Walk 103 Isle of Wight - Gurnard Bay to East Cowes

Walk  103  Isle of Wight- Gurnard Bay to East Cowes

 (Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 196

Distance: about 5 miles or 8 km including exploring the towns
Difficulty: Moderate
Terrain: mainly pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Bus 1 runs from Newport to Cowes. Further bus connections at East Cowes. The walk involves using the floating bridge to cross the River Medina to East Cowes. 

This is quite a short walk that could be combined with a visit to Carrisbroke Castle in nearby Newport. This is the castle where Charles 1^st was kept before his execution in London. A museum tells the story of the castle including that of the donkeys which still turn the water wheel (for demonstrations only).

Gurnard Bay has a small beach with a few beach huts. The view across the sea is quite pleasant with the not so nice industrial area of Fawley just visible in the distance. The walk into Gurnard and Cowes follows the road. Look out for some quite impressive houses on the way to Egypt Point. This part of the coast gets its name from a gypsy encampment that was nearby in the sixteenth century. Between 1897 and 1989 a lighthouse operated here and the structure is now used as a landmark for yachtsmen. Egypt Point was one of Queen Victoria’s favourite spots when she lived on the island. Look out for an impressive and elaborate water fountain with a carved open bible on its roof. I have been unable to find out the significance of this although it clearly has some religious origin.

Ferries coming and going to Southampton can be regularly seen on the walk into Cowes. The town is probably the most famous and fashionable yachting centre in the world. Cowes Week takes place during the first 9 days of August when there are several regattas. East and West Cowes are split by the River Medina. On the west side are some smart brass cannons pointing out to sea, these come from a fort built by Henry V111 to defend The Solent. During World War 2 Cowes was the centre of operations for the D Day landings.

There are several yachting clubs in West Cowes. The Royal Yacht Squadron founded in 1815 is regarded as the most exclusive in the world. There is also a strong boat building tradition in Cowes. Personalities who have a connection with the town include Ellen McArthur, George V, Edward V11 and William Arnold. The latter, who was the father of Thomas Arnold, fought against the pirates and smugglers active here in the 19^th century.

The floating or chain ferry carries foot passengers and cars to cross the River Medina. Before the 1860s the ferry was horse drawn. During the 19^th century Cowes was a fashionable spa town with bathing machines. Look out for the ‘unclaimed shop’ (if it is still trading) – this sells or sold lost property.

The walk around the Isle of Wight finishes here.

Snaps show: Southampton to Cowes ferry; the lion sculpture at Egypt Point; the water fountain near here; the chain ferry.

Walk 102 Isle of Wight - Alum Bay to Yarmouth

 Walk  102  Isle of Wight- Alum Bay to Yarmouth

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 196

Distance: 6 miles or 11 km. approx.
Difficulty: Moderate
Terrain: mainly footpaths
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: No 7 bus runs regularly between the two points

From Alum Bay continue the walk across Headen Warren before dropping down into Totland.

There were some strange sculptures in the rocks when I walked along here. Bent iron poles with bits hanging from them stuck into the rocks Are they still there I wonder. The pier at Totland is used by Trinity House for taking out pilot boats and guiding ships into The Solent.

Continue to Colwell Bay. After the path cuts inland there is a building jutting out into the sea. This is Fort Albert built in 1856 as a defence against the French. It was used in later years for the first torpedo development trials.

On the walk into Yarmouth the path passes through the Fort Victoria Country Park. If there is time you may want to visit some of the attractions here. They include an aquarium, an underwater archaeology centre, a planetarium and a model railway.

After a little bit of road walking you enter Yarmouth. This is an attractive town, situated at the mouth of the River Yar and the oldest one on the island. It is listed in the Domesday Book and was the first town to be granted a royal charter. The town cannot be enlarged from its present size as it is surrounded by solid rock. Yarmouth Castle was built by Henry V111 in response to the sacking of the town (twice) by the French. The 215 metre pier dating from 1876 is unique in Britain as it is the only one remaining built entirely of wood (apart from screws, nails etc.) It is a listed building. The interestingly named Old Gaffer Festival takes place in Yarmouth every May or June. A gaff is a specially rigged sailing boat and about 100 of these compete in a three day festival.

Snaps show: The rock sculptures at Totland; Yarmouth Pier; part of Yarmouth town; Totland Pier; Fort Albert, Colwell Bay.

Walk 101 Isle of Wight - Brighstone to Alum Bay

Walk   101  Isle of Wight- Brighstone to Alum Bay

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 196

Distance: 13 miles or 20 km. approx.
Difficulty: Moderate
Terrain: mainly footpaths
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: A little tricky but possible with buses from Brighstone to Alum Bay changing at Totland.

