Walk 128 Torquay to
Brixham (Devon)
(Second leg of
English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)
Map: L/R 202
Distance: 11 miles or 16 km approx
Difficulty: moderate
Terrain: road, pavement and coastal path
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: 12 bus from Torquay Harbour goes frequently
between the two towns.
Follow the seafront in Torquay to The Princes Pier.
This was built between 1890-1906 and once had an entertainment complex at the
end. Torquay looks out on to Tor Bay – the British fleet was anchored here
during the war with France. Officers wives and families came to live in the
town and hastened its development.
I found Torquay to be a most welcoming place even though
holiday makers are known in these parts as ‘grockles’ ( not sure exactly what
it means but it doesn’t sound too complimentary). Look out for the palm trees
flourishing here helping to give the area the title ‘The English Riviera’.
Torquay Pavilion, once called The Palace of Pleasures, is
near the attractive promenade gardens. Look out for the memorial of Agatha
Christie – the museum further back in the town is well worth a visit if you
want to find out more about her strong connection with Torquay. Follow the walk
around to Torre Abbey Sands then Corlyn’s Beach. Torre Abbey, which is back
from the seafront, is a mainly 18th century house with art gallery
and museum. It also has a 14th century gatehouse and 12th
century barn where Spanish Armada prisoners were locked up.
Take a time to look back at the main part of Torquay. The
white buildings have been likened to the layers of a wedding cake. On the way
out of Torquay is a small beach called Institute Beach but I can’t find an
explanation for this name. The walk from here is on the main road before
rejoining the beach road after Hollicombe.
Continue round to the beach huts at Preston Sands and a view
to Paignton ahead. As you approach Paignton Sands – the pink sands appear to
turn redder as the tide comes in. Paignton developed quickly as a resort when
the Torbay and Dartmouth railway opened to passengers in 1859. There is more
about this steam railway, now run by volunteers, in the next walk.
Alongside the promenade at Paignton is a huge grassed area
providing a great space for people when the tide comes in. On the way out of
Paignton is a colourful terrace of holiday accommodation. To the south of
Paignton is the 780 ft. long pier built in 1879. The pavilion at the end was
famous for performing Gilbert and Sullivan with the original D’Oyly Carte Company.
The pier head was used as a defence during the Second World War. It was revived
in 1980 and has thrived since then.
Look out for the impressive Paignton Club at the end of the
promenade. This building with its Doric columns was built as a Gentleman’s Club
in 1884. Women play more of a part these days! Continue the walk around to
Paignton Harbour. Established in the 18th century this was once a
thriving fishing port. Now there is a mixture of uses including leisure and
fishing trips. The viewing platform which overlooks the harbour is a good place
for a rest.
Walking up and out of Paignton look out for Oldbury Mansion,
this was built by the sewing machine king, Issac Singer – the building is said
to be modelled on Versailles. Further round is Fairy Cove which is a popular
little bay with families. Follow the walk around Roundham Head and down to
Goodrington Sands. The coastline here alternates between bay and headland. This
is mainly because of the difference between hard Devonian limestone resistant
to the sea and the softer red sandstone which erodes easily.
The path around Saltern Cove has been diverted to follow the
rail line – if you are lucky a steam engine may appear. The walk from here
around Broadsands and Elberry Cove is pleasant enough. Fishcombe Cove is a
secluded place accessible only by a steep path and is just outside Brixham. On
the way from here into Brixham I was stopped by a man who wanted me to visit
his free tank museum. I felt a bit guilty about saying no but needed to catch a
bus back from Brixham.
Brixham is the final part of Torbay. Look out for the statue
of William of Orange who landed here in 1688 to begin The Glorious Revolution.
There are many, many boats in the harbour reflecting the fact that Brixham was
the country’s leading fishery in the 1880s. More about Brixham in the next walk.
Photos show promenade gardens, Torquay; Institute Beach, Paignton; The Paignton Club; Fishcombe Cove near Brixham
OldWAY Mansion!
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