Walk 89 Brighton to Worthing

Walk   89   Brighton to Worthing (West Sussex)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 198

Distance: 11 miles or 17km.
Difficulty: Easy
Terrain: Paths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Several buses and a rail link.

The walk begins at The Palace Pier on Brighton seafront.

Brighton was once a village called Brighthelmstone dating back before the Domesday Book was written. A Dr Russell from Lewes promoted the resort when he published his 1750 book about drinking seawater and bathing as cures for diseases of the glands. It also became the place to be when it gained the patronage of the Prince Regent, later to become George 1V. A visit to the Brighton Pavilion, which he had built, is a must. If you enjoy small chic shops The Lanes is the place to go. Brighton became a city in 2000 as part of the centenary celebrations.

Walking westwards along the promenade the rather sad site of the wrecked West Pier dominates the sea view. This was built in 1866 and was closed in 1975 and then virtually destroyed by two fires in 2003. Discussions have been going on about redevelopment but it seems unlikely that anything will happen.

Look out for the impressive Grand Hotel. This became infamous for a while in the 1980s when the IRA exploded a bomb during the Conservative Party conference causing death and injury.

Several Regency squares are set back from the sea both in Brighton and a bit further along in Hove. Here large lawns separate the beach from the road. Further along is a lagoon with small sailing boots.

The walk between here and Shoreham is not great; a lot of light industry and main road with much of the seafront not visible. At Southwick there is a beach and lighthouse which provide a brief respite. Known as Shoreham Harbour or Kingston Buci lighthouse, it was built in 1846 and is now automatic.

The walk continues along the main road to Shoreham by Sea. Look out for the unusual pub signs in the high street one of a boot (Duke of Wellington) and a buccaneer figure carrying a crown representing the town’s smuggling past (Crown and Anchor). The town was established soon after the Norman Conquest in the 11^th century. St Mary de Haura church also dates from near this time and is worth a visit.

In 1917 the Navy constructed two massive sea docks as part of a system of forts in Shoreham Harbour. The idea was to have a huge anti submarine net hung from them. However, it was not completed and was subsequently broken up.

Walk down to the harbour/River Adur frontage and cross the wooden bridge to Shoreham Beach. This area was once called Bungalow Town and included converted railway carriages for holiday accommodation. It has now been completely redeveloped with modern housing. Walk through the roads to the beach and follow the paths westwards to South Lancing.

The beaches along here are stony but you can walk along paths or the road. In the distance, to the right behind Wydewater Lagoon, is Lancing College. This was built in Gothic style in 1868 and is a fee paying private school for 13-18 year olds.

A feature of this part of the walk is the large green area, it lies between the beach and the road and is very popular in the summer.  Further along on the opposite side of the road is Broadwater Park which features go kart racing, mini railway, lake and pitch and putt golf course.

Small fishing boats are pulled up on to the shingle at East Worthing and fresh fish was on sale from some of them when I walked past. Look out for the building with a square clock on the roof. This was presented by children at the time of the Festival of Britain in 1951.

The architecture along Worthing’s main four mile sea front is mainly a mixture of Georgian and Victorian. The interesting domed building is a restored Edwardian cinema. Worthing is renowned for its bowls tournaments.

Continue to the pier where this walk finishes.

Snaps show: a Regency square in Brighton and Hove; The River Adur looking northwards at Shoreham; pub sign in Shoreham; The Grand Hotel, Brighton.

Walk 88 Newhaven to Brighton

Walk   88 Newhaven to Brighton (East Sussex)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 198

Distance: 10 miles or 15km.
Difficulty: Moderate
Terrain: footpaths including cliff paths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Several buses between the two towns and a rail link.

Follow the road on the west side of the River Ouse south out of Newhaven. The road and a path link to the cliff top, or, further down, nearer to the fort, there is another path which links to the cliff path.