The coastal path continues from Brighstone and runs parallel to the main road. Hopefully, there will be no further damage to the cliffs that necessitate walking along the road. From Brook Bay there is a good view of Hanover Point with its white cliffs and Compton Bay beyond. This area is famous for evidence of dinosaurs including the discovery of iguanodon footprints fossilised in the mud. This part of the coast is preserved by the National Trust.

Shippard Chine is crossed by a small footbridge and a further one at Compton Chine. The next main feature is Freshwater Bay. This is a picturesque cove overlooked by a hotel (with a bar!). The nearby village of Freshwater was the birthplace of Robert Hooke the famous physicist.

There is a climb out of Freshwater Bay on to Tennyson Down with its distinctive monument. This is dedicated to Lord Tennyson  (1809-1892) who lived near Freshwater from 1853 to 1868. It stands 482 feet above sea level and the air here was described by Tennyson in one of his poems as worth ‘sixpence a pint’.  The views from here are impressive.

Continue the walk around to the Needles. The iconic, instantly recognisable, view of the rocks is seen best from Alum Bay  or Needles Old Battery. The latter, now owned by the National Trust is worth a visit. It is a fort from the 19^th century and was also used in both World Wars. Exhibitions in the fort explain its history and there is an underground tunnel which leads to a lookout.

Continue around to Alum Bay. A chair lift down to the beach is the best way to view the banded sandstone cliffs. These have more than 20 colours ranging from chocolate brown to strawberry pink. It is now prohibited to take sand from the beach or cliffs. However, glass containers with samples can be bought from the cliff-top shop.

At the top of the cliff there is a small amusement park with cafes etc. A memorial near to the chairlift marks the site of the Needles Wireless Telegraph Station. Marconi and his British collaborators carried out a series of important experiments from here between 1897 and 1900. In 1899 information for the first newspaper produced at sea was transmitted from this spot - to the ‘St Paul’ which was 36 miles away at the time.

Snaps show: Freshwater Bay looking east; the rocks at Alum Bay; The Needles from the battery; the chair lift at Alum Bay; Freshwater looking west; a cannon at Needles Battery.

Walk 100 Isle of Wight. Ventnor to Brighstone

 Walk  100  Isle of Wight- Ventnor to Brighstone

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 196

Distance: 15 miles or 23 km approx.
Difficulty: Moderate
Terrain: Mainly footpath and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Possible but tricky, two buses via Carrisbroke or Newport – check Traveline website.

Start walking on the coast path west out of Ventnor. You will come across a large sign of ‘VENTNOR’ carved into the Cliffside. This marking first appeared in 1934. When war broke out in 1939 it was removed for obvious reasons but it has been refurbished several times since then.

About a mile further along is Castle Cove. This is one of a small number of bays caused by the erosion of soft rocks between headlands of more resistant materials. Steephill Castle was built here in the 1830s and was demolished in 1910 - hence the name of the cove. It was a mansion built in the style of a castle.

On this walk a number of thatched cottages can be seen. Also on this path there is a derelict building in the shape of a hut – perhaps it was a fisherman’s cottage or possibly a fish smoking hut.

Soon after St Lawrence, the path goes across the downs with good view of the sea. The start of this walk is called the Undercliff – a narrow strip of land-slipped terrain between the sea and the high cliffs. After a few miles, following The Pilgrim’s Path, (not quite sure why it is called this) there is a good view of St Catherine’s Lighthouse which was built in 1840. It is one of the most powerful lighthouses in the UK with a range of 26 miles.

After Blackgang Chine (where there is an activity centre, rides and Victorian cliff-top gardens) follow the path and road to Chale. At this point the path leads back to the coast with views of Chale Bay and its red sand. The path goes past Atherfield Point then Shepherd’s Chine. A chine is a deep cut ravine. Views near here of Compton Bay.

When I walked this section much of the coastal path was closed due to erosion and I had to walk mostly along the main road to Brighstone. During this long, boring and dangerous walk (no pavements) I came across a bus stop with the name ‘Middle of Nowhere’ – the X40 bus stops here. I agree with the description but wondered who on earth gets off in the middle of nowhere!

The walk finishes at the old village of Brighstone (previously known as Brixton – where I was born - but in London). St Mary’s Church has stood for 8 centuries and there is an old shop and museum owned by the National Trust. It displays information about village life in the past and celebrates the achievements of the Brighstone lifeboats. The pub (tried and tested and gets a tick), The Three Bishops, is named after three rectors from here who went on to become famous bishops.

Snaps show: Shepherd's Chine; Castle Cove; two views across  Chale Bay including the red sand.

Walk 99 Isle of Wight Bembridge to Ventnor

 Walk  99  Isle of Wight- Bembridge to Ventnor

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 196

Distance: 10 miles or 17 km approx.
Difficulty: Moderate
Terrain: Mainly footpath and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: a bit long, bus 8 from Bembridge to Ryde then Bus 3 from Ryde to Ventnor - (takes about 1hr 30min).

