Walk 127 Teignmouth
to Torquay (Devon)
(Second leg of
English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)
Map: L/R 192/202
Distance: 14 miles or 20 km approx
Difficulty: moderate, challenging in parts – allow all
day to complete.
Terrain: mainly cliff coastal path
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Rail links at Torquay and Teignmouth. Check the Shaldon Ferry is running.
Start in Teignmouth and walk to take the Shaldon Ferry. This
small ferry runs all year, subject to weather conditions, and is reckoned to be
the oldest working ferry in the country.
On arrival on the beach at Shaldon look back for a good view
of Teignmouth and upstream to the Shaldon road bridge. Follow the road, then
the footpath, to The Ness which is a wooded headland planted to celebrate Queen
Victoria’s silver jubilee in 1863. On this walk there are a number of old World
War 2 defences. At the top of The Ness are panoramic views back up the coast
and inland.
The path from here to Oddicombe (passing Maidencombe and
Watcombe Head) is a bit of an upper and downer and I found it rather tiring. Quite
a bit of the walk is away from views of the coast which is a bit disappointing.
Look out for Oddicombe Beach with its red cliff face and the
funicular railway that runs from beach to cliff top. This was built in 1926 and
is one of 16 funicular railways still operating in the UK. They are cable
operated with the descending and ascending vehicles counterbalancing each
other.
The next feature is Babbacombe Harbour, a picturesque spot
which has a well known model village set back from the cliff top. Look out for the waterfall which flows down to beach level.
A short walk further along and just on the north of Torquay
is Anstey’s Cove. It has a sheltered beach with blue water (on the day I went
this was quite distinctive). It is celebrated in verse within the poem ‘Beautiful
Torquay’. Unfortunately, it was written by William McGonagall reckoned by many
to be the worst poet in the English language.
Soon, past Anstey’s Cove, is Black Head; to the south Hope’s Nose
is visible across the bay. The rocky limestone landscape here was created by
volcanic activity millions of years ago – the formations and layers can be
clearly seen. Geological evidence shows that this area used to be 10 degrees
south of the equator. The mind boggles.
After walking round Hopes Nose, Thatcher’s Rock becomes
visible. It has a raised beach 8 metres above today’s sea level. It was formed
in the ice age.
About a mile further along is Meadfoot Beach. This is known
as the ‘local’s’ beach as it is away from the busy main beaches of Torquay. Overlooking
the shingle beach and 6 acres of landscaped grounds is The Osborne Hotel which
takes up the centre part of the Regency Crescent. It was completed in 1848 and
has 32 luxury bedrooms.
Soon after Daddyhole Cove is the start of the Rock End Walk
leading into Torquay. It follows a limestone wall towards a castellated summer
house. This is all that remains of the estate of Rock End, a large Victorian
House.
Photos show: Shaldon Ferry; Shaldon Beach; The Ness at Shaldon; Oddicombe Beach; Waterfall at Babbacombe beach; Anstey's Cove
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