Peacehaven is a fairly short walk along the cliff path. In 1916 the land was sold off as individual building plots and a competition held to name the new settlement. As a result it was called New Anzac on Sea although this was changed to Peacehaven after the Gallipoli campaign (WW1) resulted in heavy losses for Australian and New Zealand troops. The community grew after the First World War with a variety of dwellings including converted old railway carriages and army huts. It is now mainly bungalows laid out on the original planned grid of roads.

The Greenwich meridian runs through Peacehaven and a monument or obelisk on the cliff records this. A plaque shows the distances from here to various places in the Commonwealth.

The walk continues to Telscombe Cliffs then there is a short gap before arriving at Saltdean. Two buildings are of note here. The first, Saltdean Lido, built in 1938, is a fine example of the architecture of the time. It was in danger of being closed recently but has been saved. In the background and dominating the skyline is the ex Grand Ocean Hotel built at the same time as the Lido. This was used as a fire service centre during the Second World War and after this it was owned by Butlins. From 1999 until 2005 it became a hotel again and has now been converted to apartments.

About half a mile further along is Rottingdean. The black Rottingdean Windmill can be seen high up on a hill near the village. It was built in 1802 and has been restored with the help of a lottery grant. It is worth a break from the walk to have a look at Rottingdean village. For most of its history it has been a farming community but from the 18^th century it attracted visitors who came here as an alternative to Brighton. Rudyard Kipling’s old house can be seen and the artist Sir William Nicholson’s residence has been converted into a museum and library. If you ever watched the bizarre and funny TV series The League of Gentleman you might be interested to know that The Old Customs House Shop was the inspiration for  – ‘a local shop for local people’.

Returning to the coastal path, which is close to the main road, the next landmark is Roedean School. This famous private school for girls was founded in 1885. During the Second World War the girls moved to Keswick when the Admiralty used the building for training naval cadets. Girls from 11 -18 years old attend the school. Up on the hill near to this point is the famous St Dunstan’s Training Centre for the Blind.

A little further along is the impressive Brighton Marina which is the largest in Europe with 1600 berths. It was built between 1971 and 1979 but has grown since with a number of facilities and attractions added over the years e.g. a supermarket, restaurants, cinemas, bowling alley. 

The walk along Brighton seafront features many impressive buildings. At one point you can look up the hill and see the grandstand of Brighton Racecourse. If you like horse racing it is worth a visit during the summer meetings.

Near to the promenade is the famous Volk’s Electric Railway which runs from the Palace Pier to the marina. Built in 1883, it was Britain’s first electric seafront railway. Magnus Volk, the son of a German clockmaker, was the designer and builder.  At one stage a tall contraption called Daddy Long Legs ran along a special track and gave excursions out into the shallow water of the sea. A storm and some financial problems in the early twentieth century meant that this project had to be abandoned after a few years. Further details can be found on the company’s website: volkselectricrailway.co.uk.

The next landmark is the Palace Pier where this walk ends. In its original form in 1823 it was a Chain Pier which was used for passenger ships arriving from Dieppe in France. Following storm damage it had to be completely rebuilt. This took ten years and other attractions such as amusement machines and palm readers were introduced from 1905. A theatre and bandstand were opened soon after this. It remains very popular with updated rides, games, food outlets etc.

Snaps show: view of Rottingdean; Brighton Marina; Saltdean with old Ocean Hotel in background; Saltdean lido; Volks railway; Palace Pier.

 

Walk 87 Cuckmere Haven to Newhaven

Walk   87 Cuckmere Haven to Newhaven (East Sussex)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 199 and 198

Distance: about 6 miles or 10 km.
Difficulty:  Moderate – some cliff walking
Terrain: footpaths including cliff paths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends (off A259 at Cuckmere Haven)
Public transport: 12, 12A and 13 buses run between Eastbourne and Brighton past Cuckmere Haven and Newhaven.

Start at Exceat Bridge and follow the path along the western side of the Cuckmere River down to the coastal path which is part of The Vanguard Way. This path was developed in the 1980s to celebrate the 15^th anniversary of the Vanguard Rambling Club. They adopted this name when they had to travel in the guard’s van of a train after finishing a walk. The path starts in east Croydon and ends in Newhaven.

