Walk 26 West Mersea to Brightlingsea (Essex) via passenger ferry

Walk 26    West Mersea to Brightlingsea (Essex) via passenger ferry

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 7 miles

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: roads and paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: The 67 bus runs from Colchester to West Mersea and 78X from Brighlingsea back to Colchester. With changes always on the cards it is wise to check these out before going.

Passenger ferry: Runs in the busy times every day e.g. in 2011, July 23 to September 24. From April 22 to October 30 it runs a scheduled service at weekends only. Contact number for the ferry is: 0781450169 or 01206302200 and up to date information on www.brightlingseaharbour.org/ferry.html

As can be seen from the above, going during the winter would mean a separate journey to Brightlingsea (although the ferry website states that a service may run out of season depending on the weather and crew availability).

Mersea Island is accessed to the north by a causeway called The Strood. The island’s isolated position made Mersea a popular haunt for smugglers; it is the most easterly inhabited island in the UK. Start the walk along the road near to the car park at the east end of West Mersea village. A small path takes you down on to the beach. Return to the road to continue the walk. If you are a fan of sea food a local establishment called The Company Shed on Coast Road sells and serves a variety of locally caught seafood including the local flat oyster. Nothing posh here, the focus is on the quality of food. The road eventually meets up with the coastal path passing by caravan and camping sites – it is a popular area for summer time visitors.

The path winds its way round past the mud and sand before turning inland up a track where you will pass St Edmund’s church. The rector here from 1870-1881 was Sabine Baring-Gould author of Onward Christian Soldiers. Next is East Mersea which is popular with visitors especially in the better weather (caravan and camping sites available at this end of the island too). Follow the road past Bromans Farm then the footpath to Cudmore Grove Country Park. This is an attractive well-cared for haven for nature, especially wildfowl. Continue along the path to the ferry.

On arrival at Brightlingsea take some time to stroll both ways along the front. The town is the only Cinque port outside of Kent and Sussex. It still swears allegiance to the mayor of Sandwich (Kent) in a 400 year old ceremony. The attractive town has a rich maritime heritage and a Bronze Age site was found here in 1990. It was expanded primarily for fishing (particularly oysters) and shipbuilding but only vestiges of these industries remain. Yachting is now very important and it is the home of international and national championships.

On the west beach are beach huts and nearby the recently restored, slightly leaning, Bateman’s Tower. This folly was built in 1883 by John Bateman to help his consumptive daughter recover. In the town, Jacobs Hall is reputed to be the oldest timber framed building in England.

Brightlingsea made the news in 1984 during the miners strike when there was an attempt to import coal – this was thwarted by pickets. In the 1990s live animals were exported to Europe from here amid strong protests about their transport conditions. The scale of the protests led them to be called ‘The Battle of Brightlingsea’.

Snaps: three views of Brightlingsea and two of West Mersea.

Walk 25 Goldhanger to Tollesbury (Essex)

Walk 25  Goldhanger to Tollesbury (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 11 miles

Difficulty: easy, flat - a little hilly at the end

Terrain: roads and paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Goldhanger to Tollesbury buses now seem to go just on Saturdays - four journeys each way every 2 hours.

This is a peaceful walk with good views across the River Blackwater (although I went on a sunny day which helps).

Rejoin the walk at Goldhanger where the northern side of Osea Island can be seen. Follow the coast path around for about a mile or so to Joyce’s Marsh. This area has been the subject of considerable successful conservation work. The Blackwater Wildflowers Association has restored and improved the marsh so that it benefits wintering wildfowl, waders and other wildlife. Ancient Red Hills, relics of the Roman salt industry, have been preserved.

About a mile further on is Gore Saltings which was once an area where salt was extracted for the trade in Maldon. Further along, just past Mill Creek, was the site of the Kelvedon to Tollesbury Light Railway (marked on the OS map) which for 20 years of its life was extended to a pier near here. It was used for troops to access the river in World War 1 but was not functioning after 1921. The rest of the line went in the Beeching cuts of 1961. Tollesbury Pier was blown up in 1940 as protection against possible invasion.

