Walk 200 Liverpool to Cressington (alongside the Mersey)

Walk 200 Liverpool to Cressington (alongside the Mersey)

(Fourth leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)

Map: L/R 108

Distance: 6 miles or 10 km approx

Difficulty: Easy, flat.

Terrain: concrete paved river walk

Access: Parking in both places

Public transport: Frequent trains between Cressington and Liverpool Central.

Although the walk starts near the Liver Building, Liverpool itself has much to offer of interest. At least a day can be spent looking around. I particularly enjoyed the Walker Art Gallery, The Roman Catholic Cathedral (known locally as Paddy’s Wigwam), Liverpool Cof E Cathedral designed by Gilbert Scott and, at 189 metres, the longest in the world, The Slave Museum, Rodney Street (for old photographic NT studio and pyramid tomb), The Philarmonic Pub and Matthew Street (Cavern Club). Some others are mentioned below on the walk.

Soon after The Liver Building is the Liverpool Cruise Terminal – a floating structure oepned in 2007. A bit further along is The Titanic Memorial which is dedicated to the 224 engine room staff who lost their lives. They remained at their posts supplying electricity and other amenities so others could survive. On the land side you cannot miss the impressive Port of Liverpool Building formerly the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board offices. Clad in Portland stone it is a listed building. In front of the building is the statue of Sir Alfred Lewis Jones a shipowner who was the founder of the Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine.

Departures for the world famous ferry across the Mersey are on the riverside. Past this point are a number of sculptures to admire. These include: Captain F J Walker 1896-1944 dedicated to him and all those who fought in the Battle of the Atlantic in World War 2; sculptures outside the Museum of Liverpool celebrating 2008 when the city was the European Capital of Culture; the propeller from the Lusitania which was torpedoed in 1915 with the loss of 1201 lives; the Working Horse Monument marking the importance of horses which for 250 years pulled goods around the city; Billy Fury the pop singer who died at 42. Near the Tate Gallery are sculpted figures commemorating the 9 million people who emigrated from Liverpool to the New World. I could go on!

This area, part of the Old Albert Dock, was a complex of buildings opened in 1846. It was a base for the Atlantic Fleet in World War 2. Near here is The Beatles Experience – I did not have time to go in here though.

Continue the walk past the Liverpool Museum (although you will need to wander back away from the river as well to appreciate all that is on offer in this former docks area). On the front is The Old Pilot Office in use between 1883 and 1978. It was the base for the service which is still use today, that of providing a pilot to vessels entering and leaving the Mersey.

Further along is The Liverpool Arena and the Ferris wheel. After this there is less hustle and bustle as the walk passes park land alongside the Mersey. Otterpool Promenade was opened in 1950 and was made by landscaping a waste disposal site. The name derives from the otters that inhabited a tidal creek that joined the River Mersey.

This walk is quite pleasant although the industry at Garston and beyond gets ever closer. You are nearing the end when you spot the large pink sculpture called Sitting Bull near to the river side at Aigburth. This is a sculpture created for a local garden festival in 1984. The walk for this part of t\he coast finishes at Cressington.

Photos show: Working horse sculpture, Albert Dock, Liverpool; part of Albert Dock; Otterpool; Sitting Bull, Aigburth.

Walk 199 Crosby to Liverpool

Walk 199 Crosby to Liverpool

(Fourth leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)

Map: L/R 108

Distance: 10 miles or 16 km approx

Difficulty: Easy mainly flat.

Terrain: coastal path, road walking (tedious at times)

Access: Parking in both places

Public transport: Frequent trains run between Hall Road Station (to the north of) Crosby and Liverpool Central.

The walk between Formby and Crosby is best avoided because of the dangerous areas that contain military rifle ranges leaving little access to the coast. The walk therefore starts to the north of Crosby on the coast near Hall Road Station.

The major feature of the Blundell Sands at Crosby is ‘Another Place’. This is a set of 100 life size sculptures of men looking out to sea. They are spaced out on 3 kilometres of beach and up to I km out at sea. They are secured on solid foundations and are cast iron replicas of the artist, Anthony Gormley. Some have become submerged and are gaining character as they are affected by the elements. See photograph underneath.

