Walk
132 Salcombe to Thurlestone (Devon)
(Second
leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)
Map:
L/R 202
Distance:
12 miles or 20 km.
Difficulty:
moderate to challenging – cliff path some steep climbs to coves -
allow plenty of time.
Terrain:
coastal cliff path
Access:
Parking at both ends
Public
transport: Difficult. Possible to get from Thurlestone to Salcombe
with a change of buses but only 3 times a day. To get to Salcombe you
may need to use the foot ferry which runs all year, every half hour
or so.
Start
near the lifeboat station at Salcombe. Across this stretch of water
in 1889 and anchored off the sand bar, Tennyson was inspired to write
the poem “Crossing the Bar”. In the 1860s Salcombe 'fruities'
were often seen on the water. These were a type of schooner that
traded in citrus fruits from the Azores. The estuary is still popular
with yachts and other small craft.
Salcombe
has a number of quaint streets and it is worth a short time looking
round these. Shipbuilding was associated with the town for many
years, especially in the 19th century. The introduction of
steam driven steel hulled craft caused shipbuilding to move away to
more industrial areas.
Walk
south out of Salcombe near to the remains of Salcombe Castle. This
fort was the last one in England to hold out for the Royalists. It
was built by Henry 8th but renamed Fort Charles in the
Civil War. Continue along through North and South Sands and to the
ragged rocks at Bolt Head. At Starehole Bay the last working tall
ship was wrecked in 1936 – it took two months before she broke up
and her rotting cargo of corn could evidently be smelt for miles
around.
A
couple of miles or so further along is Soar Mill Cove. This is
renowned for its ship wrecks. In 1887 a tea clipper was wrecked here
and a wall of tea 3 metres high was washed on the beach. Look out for
the Ham Stone off the shoreline, especially if you like a variety of
seabird life.
The
path continues along to Bolberry Down. Near here the discovery of
flint tools indicates a significant prehistoric settlement. This part
of the walk is challenging and a different route is available for
those who prefer an easier route.
Bolt
Tail provides a panoramic view to the west across Hope Cove to Inner
and Outer Hope. In 1760, HMS Ramilles was dashed on the rocks below
and about 800 sailors died.
Quaint
thatched buildings feature at Hope Cove. The area had a reputation
for smuggling and the plundering of wrecked ships. In 1588 the San
Pedro el Mayar, the hospital ship for the Spanish Armada, got wrecked
on nearby rocks. Forty to fifty of the survivors were initially
sentenced to death but were castrated instead and returned to Spain.
Wreckage from this ship apparently still gets washed ashore –
occasionally gold and silver appear.
Thurlestone rock and nearby beach.
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