On the hill overlooking Cuckmere Haven is a small memorial commemorating the dead in World War 2, presumably this includes those killed by German aircraft which bombed army tents camped here in 1940. The walk continues along the cliff top past Hope Gap and along to Seaford Head. There is a good view of Seaford and the cliffs near Brighton. When I walked this stretch the Isle of Wight could also be seen in the distance.

The path descends to Seaford sea front. The beach here faces south west and violent storms sometimes hurl shingle on to the road. The cliffs back to the east provide a stunning back drop. The large, impressive white building on the land side is Corsica Hall. I was told that this was originally built on the proceeds of smuggled Corsican wine – hence its name.

Seaford was an important port in the middle ages but declined when it silted up in the sixteenth century. The River Ouse, on which it used to stand, was rerouted to Newhaven. A little further along the front is a smart looking Martello Tower which has a cannon on its roof; this building houses the town’s museum.

About a mile out of Seaford is an area called Tide Mills. A mill and some cottages were on this site. The foundations of the former Chailey Heritage Hospital are still clearly visible and the whole area has been tidied up by offenders as part of Community Punishment Orders. The hospital was built in 1924 for boys with physical disorders to recover after an operation. The mill used tides to grind flour and supported a thriving village in the 1800s. A brief history of the now deserted village of Tide Mills can be found on information boards and in the local museum.

The walk inland to Newhaven has to be navigated carefully alongside the industrial buildings and involves crossing the railway line. There is a good view of the River Ouse and harbour from the bridge linking the two parts of Newhaven. On the west side of the river are some expensive looking residential buildings.  Newhaven is a busy port with area of light industry and a ferry service to France. Look out for the toilets near Newhaven FC which claim to be the last before France!  At one time Newhaven had an unusual trade in flints (often called boulders) which were gathered from the beaches and sent to the potteries in the midlands.

No visit to Newhaven is complete without a visit to the famous fort on the cliff top. This virtually impregnable building was originally constructed to repel the French in Napoleonic times and was later adapted to rebuff the threat of a German invasion in the Second World War. 

The walk finishes at this point.

Snaps show: Martello Tower at Seaford; the 'last toilets' Newhaven; Tide Mills - hospital foundations; The site of Newhaven Fort.

Walk 86 Eastbourne to Cuckmere Haven

Walk  86 Eastbourne to Cuckmere Haven (East Sussex)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 199

Distance: about 10 miles or 15km.
Difficulty:  Challenging in parts especially the Seven Sisters Country Park 
Terrain: footpaths including cliff paths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends (off A259 at Cuckmere Haven)
Public transport: 12, 12A and 13 buses run between Eastbourne and Brighton past Cuckmere Haven.

Start at Eastbourne pier and walk westwards. A number of rather splendid buildings adorn the seafront; these include The Grand which was built in 1875. The white façade is often compared to a wedding cake. The town became a fashionable resort from about 1780 when the children of George 111 stayed here. Further well kept, attractive, buildings (mostly 19^th century) are clear evidence of the areas popularity. Near the seafront is the art deco bandstand which is still regularly in use during the season.

The wide promenade out of Eastbourne allows a good view of Beachy Head. On the promenade is a statue of the Duke of Devonshire who owns much of the land in the town. The walk continues up the cliff and an impressive panoramic view of Eastbourne and beyond can be enjoyed. Early Venetian sailors called the head Devil’s Cape because of the treacherous shallow waters. A sign marks the top of Beachy Head which is 534 feet above sea level.

Beachy Head is a beautiful and a sad place. The iconic red and white striped Beachy Head Lighthouse is 144 feet tall but is dwarfed by the surrounding cliffs. It was built in 1902 and is now fully automated. Near to this point is Lovers’ Leap. About 100 people a year jump or attempt to jump from here; the crosses and floral memorials are a poignant reminder of this. A chaplain is stationed at Beachy Head; his vehicle is clearly marked.