Crosby itself goes back to Viking times and the name originally meant ‘village of the cross’. Several well known people come from the area including Kenny Everett and Anne Robinson – Cherie Blair went to school here. Follow the cycle path down to Waterloo. On the opposite bank are the buildings of Wallasey.

The path skirts the Marine Lake before cutting inwards near Seaforth. Look out for the large mural which tells the story of the area between 1900 and 1914. It pictures The Dockers Umbrella, an overhead railway for dock workers, which was demolished in 1970. Also featured are The Titanic (many officers and crew lived nearby), old trams and a bathing machine.

From here on the walk to Bootle is a bit of a slog. The pavement is alongside a very busy and noisy main road. The docks and shipyards once stretched for ten miles but are now mostly concentrated on the Bootle waterfront. It is impossible to miss the busy entrance to The Port of Liverpool which deals with grain and containers (recently expanded and updated, I understand). Once the second biggest port by tonnage handled, Liverpool is now the seventh busiest.

Just before the Sandhills area, turn left along the A5038 which is a quieter road with more interesting buildings to see. Follow this road all the way into Liverpool. Many derelict buildings were evident when I walked this stretch. On a more positive note, on the River Mersey Side, the impressive Jesse Hartley Clocktower can be viewed through gaps in the walls/buildings. Built in 1848 it is also known as Victoria Tower and served as an aid to ships with accurate time and weather warnings. Look out for Stanley Dock on the left hand side of the road. This was also designed by Hartley and opened in 1848. It looked rather derelict when I walked past but it is a Grade 2 listed building purported to be the biggest brick building in the world with 27 million bricks. On the right hand side of the road is the old entrance to Clarence Dock (named after the Duke of Clarence who became William 1V). The dock was filled in 1929, then a power station was built on the site, then this was demolished in 1990. A plaque on the old dock wall explains that through the dock gates poured most of the 1,300,000 Irish migrants who fled the Great Famine between in Ireland between 1845 and 1852.

Further along, at the end of the road, is the modern frontage at Princes Dock- this area was redeveloped from the 1821 old docks.

The walk finishes at The Royal Liver Building – an iconic structure overlooking The Mersey. This is a Grade 1 listed building of 1911 and still houses The Royal Liver Assurance Group. It was one of the first buildings in the World to use reinforced concrete and was the tallest building in the UK until 1961. Be sure too look out for the Liver Bird sculptures on top of the building. This building and the tow next to it - The Cunard Building and The Port of Liverpool Building are known as The Three Graces.

More about Liverpool on the next walk.

Photos show: Another Place, Crosby - one of the sculptures, others in the background; the mural near Seaforth; Stanley Docks building, Liverpool; Jesse Hartley tower; Liver Building.

Walk 198 Southport to Formby (Lancs)

Walk 198 Southport to Formby (Lancs)

(Fourth leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)

Map: L/R 108

Distance: 13 miles or 20km approx

Difficulty: Easy, flat although if the tide is in and you have to walk along the dunes it could be more challenging

Terrain: coastal path, sand and pavement.

Access: Parking in both places

Public transport: Trains run between Southport and Formby

Most of the coast is inaccessible between Freckleton, Preston and beyond so I started the walk at Southport. It is worthwhile having a look around Southport before venturing on to the coastal walk.

Southport was founded in 1792. When an innkeeper built a bathing house here in the 19^th century it became popular with tourists due to its easy access from the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. In 1886 the worst lifeboat disaster in history occurred near the town when 28 lifeboat crew were drowned attempting to help a cargo ship.

The elegant, tree lined Lord Street in Southport, with its landmark war memorial and shops, is of particular interest. Napoleon 3^rd lived here before returning to France to become emperor in 1851. It is thought that the boulevards, covered walkways and shopping arcades in Paris were inspired by Lord Street.

