centre next to the car park gives a good background to the history of the area. It gives some sensible and factual balance to the King Arthur industry! The Old Post Office in the main street is owned by the National Trust. It was built in the 14^th century as a yeoman's before becoming a post office briefly in the nineteenth century. Worth a look inside if you have time.

Go down the hill and past the old mine office buildings, one of which is now a cafe. Pegs, which are remnants of the old lead mine, can still be seen in nearby rocks. Follow the path to the right and round to Bossiney Haven. The nearby town of Bossiney was of some significance in the past. In the 16^th century it had its own mayor and two MPs, one of whom was Sir Francis Drake.

The path passes through Rock Valley with some steep climbing on the far side. Bronze age carvings have been found in rocks near here. The area is also a habitat for the rare chough - a black red beaked bird said to be the reincarnation of King Arthur. I looked but saw none.

Looking back westwards are the two similar looking rocks called The Sisters. Follow the path for a couple of miles. You will know when you are close to Boscastle when a white square turreted 'look-out building' appears on top of a hill. Follow the path down into Boscastle. This is a good place to stop for refreshments and a quick look around.

The attractive harbour and village have been in the news over recent years because of devastating floods. Lots of damage but thankfully few injuries. The name of the village comes from a motte and bailey fortress of which there are just remains now. The two stone harbour walls were built in the late 1500s. Many years ago rowing boats known as hobblers used to tow small ships into the harbour. The novelist Thomas Hardy was a frequent visitor here. A museum of witchcraft is one of the attractions along the quayside.

Leave Boscastle and follow the path around to Pentargon with its 250 ft waterfall which cascades into a cave. Next up are Beeny Cliffs, I assumed that the famous poem by Thomas Hardy was set here but research seems to suggest that the cliff in question overlooks the British Channel which of course this does not (Atlantic Ocean). Maybe someone has this wrong? There are minor paths marked on the map but it is safer to stick to the main coastal path for the next couple of miles to High Cliff.

This place does what it says on the tin. It is Cornwall's highest cliff at 223 metres and I would not recommend walking along this stretch in a high wind.

A bit further along are The Strangles which are jagged rocks and the graveyard of many sailing ships – in the 1820s alone 23 vessels were wrecked here. From Little Strand it is a relatively easy walk into Crackington Haven. With two cafes and a pub this is a good place to stop. Up to the 19^th century it was a small port which imported limestone and coal and exported slate. The village was badly damaged by floods in 2004.

Photos show: Rocky Valley; Boscastle; Crackington Haven.

Walk 165 Port Issac to Tintagel (Cornwall)

Walk 165 Port Issac to Tintagel (Cornwall)

(Third leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)

Map: L/R 200

Distance: 11 miles or 18km

Difficulty: Another demanding and challenging days walking, allow plenty of time.

Terrain: coastal path

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: Difficult and time consuming as buses involve one or two changes (if travelling between the two places). Good bus links with surrounding areas from Tintagel.

The start is at the centre of Port Issac. Although this picturesque old fishing village has become a bit of a Doc Martin 'theme park' (attracting many visitors to see the filming locations) there is still plenty to enjoy in its own right. The muddled, attractive and often very narrow streets are worth spending a little while exploring. One was once known as Squeezee-ee-Belly Alley and was in the Guinness Book of Records as the narrowest public thoroughfare in the world. Look out for the 'Outlaws' building with its white boarded frontage – this is listed and one of the oldest in the village. Port Issac means 'corn port' indicating a trade in this cereal from the surrounding district. The village centre dates from the 18^th/19^th centuries when it was tied to local fishing and trade.

The harbour at Port Issac has a pier constructed in Tudor times in addition to a more recently added sea wall. Look out for the lifeboat station near the main tourist walk. The 24 hour-a-day life boat service was originally established in 1869 and, as recently as 2011, received gallantry medals for a very daring rescue.

A short walk to the east out of Port Issac is Port Gaverne. Near this point, in the 19^th century, women handled slate, passing it from hand to hand into the holds of sailing ships. Coal was also imported here.

The next part of the walk involves strenuous climbs all the way to Trebarwith Strand and beyond to Tintagel. This is a very remote walk but at least you should be able to get refreshments at Trebarwith Strand. The rugged coast at Trebarwith looks out to Gull Rock. The road down to the sea was originally built by farmers so they could collect sand to put on their fields.