From this point The Seven Sisters Country Park can be seen stretching westwards towards Cuckmere Haven. The seven cliff hills provide some challenging walking – I’m sure I counted eight! The walk from Beachy Head continues to The Belle Tout Lighthouse. This was built in 1834 but was made redundant when fog blocked its light. It is now a home and B&B. A few years ago it was in danger of falling into the sea because of cliff erosion. The owners had it moved 55 feet inland using hydraulic jacks – quite an operation.

Beyond the lighthouse is Birling Gap. There is a café in the Gap and rock pools to enjoy – care needs to be taken with the incoming tide. The cliff edges of the Seven Sisters are unprotected and it is essential top keep to the path. The views of the coastline here are spectacular.

 After tackling the seven or (eight) hills is the attractive estuary of the River Cuckmere (pronounced Cookmere). It is one of the rare UK river mouths to have no industrial or domestic settlements. In the 1800s it was used by smuggling gangs to carry French brandy up the river to Alfreston. As the path moves inland the meandering of the river can be spotted together with examples of oxbow lakes in the flood plain. It is very popular with school geographical field trips.  

Continue the walk back to the A259.

Snaps show: The Grand, Eastbourne; Bandstand, Eastbourne; Belle Tout Lighthouse; Birling Gap and the Seven Sisters.

Walk 85 Bexhill to Eastbourne

Walk 85    Bexhill to Eastbourne (East Sussex)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 199

Distance: about 12 miles or 18km.
Difficulty:  Easy – mostly flat
Terrain: footpaths, pavement and beach.
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Rail and bus links between the two towns.

Start at the De La Warr pavilion in Bexhill. A mile or so to the west is Cooden Beach. You can get here by walking along the beach or by road. If the tide is in, clambering over the groynes can be tiring. Cooden has a long sandy foreshore and is popular with kite and windsurfers. Take care – they can get up a fair speed.

The walk to Norman’s Bay can be partly on the road but the remaining half mile needs to be on the beach. The shingles near the top of the beach are hard going so opt for sand near the shoreline if the tide is out far enough. Norman’s Bay is generally accepted as the place where William the Conqueror landed on 28 September 1066. King Harold was 250 miles away defeating a Norwegian invasion at Stamford Bridge in Yorkshire at the time. When he heard this William is supposed to have fallen as he jumped ashore and said that he had seized the very soil of England. Which he had!

To the west of Norman’s Bay is a rather dilapidated Martello Tower – one of many such buildings on this coast. (Erected to defend the coast during the time of the Napoleonic Wars and based on a tower in Mortella, Corsica which the British forces found difficult to capture in 1794). 

The walk passes the private beach estate at Beachlands. Rightly or wrongly, I continued walking on the lower part of the beach near to the groynes without being shouted at. Soon after Beachlands is Pevensey Bay. This is now a pleasant small resort which originally provided a safe haven for the Norman fleet in 1066. William the Conqueror built Pevensey Castle and the ruins can still be seen. In the 18^th and 19^th centuries smuggling was rife as it was an easy  place to land contraband.

The walk continues along the beach and paths into Eastbourne. Further Martello Towers can be seen before arriving at Sovereign Harbour. This whole area has been redeveloped with housing and apartments which look out on a new harbour, it is expensive to live here but not very attractive in my view. Some map navigation is needed to walk inland and follow the cycle route towards Langney Point on the other side of the harbour.

Follow the promenade into Eastbourne. The Dotto Train runs along here – the only problem being it is not strictly a train (no railway) but a vehicle pulling carriages along a road.

On the walk into Eastbourne you can spot that the groynes have been numbered for easy location – a good idea for emergencies. Eastbourne has been a popular resort for many years mainly because of its sheltered position and sunny climate. Its population dipped during the Second World War when it was badly bombed. Nowadays, it retains its popularity as a quiet resort and many pensioners now live in or near the town.

Continue along to the pier along one of the promenades (they are at different levels). The pier is Victorian and is held up on cast iron legs. The walk finishes here.

Snaps show: Beachlands; a 'desirable property' near Norman's Bay; Sovereign Harbour; Martello Tower; Dotto Railway; Eastbourne Pier.