Walk out of the town towards the Marine Lake going past the Queen Victoria Statue and on to the Marine Lake Promenade. A stroll northwards up this road past the casino is the old Southport Promenade Hospital, a grade 2 listed building of 1852. It is now luxury apartments but was an important military convalescent hospital during the world wars, then a specialist unit for spinal and orthopaedic injuries. It closed in 1990. On a lighter note, The Lakeside Inn, which was closed when I was there in 2013, claims to be the smallest pub in Britain with a bar of just 22 feet by 16 feet – I am not sure whether it still holds the record.

Cross the impressive Marine Lake Bridge and down the road to the pier. The lake opened in 1887 and is one of the largest man made leisure lakes in England.

A stroll just north of the pier gives a good view over the sands back to the River Ribble and Lytham. The pier, built in 1860, is a listed structure and starts a fair bit inland. It is the second longest pier in the UK after Southend and one of the first to be constructed using iron. Like most piers, it suffered a fire which caused it to be shortened. It was restored in the early 2000s after there were plans to demolish it. A tram runs from Southport Promenade to the end. This was originally installed to transport luggage from steam ships which stopped at the end of the pier.

The walk follows the road southwards and, providing the tide is out, there are 7 miles of golden sands to enjoy. The beach is popular with horse racing stables who use it for training; the three time Grand National Winner, Red Rum was often to be seen here. The sands have also been used for attempts at the land speed record.

Further down the promenade, look out for the structure which marks the end of the Trans Pennine Walking and Cycling Trail. It goes across the country finishing at Hornsea on the East Yorkshire coast. According to the information board much of it is surprisingly flat.

Continue the walk to Ainsdale on the Pennine Trail which runs parallel to the road. (It may be possible to walk along the dunes instead). On the roundabout at Ainsdale-on-Sea (Shore Road) there is a sculpture of an aircraft which commemorates ‘The Coronation Flight’ of May 1937. This was an important 24 hour transatlantic flight to New York by a twin engine monoplane which took off from the nearby sands. It became known as the Coronation Flight as the pilot was commissioned to transport newsreel coverage of the coronation of George V1. The nearby lake, which is part of the Sands Lake Nature Trail, is a good place to stop for a rest.

Near to the Velvet Trail (a circular walk) is access to the beach. I walked along the beach from here to Formby Point. Unusually, there are finger posts in the sand indicating paths inland. At Formby Point there is one marked into the town. Red squirrels live in the dunes. Christmas trees are donated to the National Trust and planted in the dunes to help prevent erosion of the sand dunes. The beach here is the location of the first lifeboat station in 1776. The last launch took place in 1916.

Further along the beach MOD notices warn of the dangerous rifle ranges. The noise of rifle fire gives fair warning!

Formby is a well off area with many Everton and Liverpool footballers choosing to live here. The ukulele player and comedian George Formby adopted the name of the town while waiting for a train.

Photos show: a view along Southport Pier with tram tracks; the marker at Southport Beach for the end of the Trans Pennine Walking and Cycling Trail; aircraft sculpture at Ainsdale; path signpost on the beach walk to Formby Point.

Walk 197 Blackpool to Freckleton (Lancs)

Walk 197 Blackpool to Freckleton (Lancs)

(Fourth leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)

Map: L/R 102

Distance: 15 miles or 25km approx

Difficulty: Easy, flat

Terrain: coastal path and pavement.

Access: Parking in both places

Public transport: 68 bus goes frequently between the two towns and takes about an hour

Start out at The Blackpool Tower which is well worth a visit (on another day). Don’t miss the ballroom and viewing platform as the views down the coast are stunning. The tower was opened in 1894 and was Britain’s highest building (518 feet) for many years. It is based on the Eiffel Tower and is made from 5 million bricks, 2500 tons of iron and 93 tons of cast steel. It is not free standing – the base is hidden by a building which houses the Tower Circus. There is a 7 year cycle of repair work undertaken by workers known as ‘stick men’.

On the promenade, near the tower, is The Comedy Carpet, a paved area which features jokes and catchphrases by over 1000 comedians. Good fun.