Start on the coastal path at Bembridge, this cuts inland on the map but I managed to find a way along the sea front. After about a mile you get an attractive view of Whitecliff Bay. The cliffs here are made from soft clay and they are constantly crumbling and slipping. Be aware that path diversions are possible here and on other sections of the walk around the Isle of Wight.

During the 1920s and 1930s huts and chalets were built above the beach at Whitecliff and people lived in them during the summer. Boys’ Brigade and Girl Guides have been camping around the area since the 1900s. As can be seen, there are many caravans here now and this has been the case since the Second World War. I understand some of them are quite luxurious.

The next major landmark is at Culver Cliff on the edge of Bembridge Down. An impressive monument to Lord Yarborough cannot be missed. His ship, The Falcon, a 20 gun ship of war, was launched in 1926. In 1827 he was involved in the battle of Navarino and in 1835 he was badly injured in a gale when on the ship. He bought a smaller ship later but died suddenly in 1846. He was Commodore of the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes hence this memorial on the island. 

The walk continues along cliffs with views to the town of Sandown. The town grew very quickly after the railway was built here in 1864. Its charms had been recognised by famous celebrities of the day including Charles Dickens, Lewis Carroll, George Elliot and John Keats. Sandown remains very popular with holiday makers with its sandy beaches and pier. Look out for the Dinosaur Museum which celebrates the fact that this is a good place to look for fossils. The pier dates back to 1879 and despite a major fire in 1989 (why do piers suffer from so many fires?) is now thriving with indoor attractions. Some good photos can be taken from the end of the pier which is open all year.

The next town is Shanklin. It became a fashionable spa after the arrival of the railway in 1864. Its waters were found to be rich in iron salts with considerable healing powers. If you have time, it is worth a visit inland to the old village of Shanklin with its picturesque buildings.

The path to Ventnor is inland and follows a road for some of the way. The path returns to the coast near Monks Bay. Nearer to Ventnor are some intriguing conical type rocks that look like they are sea defences. I have not been able to establish why they are this shape.

Ventnor stands on terraces below St Boniface Down which, at 785 feet, is the highest point on the island. The resort was established in Victorian times. The area has its own microclimate and experiences more sunny days than much of the UK. This has led to the establishment of the Botanical Gardens which are able to support sub-tropical plants. Worth a visit if you are interested. Brian Murphy the man who played George in George and Mildred on TV was born here.

Snaps show: Sandown Beach; Whitecliff Bay; Lord Yarborough monument; the sea defences at Ventnor; Ventnor front.

 

Walk 98 Isle of Wight - Fishbourne to Bembridge

 Walk  98  Isle of Wight- Fishbourne to Bembridge

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 196

Distance: 11 miles or 18 km approx.
Difficulty: Fairly easy
Terrain: Mainly footpath and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: A little tricky, it involves getting a number 9 bus at Fishbourne and changing en route to a number 8 for Bembridge. Go to Traveline website for more details.

Public access to the coast between East Cowes and Fisbourne was not possible when I visited and no public paths are marked on the map. However, while in this area it is well worth visiting Osborne House designed by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. It was their second home and Queen Victoria died here. A good view of their private beach can be had from the house.

The walk starts on the coastal path near Fishbourne close to Wooton Creek. The ferries going into the port at Fishbourne can be seen from here. The path makes its way inland to Ryde with only brief glimpses of the sea (Ryde Roads). One distinctive landmark is Quarr Abbey. This was erected by French Benedictine monks between 1908 and 1914. It is built on the site of a medieval abbey dating back to 1132 and destroyed in 1536 at the time of the Dissolution.

The walk into Ryde passes a lake adjacent to the beach where some odd boats are made in the shape of very large swans! Ryde pier is half a mile long and is the fourth longest in the UK. A railways runs along the pier and there is an electric rail connection from the pier to nearby Shanklin. The trains are ex London Piccadilly underground trains. Ryde has been a point of strategic defence and was fortified by cannons against a possible invasion by France in Napoleonic times. The front is neat with a few attractive buildings. The beaches are sandy and very popular. On the way out of Ryde, and near to the beach, is Appleby Tower, a Victorian watchtower. You can go to the top of this on certain dates and you can also have your fortune told!

Continue round to Nettlestone Point where the beach is stony and there is a large wildlife park. The coastal path cuts inland soon after this and returns to the coast at St Helens.

St Helen’s Church, on the beach near St Helens, is a significant landmark. It was built about 1220 and ceased to be used in 1703 when it was bricked up. At this point it became a source for 'holy' stones which were taken by sailors to scrub down the decks of wooden ships. On the 14^th September 1805 Lord Nelson boarded HMS Victory, which was anchored nearby, to sail to the Battle of Trafalgar.