Walk 84 Hastings to Bexhill

Walk   84 Hastings to Bexhill

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 199

Distance: about 5 miles or 8km
Difficulty:  A few steep parts but fairly easy on the whole
Terrain: footpaths, pavement and beach.
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Rail and bus links between the two towns.

This is a relatively short walk which allows some time for visits to the attractions in both towns. The walk is straightforward out of Hastings and St Leonards it then follows paths/beach alongside the railway line then cliffs into Bexhill. The route is not fully evident on the map.

Start at Hastings Pier. There are some impressive buildings to be seen including the ex Grand Hotel which is now apartments. On the beach are a series of mostly wooden groynes. In the Middle Ages Hastings became one of the Cinque Ports (the town was allowed trading privileges in exchange for helping to provide the British Navy). In the 13^th century much of the town was washed away by the sea. The next century saw the French invade twice and burn the town. Like many coastal towns it remained a fishing village until the advent of the railways in Victorian times built up its popularity as a holiday destination.

Several famous people have connections with Hastings, these include: Robert Tressell who wrote his brilliant book The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists when living here; Gareth Barry the footballer who was born in the town; Jo Brand the comedian who went to a Hastings school; Harry H Corbett, the Steptoe and Son actor who lived and died here. Perhaps the most famous connection is with John Logie Baird who made the first TV transmission in Hastings in 1925. Hastings Museum has more information on how the town became known as the home of TV. The area is popular for film locations including its use for the TV series Foyles War.

Walking out of the main part of Hastings and towards St Leonards, a large, curvilinear building can be seen near the seafront. This block of flats, built in the 1930s, was designed to reflect the grandeur of an ocean liner but some locals call it ‘Monstrosity Mansions’.

Two other significant landmarks in St Leonards are the church and Warrior Square. The town takes its name from the old church which was demolished in medieval times. The modern town was designed in the 19^th century by the London architect James Burton who was also for constructing the Anglican church. This building was destroyed by a V1 ‘doodlebug’ World War 2 and was replaced by the current impressive building you can see now; ­it is listed by English Heritage for its architectural importance.

Follow the road, paths and beach out of St Leonards towards Bulverhythe. On this part of the walk, very large sections of rock acting as sea defences dominate the beach. Bulverhythe has a few small boats pulled up on to the beach and a large number of beach huts. Bulverhythe is translated as ‘Burghers landing place’ (a burgher normally referring to a wealthy citizen). The village is also known by a few other names including the rather odd ‘Bo Peep’. Remains of a ship called the Amsterdam can be seen at very low tide – this was on its way to Java in 1749 before coming to grief.

The path approaching Bexhill goes alongside the railway line and past Galley Hill. The first motor car races in the UK started here in 1902 and finished in Bexhill. Thousands of people came to watch cars travelling around 50mph when the speed limit on the road was just 12mph. The last competition was held in 1925 after which racing was not allowed on public roads. These events led Bexhill to become known as the home of motor racing. Classic car shows are still held annually to celebrate the town’s past. A metal sculpture near to the seafront is an artistic impression of the record breaking ‘Easter egg’ car driven by Leon Serpollet in the 1900s.

Further along the front are some single storey houses with unusual oriental domes. A local told me these were built by a Maharaja living in the town. I have been unable to confirm this.

No visit to Bexhill is complete without a visit to the De La Warr Pavilion on the front. In late Victorian times the seventh Earl De La Warr transformed the village of Bexhill into an exclusive seaside resort. This is reflected in the many examples of Victorian architecture to be seen around the town. The ninth Earl De La Warr had the pavilion built as a public building in 1935. The ‘art deco’ and modernist designs have resulted in it being listed. It was reopened in 2005 after a couple of years of refurbishment and now houses a contemporary arts centre. The local museum has further information with particularly helpful staff willing to talk to you  e.g. they told me that the family prefer the pronunciation ‘De La Ware’ rather than ‘De La Warr’. On the coast side of the pavilion is an outdoor structure for performers. A local told me it was impractical as the performers suffered from uncomfortable back drafts from the sea breezes.