The walk from here south is known as The Golden Mile and includes Madame Tussaud’s waxworks as well as traditional seaside attractions. I went when the famous illuminations were on and although this can be a good time to visit it is a bit chancy with the weather. The town developed in the nineteenth century as developers saw the potential for cheap holidays aimed at low paid Lancashire mill workers and their families. The resort was greatly enhanced by the arrival of the railway.

About half a mile south of the tower is The Central Pier. In contrast to the more genteel North Pier the emphasis here is more on fun. It was built in 1864 and a Ferris wheel was added in 1990. Further down is The South Pier, also known as Victoria Pier, was originally intended to be more upmarket when built in 1893 but now contains a number of rides.

After a short walk the path moves away from the sea and passes Blackpool Pleasure Beach. This is the most visited tourist attraction in the UK and is in the top twenty amusement parks in the world. The slogan outside says: ‘See it, feel it, love it’. It was founded in 1896 and the scary ‘Big One’ was opened in 1994 – it was the tallest and fastest in the world at the time. Definitely not for me!

Returning to the promenade look out for the sculpture constructed in 2002 called ‘They shoot horses don’t they’. It is the world’s largest mirror ball and has 45000 mirror tiles. The name refers to the 1969 film about dance marathons of the American Depression; it links with Blackpool’s strong dance traditions.

After about half a mile the walk continues along the main road which is rather tedious. It may be possible to walk along the sand dunes but the wind was whipping sand up so I did not try it.

Just before the pier in Lytham St Annes is a specially commissioned sensory garden with a larger than life statue of the comedian Les Dawson. He lived in the town with his wife and daughter and described it as ‘so posh that when we eat cod and chips we wear yachting caps’. The town, which is also known as St Annes on Sea, was a planned development which opened in 1875. In recent times it has been an international centre for sand yachting activity but this was suspended in 2002 when a visitor was killed by a sand yacht. St Annes was the original centre for premium bonds – this has now been moved to Blackpool.

At Fairhaven Marine Lake and Gardens there is an impressive full size replica of a Spitfire. This is a tribute to airmen from the area lost in World War 2. The salt water lake built at the end of the 19^th century is an important wildfowl habitat. Back inland is an interesting white structure. I took a walk up to have a look. It is the Fairhaven United Reform Church which opened in 1912 and known locally as The White Church. It imitates Byzantine architecture and is probably a unique place of worship in the UK.

Continue along to Lytham and its landmark windmill. It was built in the 19^th century and functioned until 1919 when a gale caused a fire. It was restored in 1988 and now houses a museum telling the history of milling. The town overlooks the estuary of the River Ribble. Lytham was for many years dependent on fishing and shrimping then grew when seaside cures and tourism became popular. Now it is one of the wealthiest areas of Lancashire partly due to highly paid jobs at nearby BAE Systems.

Follow the Coastal Way out of Lytham, across the bridge and alongside the marsh to Warton Bank. The path skirts around Warton Aerodrome which was a depot for the US Air Force in World War 2. An air disaster in 1944 occurred when an aircraft attempting to land crashed into a school killing 61 people including 38 children. BAE took over the airfield in the 1960s and became its testing facility. High speed aircraft wreck the peaceful walk at times.

Take care with the walk into Freckleton as parts of it are difficult to identify and there is some very marshy ground nearby.

Photos show: a view south from the Blackpool Tower; 'They shoot horses don't they' glass sculpture in south Blackpool; Les Dawson sculpture, Lytham St Annes; Spitfire memorial, Fairhaven Marine Lake; windmill at Lytham.

Walk 196 Fleetwood to Blackpool (Lancs)

Walk 196 Fleetwood to Blackpool (Lancs)

(Fourth leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)

Map: L/R 102

Distance: 12 miles or 18km approx

Difficulty: Easy overall – a few hills but nothing strenuous.

Terrain: coastal path and pavement.

Access: Parking in both places

Public transport: Very good tram service between the two towns

During the summer this walk could be extended northwards to Knott End on Sea and up to Pilling Lane. A summer ferry runs between Fleetwood and Knott End (over the River Wyre) providing the weather conditions are suitable. I had a stroll up here but, at the time, it did not look the most attractive of places with an outlook over muddy sand.