Just before the path turns northwards at Shinglehead Point the Bradwell Power Station dominates the view of the opposite bank. Inland are Tollesbury Wick Marshes an area of special scientific interest because of the plants and birds. Progressing up this path West Mersea can be seen in the east.

The path works its way westwards to Tollesbury Marina. Sailing and fishing have always been popular here. Over 100 fishing smacks used to operate out of here and sail up Woodrolfe Creek to the sea. The catch has included sprats, scallops, crabs and oysters. At one time starfish were also caught and used for manure.

The Square in the village has some interesting old buildings including an old ‘lock up’.

Snaps show: Old Tollesbury Pier site; Joyce's Marsh; Tollesbury centre; Tollesbury marina; Shinglehead Point.

Walk 24 Maylandsea to Maldon and Goldhanger (Essex)

Walk 24  Maylandsea to Maldon and Goldhanger (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 12 miles

Difficulty: easy, flat

Terrain: roads and paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Buses D1/D2 go every hour from Maylandsea starting/returning to Maldon. Maldon to Goldhanger buses now seem to go just on Saturdays - four journeys each way every 2 hours.

The walk starts at Maylandsea following north along the marshy Lawling Creek before turning west towards Maldon. The flat expanse of Northey Island, owned by the National Trust, is soon visible. A causeway connects the island to the river side and is covered by the tides twice a day. It is mainly salt marsh and tidal creeks and is very popular with bird watchers. There are two houses on the island, one in the form of a tower can be rented for holidays and the other belongs to the caretaker of the house!

Soon after Limbourne Creek is the site of the Battle of Maldon which took place in 991. Further along you come to statue of a soldier brandishing a sword to mark this event. The epic battle involved the Anglo-Saxons defending the town against a Viking invasion. The Vikings won but the soldiers of the town fought to the last man. Their deaths and heroism were celebrated in a poem of the time and in modern times in a short play written in verse by JRR Tolkein.

Maldon is an old, picturesque well-cared for town that is well worth a stroll around. The Moot Hall has guided tours on Saturdays. This old tower has had many uses including as a prison and town hall. The family owned Maldon Salt Works were established in 1882 and is now the only business in England manufacturing crystal salt from seawater. Around New Years Day the Maldon Mud Race takes place to raise money for charity. Competitors run across the River Blackwater at low tide, run down the bank and run through the water again to get back.  Edward Bright, a grocer, known as the fat man of Maldon, was reputed to be the fattest man in England in the 18^th century. He was 47.5 stone – a case of eating the stock maybe! Maldon is also reputed to be the driest place in the UK with just 50 cm. of rain a year.

A bit of road walking is required to get to the other bank. The path winds its way past Heybridge Basin and Mill Beach then meets up with a path into Goldhanger. This part of the river provides a winter home to huge numbers of Dark Bellied Brent Geese. About one quarter of the world’s population come here or other parts of the Essex coast after breeding in the Arctic and Siberia.

Goldhanger is a pleasant village with a 14^th century pub (The Chequers) should you fancy a pint!

Snaps show: Maylandsea; Maldon river frontage; the statue for the Battle of Maldon.

Walk 23 St Lawrence to Maylandsea (Essex)

Walk 23  St Lawrence to Maylandsea (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 8 miles

Difficulty: easy, flat

Terrain: roads and paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Buses D1/D2 go every hour from Maylandsea starting/returning to Maldon. D1 goes to/from St Lawrence to Maylandsea every 2 hours or so. Both Monday to Friday but with cuts in the offing it is wise to check timetables.