Follow the path across Bembridge Harbour. I noted a very interesting guest house (4 star) formed from a houseboat and guarded by two statues of pirates! Bembridge village is inland up a hill. It is worth a visit if only to see the windmill – the only one surviving on the Isle of Wight. It was known to be in existence in 1740 but may well be older. Turner started a water colour of it in 1795 (not sure whether it was finished). There was at least one woman miller in the past. The mill was last used in 1913.

The beach at Bembridge is very picturesque although the infamous ‘Ledges’ lie off the beach and several ships have foundered on these. The Crab and Oyster pub is adjacent to the beach if you fancy a drink and/or a meal.

Snaps show: St Helen’s Church; Osborne House; Appleby Tower, Ryde; Bembridge Bay.

Walk 97 Hayling Island to Portsmouth

 Walk  97  Hayling Island to Portsmouth

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 197 and 196

Distance: 13 miles or 22km
Difficulty: Easy
Terrain: Mainly footpath and pavement
Access: Parking near The Ship Inn, Langstone and in Portsmouth
Public transport: Rail to Havant and walk to Langstone Bridge. Main line rail at Portsmouth where there appear to be plenty of buses to various destinations.

Starting on the mainland side of Langstone Bridge follow the path westwards and along the roads (including the main road) until joining the Solent Way to Farlington Marshes. This is a wildlife trust where notices caution you to take care of the protected species. Dogs must remain on their leads. I came across at least 100 birdwatchers sporting expensive equipment walking excitedly down the path. The snippets of conversation suggested that something rare had been spotted. An information board helps to identify the birdlife and some of the 300 species of plant found here. It is particularly rich in grasses – one third of the British types are said to grow here.

Follow the road, then turn left onto the path that skirts the edge of Portsea Island. This is not a walk of great beauty. The path is a fairly rough one and there is a need to return to the road at times. Apart from a sad memorial to a young dancer and good views of Hayling Island there is little to be said about this part of the walk.

The next main feature is the Royal Marines Museum opposite Eastney seafront. The old barracks nearby have been turned into flats. The eastern part of the beach at Eastney is designated as a danger area presumably because of unexploded shells etc.

Continue the walk to Southsea. Some quite impressive seafront buildings sit alongside more modern constructions. The beach is mainly gravel with sand exposed at low tide. The promenade goes past the South Parade Pier. This has been closed recently due to health and safety concerns. It was dismantled during World War 2 as it was feared it could aid an invasion. The pier, which includes a ballroom and a bar, was featured in the film ‘Tommy’.

Parallel to the seafront is Southsea Common which boasts some impressive elm and palm trees. The town, which is really part of Portsmouth, was built up in the early 1800s initially to house skilled workers. It was heavily bombed in World War 2.

Southsea Castle built by Henry V111 is near to a lighthouse. It was from a spot near here that Henry saw his flagship The Mary Rose sink. This partly restored ship can be seen in Portsmouth dockyard.

The large naval memorial listing those lost in shipwrecks stands prominently to the right of the promenade. Looking seawards this is a good spot to watch the various crafty coming in and out of Portsmouth harbour. Look out for the Nelson statue and the anchor from his flagship HMS Victory.

Further along is Clarence Pier built in 1861. This area features amusement arcades and fast food outlets. The pier was the location of Mind the Baby Mr Bean on TV! Looking out so sea a few concrete constructions can be seen. These are sometimes known as Palmerston’s (the Victorian prime minister) folly. He ordered them to be built as a defence against France when an invasion seemed likely. During World War 2 they came back into use when used as anti aircraft bases.

As you progress into Portsmouth there are several waterside forts to be seen - most were begun in the 1400s. Look out for Sally Ports which are openings in the fortifications enabling people to look out on to the harbour or estuary.

Walk along to Old Portsmouth where there is a part called Spice Island. Spices from the Caribbean once landed here and sailors frequented the many pubs which were open 24 hours a day. Press gangs roamed the streets on the lookout for unsuspecting drunks to put on ships as forced labour. A ferry runs from near here to Gosport on the other side of the estuary; Portsmouth Harbour Station serves this ferry.

Not be missed is the Spinnaker Tower. It is worth the money to go up the tower and experience a panoramic view of the whole area. The tower is 170 metres high and was opened in 2005. It takes its design from the main sail of an ocean going yacht. From here can be seen the waterside which consists of apartments and shops at Gunwharf Quay. The naval dockyard can also be seen and is well worth a visit if you have plenty of time. HMS Victory, HMS Warrior and The Mary Rose are among the attractions.

Snaps show: Spice Island, Portsmouth; Clarence Pier, Southsea; view to the dockyard from Spinnaker Tower; Gosport Ferry, Porstmouth.