At Fleetwood, a ferry used to run to Larne in Northern Ireland. The service to the Isle of Man stopped over 50 years ago. Fleetwood has three lighthouses. The Upper Lighthouse is referred to as The Pharos after one of the seven wonders of the world (then in Alexandria, Egypt). It is an impressive structure. Further round from the town is the lifeboat station built in 1858. It has a long and proud record of rescues which are recorded on a nearby plaque. An 'n' shaped sculpture depicting equipment used on a trawler is also close to the sea and is dedicated to the fishermen who served the community for generations. Further along is a sculpture of a family on the spot where wives and children welcomed their menfolk back from the sea. The fish port has declined since the 1970s.

Look out for the Lower Lighthouse built in 1840. A couple of miles out to sea is the Wyre lighthouse which is no longer in use.

On the land-side of the coast is The North Euston Hotel originally built to serve guests to and from Euston in London. Most then departed on steamers to Scotland. One of the passengers was Queen Victoria in 1847. In the 1850s the journey became obsolete with the opening of a direct rail link between London and Scotland. Fleetwood rail station was eventually closed as part of the Beeching cuts in the early 1960s. It was still a popular holiday resort at this time and John Lennon spent his childhood holidays here.

The North Euston Hotel was the centre piece of the development of the town undertaken by Peter Hesketh Fleetwood in 1831. The town, which is named after him, was landscaped into a half wheel shape using a sandy dune called The Mount as a focal point. This can be clearly seen from the promenade.

Further along the sea front is the old radar station which is a listed building. It was built for practical training and is now owned by a local college for nautical studies. Soon after this are Fleetwood Lakes. One of them is used by Blackpool and Fylde College for nautical training. An interesting looking vessel like a submarine was suspended over the lake when I went. Another lake is used by a model yacht and power boat club which was established when the lakes were formed in 1929. Both lakes are filled from the sea. You won't miss the many ducks, geese and swans wandering around on the grass. A notice nearby gives information about the mute swans that live here.

A flat concrete path adjacent to the sea wall leads in to Cleveleys. When the tide goes out golden sands are revealed beyond the pebbles. Helpful information boards identify landmarks, birds, seaweed, pebbles and shells. A cable connecting wind turbines out at sea to the National Grid comes ashore here.

Cleveleys is about four miles north of Blackpool. The town dates back to the nineteenth century and was named after a Mr Cleveley who built a hotel here. At the start of World War 2 several government departments were temporarily housed in the town. Some were in the nearby Rossal School which is an independent school founded in 1844 as a sister school to Marlborough College. Originally it was set up for the sons of clergymen but is now co-educational. It houses a space science and astronomy centre which (at the time of visiting) was the only one of its type in the UK.

On the way into Blackpool look out for the large and impressive Norbeck Castle Hotel with its 400 rooms, 22 conference centres plus pool and cinema. It was built in the 1900s and was popular with royalty and celebrities. If you go in late summer/autumn you may well start to see some of the highly creative Blackpool illuminations which go all the way into Blackpool and out the other side. Well worth a visit if you can go at the right time. Other landmarks to look out for on the walk into the town include: the tower (obviously), the Baroque style Cliffs Hotel, the emergency services sculpture and the 1867 Imperial Hotel (Charles Dickens and the current Queen have stayed at this impressive building).

This walk finishes at The North Pier which was built in the 1860s. It is the longest and oldest of Blackpool's three piers. It originally catered for the 'better class' market with orchestral concerts and 'respectable' comedians. It is a listed building which has survived despite damage from ships and fires. The 1500 seat theatre, built in 1938, has attracted a number of famous acts including Morecambe and Wise.

More about Blackpool on the next walk.

Photos show: The Upper Lighthouse, Fleetwood; The fishermen's sculpture overlooking Fleetwood beach; Dalek illuminations north of Blackpool town centre; Imperial Hotel Blackpool.