The walk starts at the Stone in St Lawrence. This is a pleasant section with some good views across the River Blackwater. The path winds its way around for a mile or so then turns inland down a track by-passing Stansgate Abbey Farm. This is where the famous politician Tony Benn lived and there has been some controversy about access to the coast here being denied to the public. Before turning inland the eastern end of Osea Island can be seen.

This island has an interesting history. It was owned in the early 1900s by a member of the Charrington brewing family who was a leading light in the temperance movement. He had disinherited himself from the family business and opened a retreat on the island for wealthy alcoholics (known as gentleman inebriates) and opiate addicts. During World War 1 the island was taken over by 2000 sailors who were billeted there as part of the Coastal Motor Torpedo Force. It was also occupied by the forces during World War 2.  From 2005 to 2010 the Causeway Retreat was opened as a centre for dealing with addiction. Amy Winehouse, the late singer, was a patient there. However, it was found to be operating without a proper licence and was closed in 2010.

The path continues along Steeple Creek and down Mayland Creek. This inlet seems to go on for a long time before winding around to the opposite bank. The path northwards up the opposite side of Mayland Creek was poorly marked when I walked this section so some educated guesswork needed. The path goes past small lakes and is adjacent to marshland at the top end of Mayland Creek and Lawling Creek. Follow the path around to enjoy a good view of Mundon Creek and the marina.

Maylandsea is popular with fossil hunters. Lobster fragments are most common but sharks teeth and other fish remains have been found. During World War 2 Maylandsea boatyard was home to the secret building of Motor Torpedo Boats and Launches used to hunt enemy submarines.

Snaps show: St Lawrence/Ramsey Island; looking towards Osea Island; two of the walk to Mayland.

Walk 22 Bradwell on Sea to St Lawrence

Walk 22   Bradwell on Sea to St Lawrence (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 10 miles

Difficulty: easy, flat

Terrain: roads and paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Bus D1 goes every couple of hours starting/returning to Maldon. It also goes from Bradwell on Sea to St Lawrence. Check timetables as some journeys involve changes.

Follow the Roman Road eastwards out of Bradwell on Sea. (It was once called Bradwell near the Sea which is probably more accurate as the village is over a mile from the nearest water.) Go past East Hall Farm to St Peter’s Chapel which overlooks the North Sea.

‘St Peters on the Wall’ (the sea wall) is one of the oldest surviving chapels in England and is built on the site of Othona, a Roman fort. It is a simple barn like construction built in 654 by Bishop Cedd who travelled down from Lindisfarne. It was used by farmers for a while and bits are patched up where wagons entered. A pilgrimage is held here on the first Saturday of every July. I found it to be a picturesque spot on a sunny, calm day.

Continue northwards with the beach of St Peter’s Flat on the right. The path turns into the estuary of the River Blackwater with West Mersea visible on the opposite bank. The now decommissioned Bradwell Nuclear Power Station is a significant landmark at this point. It was built here partly because of easy access and the unlimited supply of cooling water. In 2010 it was one of eight sites identified by the government for a new generation of nuclear power stations. In part of the river opposite the power station is a long concrete structure – I have not been able to find out its purpose.

A mile or so past the power station is Bradwell Waterside. This is a narrow sheltered stretch of water with a marina and many boats. Opposite is Pewet Island where the remains of Saxon fish traps have been found. After passing Bradwell Creek the path goes inland for a little way before getting nearer to the water at St Lawrence Bay.

St Lawrence is a popular spot in the warmer months. There is a large caravan park and several visitors take advantage of the water-sports and sailing facilities. The waterfront village is often called ‘The Stone’ - this is also the name of a local pub.

Snaps show: St Peters on the Wall; Bradwell Waterside; St Peters Flat; the structure opposite Bradwell Power station. 