Continue the walk around Penhallic Point and on to Tintagel. The path passes over old slate mines before reaching Tintagel Head. If you have enough energy left, it is worth crossing the bridge to The Island and the remains of Tintagel Castle. The castle was built by Reginald, Earl of Cornwall the illegitimate son of Henry 1 in the 1230s and then owned by the Black Prince, the first duke of Cornwall, who used it as a prison. Over the years it decayed and became derelict. Of course, its international fame revolves around the legend that The Island was the birthplace of King Arthur. There are traces of a fifth century monastery nearby.

The walk back into Tintagel is a steep one – most unwelcome after a challenging day's walk.

Photos show: Port Issac, the old Tudor Pier and The Sea wall; Trebarwith Strand; The Island and bridge to castle, Tintagel.

Walk 164 Rock to Port Issac (Cornwall)

Walk 164 Rock to Port Issac (Cornwall)

(Third leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)

Map: L/R 200

Distance: 10 miles or 15 km approx

Difficulty: Demanding with some very challenging sections towards the end – allow a full day of walking.

Terrain: coastal path

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: There is a frequent passenger ferry from Padstow to to Rock. Bus 584 runs to and from Port Issac it takes about half an hour but runs only 4 times a day. With more council cuts ever threatening its best to check with Traveline before going this way.

The walk starts at Rock where you can park at the bottom of the hill or walk down to get a good view across the River Camel to Padstow. The sand and rock dunes near here are sites of special scientific interest because of the geology (especially the slate) and the flora. Hundreds of years ago the village was known as Black Tor (now the name of the ferry to Padstow) and had become known as Black Rock in the 18^th century. Before starting the walk, the riverside cafe, restaurant and pub are all worth a visit if you have time. These amenities help to give the place its nickname of 'Chelsea on Sea' as it apparently attracts affluent holidaymakers.

Rather than follow the coastal path around Brea Hill take a detour to St Enodoc Church. Careful to follow the markers that take you around the golf course not across it! The 12^th century church is supposed to be the site of where the saint lived as a hermit. You can look inside the tiny church if it is open. It is not difficult to imagine that it was once engulfed by sand. To the right of the entrance path is the grave of John Betjeman, the famous poet who lived nearby. I was told that readings of his poems take place near here every year.

Follow the path northwards out of the golf course and back on to the coastal path. Daymer Bay has a sandy beach popular with wind and kite surfers. Continue alongside the Greenaway to Hayle Bay and Polzeath. This is yet another Cornish beach popular with surfers. Dolphins are often spotted in the bay and it is a good area for corn buntings and puffins. For those who were Enid Blyton fans in their childhood, The Famous Five fictitiously spent holidays at Polzeath.

The walk continues on to the rugged Pentire Point with the small island of Newland about a mile away. The war poet Laurence Binyon wrote the poem 'For the Fallen' while sitting on the cliffs near here. There are very good views eastwards from Rumpus Point. A separate path leads to the sight of some old lead mines and there is evidence of an iron age fort nearby.

About a mile away is a cove near Portreath (which means sandy cove). This area is known for tin streaming, which was a way of extracting tin from the rocks. A cholera outbreak in 1878 caused much of the mining activities here to diminish. The walk becomes very demanding with steep climbs. There are some stunning geological views to enjoy before reaching Port Quinn (see photos). Just before descending into Port Quinn you cannot miss Doyden Castle which was built by a local businessman as a retreat in 1830 – partying and gambling were said to be common events. The building has featured in the BBC series Poldark and in the ITV series Doc Martin as well.

Port Quinn is a quiet sheltered port with an attractive outlook. In medieval times boats often sailed here to trade with Wales in coal, manure and lead. In the nineteenth century the village was abandoned twice. Once when the pilchard fishing failed and on another when all of the men of the village drowned when out fishing. The women suffered great hardship and were forced to leave.

The walk continues into Port Issac. As you enter you can spot 'Doc Martin's house' to the right of the paved slope. More about the village in the next walk.

Photos show: John Betjeman's grave at St Enodoc; two of geological features near Portreath; Port Quinn.

Walk 163 Constantine Bay to Padstow (Cornwall)

Walk 163 Constantine Bay to Padstow (Cornwall)

(Third leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)

Map: L/R 200

Distance: 12 miles or 18 km approx

Difficulty: Moderate overall

Terrain: coastal path and some road at the end

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: 56 bus runs between the two destinations every 90 minutes or so.

