Walk
152 Newlyn to Porthcurno (Cornwall)
(Second
leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)
Map:
L/R 203
Distance:
10 miles or 18km approx
Difficulty:
Challenging and demanding in parts
Terrain:
road and cliff paths
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: Bus 1A runs without changes a few times a day to and from
Penzance. Check with Traveline for times.
Follow
the path along the road and on to Mousehole. There is a belief that
the village got its name from a cave that resembled a mouse hole.
Mousehole,
pronounced 'Mouzl', is one of Cornwall's best known and ancient
fishing villages. For many years it was the centre of the pilchard
fishing industry. The town was sacked (plundered and destroyed) by
the Spanish in 1595. In 1981 the town was hit by disaster when the
Penlee lifeboat and its 8 man crew was lost. The town's Christmas
lights are turned off each December 19th in remembrance of
those who died. Today the village has quaint streets with a number of
small art galleries/shops.
Continue
walking to Penzer and Keymel Points. Some of the walking on this
stretch involves clambering over rocks and other difficult terrain.
Much of this area is owned by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. The
granite slopes were once home to conifer trees but these were
destroyed in a storm. The conditions now favour plants such as fern
and it is has become an important haven for various types of
wildlife.
The
next landmark is Lamorna Cove, a small sandy beach settlement with an
old granite pier which was built for exporting stone quarried from
the local cliffs and then used in building lighthouses.
The
challenging rocky walk continues along to Tater Du with its low lying
white lighthouse. This was the UK's first remote control lighthouse
when it was built in 1968 and is operated from Penzance.
Further
along, look out for a gate with the notice: “The Derek and Jeannie
Tangye Minack Chronicles Nature Reserve. A place for solitude.”
This couple gave up their jobs to run a flower farm near here and
wrote 19 autobiographical books about their life on the farm. In
their will they stated that their land must remain as a nature
reserve and it is now run by volunteers.
Follow
the path around to Penberth Cove and prepare for a walk across large
boulder type rocks – ripe for a twisted ankle if you are not
careful. Penberth Cove is a picturesque spot with old fishermen's
cottages, an old winch and various nets and pots. Phoencian merchants
(from middle east area) landed here to buy tin but local miners would
not allow them to leave the beach so they could keep their mining
methods secret. In past years the fishing industry has declined but
there are still a few fishermen who mainly catch mackerel, crab and
sea bass.
The
walk ends at Porthcurno, look out for the monument to Marconi before
arriving at the cove. The beach here is the terminus of ocean cables
that connected Britain to international telephone networks. The first
link was to Bombay in 1870. To find out more it is well worth
visiting The Telegraph Museum inland at Porthcurno – it includes
secret World War 2 tunnels and a cable trail to the beach.
Pictures show: the boulders that form a challenging part of the coastal path; Penberth Cove.
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