Walk
189 Workington to Whitehaven (Cumbria)
(Fourth
leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)
Map:
L/R 89
Distance:
12 miles or 18km approx
Difficulty:
Moderate – much is flat but there are hilly sections
Terrain:
coastal path which includes some road walking
Access:
Parking in each location
Public
transport: Frequent service between the two towns 300, 130, 302 and
31. Trains are also possible.
To
get to the path you need to start on the north side of the River
Derwent. It can be a bit confusing depending on which part of
Workington you start from. Follow the path out to the point, then it
cuts southwards through the old steelworks. Tata still had a factory
here when I went but I am not sure whether that is still the case.
One things for sure, it is one of the most uninspiring coastal walks
I have come across. Much of the area has been denuded of industry
leaving swathes of rough ground. In its heyday the steelworks
produced vast quantities of iron and steel assisted by a new process
invented by Henry Bessemer. For mile or so the path passes alongside
the railway.
The
barren scenery fades when near to Harrington. Industry left here in
the 1930s and there was once five rail stations (just one now). The
harbour area was used in World War 2 for a secret magnesium works
(extracted from sea water) to make aircraft parts. Look out for
strange conical rocks which I assume are sea defences.
After
Harrington the path cuts inland past a wind farm, then there is a bit
of road walking into Lowca. In 1915 it was attacked by a German
U-boat that surfaced close inshore and fired ineffectively at a
chemical works; the first time a submarine had ever targeted a dry
land location.
After
walking through Parton there are good views back along to its harbour
and the coast beyond. The path continues alongside the railway once
again. Look out for two chimney like structures which connect to mine
shafts that run a long way under the sea.
The
walk finishes at the pleasant town of Whitehaven with its busy
harbour. The town centre was inspired by Sir Christopher Wren's plans
for rebuilding London after the Great Fire. Broad streets run down to
the harbour. In the 18th century Whitehaven rivalled
Liverpool and Bristol as a port and was the third largest town in the
north of England. If you have time, go to the Beacon Museum with its
interactive displays about the town's history. Whitehaven was
attacked in 1778 during the American War of Independence. The famous
John Paul Jones anchored his boat at nearby St Bee's Head but his
plans went awry when the alarm was raised. A local told me it was
because his men were drunk. Also worth visiting is The Rum Story
which tells the story of its making and its association with the
slave trade, the British Navy and smuggling.
A
memorial garden in the town marks the tragedy on the day in 2010 when
a taxi driver shot (mostly randomly) at several people.
Photos show: the site of old industry south of Workington; Harrington; mine shafts north of Whitehaven; Whiatehaven Harbour.
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