Follow the path out of Constantine Bay past Booby's Bay (named after a seabird of the same name and where a wreck can be seen on the beach at low tide, maybe a German steam ship) and to Trevose Head and the oddly named Stinking Cove.

The lighthouse on the rocks of the NW corner of the headland was built in 1847 and originally had an oil light. It was automated in in 1995 to include an electronic fog detector and signal. The former keeper's cottage is now holiday accommodation. This is the most rugged part of the walk.

Further round is Mother Ivey's Bay. Mother Ivey was a witch in the sixteenth century who after a dispute put a curse on a field. There have been mishaps over the years and as late as the 1970s there were two deaths in the field which has resulted in the field being left fallow. We don't believe in such things now ...or do we?

At Harlyn Bay an Iron Age cemetery and Bronze Age burial mound have been discovered. The seaside village of Trevone is not far. This is an area of outstanding natural but beware of the blow hole (naturally made) on the cliffs above the beach!

Follow the path around for a few miles to the estuary of the River Camel and Stepper Point. The sandbar going across to the opposite bank of the river is called the Doom Bar because of its danger to ships. Local wreckers once misled ships on to it, plundering the vessels and killing the crews. Doom Bar is also a nice local ale and seems to be available nationally from The Rock Brewery. The tower near here is called The Daymark. This listed building from the nineteenth century served as a navigational aid during daylight hours.

Continue the pleasant walk into Padstow past the Celtic cross memorial which commemorates those lost in both world wars. A bit further down is the ferry over to Rock which saves a very long walk inland for the next stage of the coastwalk.

Padstow can be very busy indeed with, what seemed to me, a large number of dogs. There are several things to look out for: on the South Quay is the 16^th century courthouse where Walter Raleigh presided when he was Warden of Cornwall; the harbour which has been around since medieval times and was a major pilchard fishing centre; the narrow attractive streets (pity about the yellow lines); the chef Rick Stein's outlets including fish and chips and pasties (there are several other shops selling these with every imaginable filling); the National Lobster Hatchery and visitors' centre – here there is global expertise on lobsters with particular concern for conservation of the species which have been depleted world wide.

The 'obby 'oss (think I've got that right) festival is celebrated every Mayday in Padstow. It is claimed to include the oldest fertility dance in the country where men dance around the town in fierce masks.

Photos: Harlyn Bay looking towards Trevose Head; one of the narrow streets in Padstow.

Walk 162 Mawgan Porth to Constantine Bay (Cornwall)

Walk 162 Mawgan Porth to Constantine Bay (Cornwall)

(Third leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)

Map: L/R 200

Distance: 9 miles or 14 km approx

Difficulty: Moderate

Terrain: coastal path and some road

Access: Parking at both ends.

Public transport: 56 bus goes between Mawgan Porth and Constantine Bay every 90 minutes or so.

Follow the path northwards out of Mawgan Porth past the sands of Trenance and on to Bedruthan Steps. These are a set of Granite stacks which have claimed many ships over the years. Bedruthan was a legendary giant fabled for using the steps as a causeway. (This story may have been invented by the Victorians).There are also remains of Redcliffe castle, an old Iron Age defence. Look out for Queen Bess Rock on the coast north of the steps. It is said to have the profile of Queen Elizabeth 1^st. Couldn't see it myself but then I'm useless with faces.

The walk continues around Park Head and on to Porthcothan. The land around here is protected because of the presence of rare birds so notices ask you to keep to the path. D H Lawrence was once a resident of Porthcothan.

Treyarnon Bay has a surfing beach but the tide can be very dangerous, it comes in quickly and, in some parts, can leave you cut off. Noticeable, are the great many cliff top benches dedicated to relatives and locals.

The walk finishes at Constantine Bay - it is a half mile walk or so into the village and buses/amenities. The area is named after St Constantine, a 6^th century Cornish saint. The sand dunes are crumbling due to the invasion of plants such as brambles and erosion caused by visitors and the weather. I have read that it was a popular holiday location of Margaret Thatcher and currently of David Cameron. I leave you to judge whether this makes it more or less attractive to visit!

Photos show: Bedruthan Steps; Constantine Bay beach.