Walk
193 Askam in Furness to Walney Island and Barrow in Furness (Cumbria)
(Fourth
leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)
Map:
L/R 96
Distance:
12 miles or 20 km approx
Difficulty:
Easy, flat
Terrain:
coastal path, small amount of road. Check tides around Askam as I was
told that the walk could be difficult across the sands.
Access:
Parking at both ends
Public
transport: Trains between Barrow and Askam
Rightly
or wrongly I took the advice of a local and started this walk at
Askam in Furness rather than Kirby in Furness. He said that Kirby
southwards could be very marshy and best avoided. (NB Furness is a peninsula but where did the name come from and what is the actual meaning - have not found a source to tell me),
The
streets of Askam are typical terraced rows which once housed the
workers of the local iron ore works and pits. Many of the workers
came here from mining areas in Ireland and Cornwall. Evidence of the
industry is still there, including the pier and names such as Steel
Street and Sharp Street (a person involved in early iron ore
extraction). Askam has its own lifeboat station.
The
walk along the Cumbrian Coastal Way is often along the beach – note
warnings above about tides. There a few dog walkers to start with,
but judging by my experience, you can expect a lonely walk until you
reach the outskirts of Barrow. Follow the path around Sandscale Haws
then to the (appropriately?) named Lowsy Point. The path eventually
moves inland and follows the route of the main road past the Dock
Museum and over on to Walney Island.
There
is no path around the coast of the island but you can get good views
by following the road to the western side. Jubilee Bridge takes you
over to the island across Walney Channel – the bridge gets its name
from the silver jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary. A plaque on
the side also notes that it was freed from being a toll bridge in
1935. Just
before the bridge are buildings owned by BAE Systems, the largest
employer in Barrow.
On
the right, as you cross on to the island, is the picturesque Ferry
Hotel – the site of the Barrow ferry before the bridge was built.
Near here there are thought to be plague victims buried in a mass
grave in 1631.
As
you move on to the island you enter Vickerstown which was originally
planned as a resort. Instead, Vickers, the Barrow shipbuilders,
developed a model estate for its workers similar to that built at
Port Sunlight on Merseyside.
Follow
the road to the western coast and beach. This is a pleasant spot
where you can get good views in both directions. It extends for 12
miles. Walk a little further southwards to Biggar Bank with its
white, curved pavilion. A plaque nearby dated 1933 states that the
Bank and the pavilion were 'declared free for the use of the public
for ever'. There are nature reserves on both ends of the island where
natterjack toads, nesting gulls and the unique Walney Geranium can be
found. An elderly neighbour, sadly no longer with us, told me that a
false harbour was built on the island to confuse the Germans during
World War 2.
Follow
the road back into Barrow. The town was originally settled around
Furness Abbey founded in 1172 but now a ruin. It is on the eastern
fringe of the town. Victorian Barrow was a planned development that
at one time boasted the largest iron and steel works in the world. It
also had a thriving ship building industry. If you have time, it is
worth popping into the Dock Museum to learn more. From the 1960s
Barrow has been the site for the construction of nuclear submarines.
Look out for the impressive town hall which reflects the importance
of the town (it remains the largest in Cumbria). In the shopping
area, a sculpture marks the industrial past of the town. Outside the
Cruise Direct/Barrhead Travel offices is a sculpture of Emlyn Hughes.
He was born in Barrow, played locally as a youth before becoming
captain of England and Liverpool. He died in 2004.
Photos show: the coast south of Akram in Furness; The Ferry Hotel from the bridge to Walney Island; the 12 mile long beach on the west of Walney Island; industry sculpture in Barrow on Furness.
Photos show: the coast south of Akram in Furness; The Ferry Hotel from the bridge to Walney Island; the 12 mile long beach on the west of Walney Island; industry sculpture in Barrow on Furness.
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