Two more notable landmarks near the sea front are the clock tower, which was built to celebrate the coronation of Edward V1,1 and a pitch and putt course with information about the famous local golfer Max Faulkener (born 1916). He was known as the ‘Clown Prince of Golf’ as he chatted to the spectators and dressed in bright yellow. Other famous people with Bexhill connections include: Eddie Izzard the comedian who is patron of the local museum; Spike Milligan who spent some of his army time here and wrote about the town in one of his books; Ted Lowe the snooker commentator who lived here until his death in 2011.

Snaps show: the performance structure at The De La Warr pavilion, Bexhill; the Easter Egg car sculpture, Bexhill; St Leonard's Church; Warrior Square, St Leonard's; Galley Hill, Bexhill.

Walk 83 Winchelsea Beach to Hastings (East Sussex)

Walk   83 Winchelsea Beach to Hastings (East Susses)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 189 and 199

Distance: about 10 miles or 15km
Difficulty:  Moderate, flat to start with some strenuous steep cliff walking in the second part
Terrain: footpaths and pavement.
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Bus 344 every hour Mon – Sat connects Winchelsea Beach with Hastings; much restricted service on Sunday.

The walk along the sea wall from Winchelsea, which is parallel with the road, provides a good view of the beach and the Pett Levels inland. After about a mile or so there are some lakes which come close to the edge of the road. These are the Colonel Body Memorial Lakes. I have read that he was the Deputy Lieutenant of Kent in 1945 and that he died suddenly in the same year. There used to be a tram way along this section which was used when the sea defences were constructed in 1934. Although the track was removed in the 1950s I have heard that there is still some evidence of its existence.

The last part of the flat walk finishes at Cliffs End. The eastern end of the beach is dominated by the sandstone cliffs. At low tide the remnants of an ancient submerged forest can be spotted by those who know what they are looking for.

The next part of the walk begins on the cliff but soon enters the roads of a housing estate.  The roads towards the cliff edge were blocked off due to erosion and there appeared to be no access to Fairlight Cove. However, I spotted an A4 sheet of paper pinned to a fence saying ‘Nudist beach this way’!

The path passes along the cliff top through Fire Hills which is believed to get its name from the bright yellow gorse which grows there in April and May. The hills are part of Hastings Country Park, an area of special scientific interest and outstanding beauty. It is popular with families and others enjoying an afternoon walk. A visitors’ centre provides more information about the fauna, flora and geology of the area.

Further along, Hastings Pier, then the old town become clearly visible. At the end of the walk you could choose whether to walk down or use the East Cliff Lift. This was opened in 1903 and is the steepest funicular (i.e. using two counter balanced carriages) railway. There is a further Cliffside lift on the West Cliff which takes visitors to the castle and Smugglers’ Corner attraction. The castle was first built in 1068 by William the Conqueror and made into a stone structure after 1070. William is supposed to have had his first meal near Hastings although the actual Battle of Hastings was at Battle six miles inland. The seafront at the bottom of the cliffs provides good views back to Covehurst Bay.

Soon the walk passes through the old fishing part of Hastings. Fishing boats or ‘luggers’ (from the 4 sided lugsails once used) are pulled up on to the shingle beach on rollers. The catch is auctioned most mornings from the ‘net shop’. The tall wooden buildings were built in the 19^th century to store fishermen’s nets and ropes. Some are converted boats and so built to make best use of the limited beach space. The Hastings Fishermen Museum is well worth a visit for more information.

Continue the walk past the attractive sea front buildings and pedalo pool towards Hastings Pier where the walk finishes.

When I walked this section the pier was closed as it was deemed unsafe. However, soon after this (in 2010) there was a serious fire which destroyed 95% of the structure. Efforts are being made to reinstate it but so far nothing tangible has happened. (Update opened in 2016). The pier was built in 1872 and was very popular in the 1930s and again in the 1960s when several pop groups used it as a venue.

Snaps show: The Firehills; Covehurst Bay; Old Town, Hastings; fishermen's huts, Hastings; two views of the pier before the fire.