Walk 75 Holy Island (Lindisfarne)
(First leg of English
coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).
Map: L/R 75
Distance: about 20 km or 13 miles unless driving on to the
island in which case probably 4 miles max Difficulty: Fairly easy
Terrain: footpaths and pavement
Access: Parking on the island
Public transport: Bus 501,505 stopping near Beal on the main road.
THIS WALK NEEDS TO BE PLANNED CAREFULLY IN ADVANCE OTHERWISE
YOU COULD BE STRANDED ON THE ISLAND OR WORSE FIND YOURSELF STUCK IN DEEP WATER
IN A VEHICLE OR ON FOOT. CHECK THE SAFE TIMES TO CROSS TO THE ISLAND AND GET OFF
AGAIN. BUSES VARY DEPENDING ON THESE TIMES.
Walk the couple of miles from the main road through Beal and
on to the start of the Causeway to Holy Island. You will see many notices
warning of tide dangers; despite these many cars get stranded every year and
suffer terminal damage. I don’t suppose the coastguard people are very amused
either! Half way across is a refuge – you don’t want to be using this. The
views to the mainland are very attractive and well worth several stops to gaze
back.
The path follows the road and crosses a nature reserve. Continue
on this path jointly known as St Cuthbert’s and St Oswald’s Way until the main
village. It is well worth a visit to the heritage centre to learn about the
history of the island which, together with Canterbury in Kent, is recognised as
the cradle of Christianity in England. No visit is complete without a visit to
the atmospheric priory of St Aidan. Although a ruin, there is enough left to
appreciate the construction of the building and there is helpful information
around identifying the various parts.
St Aidan established the priory in the 7th
century but virtually nothing remains of this building which was destroyed by
Viking invaders. Benedictine monks formed a new monastery here two centuries
later and the Norman Priory now stands on the same site. Aidan is originally
believed to have chosen this location because of its isolation and proximity to
the Northumbrian capital at Bamburgh. It was therefore a good place to launch
his conversion of the area to Christianity. In the mid 7th century
Cuthbert became the fifth bishop and further built on the island’s reputation
with his ability to heal the sick and work miracles. The monastery was used
until the suppression of the monasteries by Henry V111 in 1537.
Try to visit Durham when in the area (the cathedral there is
the most magnificent one I have seen) there is an impressive statue in a
shopping area showing the monks of Lindisfarne taking the body of St Cuthbert
to ‘found’ Durham Cathedral – his tomb is to be found in the crypt.
Bcak to the island, take a walk to Lindisfarne Castle which is clearly visible from the priory (or if
you are feeling lazy take the 'shuttle' bus). The Castle was built in the mid 16th
century to defend the island from the Scots and then as a fort from 1559 until
1893. Sir Edwin Luytens, the famous architect turned the castle into a holiday
home early in the twentieth century. The National Trust now own it and it is
worth a visit.
Look out for the upturned boats around the castle which now
serve as storage sheds. From near this point you can see some lime kilns. These
were built in 1860 and were in use until 1900. Limestone was quarried on the
island and was mainly used as a fertiliser. A walk to the nearby peaceful Gertrude
Jekyll garden is worthwhile on a pleasant day.
The walk finishes with a stroll northwards across the links
to appreciate the more remote areas of the island. Backtrack to the car park or
back on to the main road past Beal.
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