Walk 86 Eastbourne to Cuckmere Haven

Walk  86 Eastbourne to Cuckmere Haven (East Sussex)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 199

Distance: about 10 miles or 15km.
Difficulty:  Challenging in parts especially the Seven Sisters Country Park 
Terrain: footpaths including cliff paths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends (off A259 at Cuckmere Haven)
Public transport: 12, 12A and 13 buses run between Eastbourne and Brighton past Cuckmere Haven.

Start at Eastbourne pier and walk westwards. A number of rather splendid buildings adorn the seafront; these include The Grand which was built in 1875. The white façade is often compared to a wedding cake. The town became a fashionable resort from about 1780 when the children of George 111 stayed here. Further well kept, attractive, buildings (mostly 19^th century) are clear evidence of the areas popularity. Near the seafront is the art deco bandstand which is still regularly in use during the season.

The wide promenade out of Eastbourne allows a good view of Beachy Head. On the promenade is a statue of the Duke of Devonshire who owns much of the land in the town. The walk continues up the cliff and an impressive panoramic view of Eastbourne and beyond can be enjoyed. Early Venetian sailors called the head Devil’s Cape because of the treacherous shallow waters. A sign marks the top of Beachy Head which is 534 feet above sea level.

Beachy Head is a beautiful and a sad place. The iconic red and white striped Beachy Head Lighthouse is 144 feet tall but is dwarfed by the surrounding cliffs. It was built in 1902 and is now fully automated. Near to this point is Lovers’ Leap. About 100 people a year jump or attempt to jump from here; the crosses and floral memorials are a poignant reminder of this. A chaplain is stationed at Beachy Head; his vehicle is clearly marked.

From this point The Seven Sisters Country Park can be seen stretching westwards towards Cuckmere Haven. The seven cliff hills provide some challenging walking – I’m sure I counted eight! The walk from Beachy Head continues to The Belle Tout Lighthouse. This was built in 1834 but was made redundant when fog blocked its light. It is now a home and B&B. A few years ago it was in danger of falling into the sea because of cliff erosion. The owners had it moved 55 feet inland using hydraulic jacks – quite an operation.

Beyond the lighthouse is Birling Gap. There is a café in the Gap and rock pools to enjoy – care needs to be taken with the incoming tide. The cliff edges of the Seven Sisters are unprotected and it is essential top keep to the path. The views of the coastline here are spectacular.

 After tackling the seven or (eight) hills is the attractive estuary of the River Cuckmere (pronounced Cookmere). It is one of the rare UK river mouths to have no industrial or domestic settlements. In the 1800s it was used by smuggling gangs to carry French brandy up the river to Alfreston. As the path moves inland the meandering of the river can be spotted together with examples of oxbow lakes in the flood plain. It is very popular with school geographical field trips.  

Continue the walk back to the A259.

Snaps show: The Grand, Eastbourne; Bandstand, Eastbourne; Belle Tout Lighthouse; Birling Gap and the Seven Sisters.