Walk 21 Burnham on Crouch to Tillingham

Walk 21 Burnham on Crouch to Tillingham (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 14 miles including walk inland to car/bus

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: mostly paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: If a bus is needed one way it may be easier to walk this backwards from Tillingham. Bus D4 leaves Burnham on Crouch at 9:33 and 11:33 (on weekdays) and takes about 30 minutes to get to Tillingham. The other way a bus goes from Tillingham at 2:05 but unless the walk is started very early would not allow enough time. There are buses after this at 3:47 and 6:35 but these involve 2 changes and lengthy journeys. Further info. on traveline.org.uk

As the map shows there is very little access to the coast except by the occasional farm track. After the northern turn away from the River Crouch estuary it is a walk alongside flat marshland; some may call it bleak but it has its own unique atmosphere. Don’t expect to see many other walkers on the second half of this walk.

Start the walk at the seafront of Burnham-on-Crouch. On the opposite shore is the ferry landing/embarkation point on Wallasea Island. When the Black Death ravaged England in the 14^th century the sailors of Burnham were the only men prepared to ship grain into London. As a reward they were given the right to land corn in the capital free of all taxes forever. (Now?)

Continuing along the estuary the buildings on the north of Foulness Island can be spotted across the estuary. The occasional World War 2 fortification can be seen near to the footpath, other wise the landscape is rather featureless. (Botanists and wildlife experts may well disagree with this!) 

Turning northwards near Holliwell there is a vast area called Ray Sand – at least there is if the tide is out. Along this part of the coast the tide goes out about 2 miles but comes in right up to the shore line. It can be very dangerous to walk on the sandy beaches, although, here and there, a few fishermen can be spotted on the nearby shore. Inland are Dengie and Tillingham Marshes. Dengie marshes have been denuded of trees in the last 30 years due to Dutch Elm disease – adding to its desolate appearance. It was a very quite and peaceful walk but would be less so if the military ranges to the south were active.

Follow the path up until it joins St Peters Path which then heads inland towards Tillingham. The path passes through Dots and Melons which turned out to be a farm building housing a tool wholesaler. The centre of Tillingham is a conservation area which includes a 15^th century pub called the ‘The Cap and Feathers’ and a church with a Norman nave, 13^thcentury chapel and 14^th century tower.

Snaps show: views along the walk including Dengie Marshes, Ray Sands, an old World War 2 fortification and the ferry crossing from Wallasea Island.

Walk 20 North Fambridge to Burnham on Crouch

Walk 20 North Fambridge to Burnham on Crouch (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 8 miles including walk inland to car/train

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: mostly paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport – Trains at North Fambridge and Burnham on Crouch – they leave every 40 minutes except for Sundays when once an hour.

Follow the road down from Fambridge station then the footpath that takes you to the walk along the River Crouch on the Dengie Peninsula. At low tide there are large areas of grassed marshland, rather attractive in their own way. The area was once land but in 1897 floods smashed through the river wall.

The walk continues around Bridgemarsh Creek opposite the marshy Bridgemarsh Island. Following a flood in 1736 a sea wall was built around the island and a causeway gave access at low tide. Farming took place and a brickworks was built (the chimney of which still survives on the island). A tramway linked the works with a quay visited by Thames barges. The major floods of 1953 resulted in the end of regular occupation of the island and it is now a haven for wildlife and salt marsh flowers. A trust looks after the area.

The path winds its way past Althorne Creek and on to Creeksea which is about a mile west of Burnham. This place (along with Bosham in Sussex) is said to be the site where King Canute tried to defy the tide. RAF fast rescue boats and motor torpedo boats operated from here during World War 2.

Burnham on Crouch is a very pleasant spot. Part of the town has elegant Georgian buildings. It has been called the Cowes of the east coast and is an important sailing centre. Every August the town hosts a festival of sailing. In earlier times it was a fishing port known for its oyster beds. A bi-annual pub crawl is held in fancy dress raising money for the Samaritans. Ian Drury and the Blockheads allude to the upmarket nature of the town in the song “Billericay Dickie”.

Return to the car or station which is about a mile inland.

Picture shows two scenes near North Fambridge.