Walk 195 Grange over Sands, Arnside and Morecambe (Cumbria)

Walk 195 Grange over Sands, Arnside and Morecambe (Cumbria)

(Fourth leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)

Map: L/R 96/97

Distance: Kent Bank to Grange over Sands 2 miles/3 km approx. Arnsdie stroll is about a mile. Bolton Le Sands – Morecambe – Heysham -7 miles/11 km approx.

Difficulty: Easy

Terrain: coastal path and pavement.

Access: Parking in all 3 places

Public transport: Trains between Barrow and Kent Bank/Grange over Sands and Arnside. Arnside to Morecambe - change at Lancaster. Buses 5 and 755 go regularly between Morecambe and Bolton Le Sands

The coastal path often cuts inland and is not very close to the sea so I opted to visit the three places above by train.

Kent Bank station is a mile or so before Grange over Sands. This area was originally on the estuary of the River Kent but the path of the river has changed over the years. Looking back from Kent Bank is Humphrey's Head which is now a nature reserve. Legend has it that the last wolf in England was killed here.

Follow the path into Grange over Sands. If you were expecting a nice sandy beach (as I was) then you will be disappointed. What is actually there is a kind of marsh land with treacherous sand underneath. Many people have died over the years when the tide rushes in. No access to the beach is allowed. On the positive side the coast around here is home to 200,000 wintering wildfowl.

It is worth a stroll back into the rather pleasant town of Grange with its welcoming lack of supermarkets and quite impressive church. I hope Lancasters, selling an extensive range of hardware and other goods, is still going. Near the station is an attractive lake with ornamental gardens which used to be part of the beach.

Arnside is worth a visit to get a good view of the coast northwards and down towards Morecambe Bay. The tide rushes up the estuary here and notices warn that they are fast rising resulting in quicksands. A siren alerts all in the locality of the incoming tide. To walk across Morecambe Bay Sands requires a local guide and should never be attempted alone. The death of many cockle pickers a few years back is a sad testament to this. Arnside itself was originally a fishing village which became a resort with the arrival of the railway. There is an interesting looking building (photo underneath) which is a bit of a mystery. The walk on to Arnside Knott, a nature reserve managed by the National Trust, gives superb views of the coast.

It is possible to start the next part of the walk from Silverdale. However, I did not like the look of the inland walk nor the marshes around Carnforth and opted to start the walk at Bolton Le Sands. This is a pleasant old village whose name originated from the need to distinguish it from Bolton, Lancs and other Boltons. The Lancaster Canal built in the 1790s is a feature of the village.

Continue the walk past Hest Bank and on to Bare on the outskirts of Morecambe. Keep strictly to the path especially near Hest Bank. The walk from here on follows the promenade and occasionally on pavement all the way down to Heysham.

Morecambe was a thriving resort in the mid twentieth century. It was home to the Miss Great Britain contest between 1956 and 1989. Look out for the 3D map which identifies the hills on the opposite side of Morecambe Bay.

Near the centre of the town, on the seafront, is the clocktower and nearby the art deco Midlands Hotel. On the seafront is a sculpture of Eric Morecambe (real name Eric Bartholemew) who came from the town. A great photo opportunity! The Stone Jetty displays some interesting artwork, it was originally a railway terminus, built in 1853, which served the Irish and Scottish ferries. You cannot miss the Polo Tower which is a remnant of an old 'themed' fun fair park. It was a mobile phone mast when I went but there were plans to develop it into a high-tech landmark. Further down the road is the old Morecambe Station, an impressive building which now houses the information centre. (The new station, about half a mile away, is much less impressive and is a one platform affair). The derelict Battery Pub may no longer be there but was a reminder of the decline of the town as a resort. Efforts are now being made to revive Morecambe. At Sandylands there is a plaque marking the removal of the last of the two piers and an aquarium in 1992.

The walk finishes nearing Heysham. A ferry service to the Isle of Man runs from here. I returned and walked back to the centre of Morecambe although I wished I'd got a bus back as the skies opened.

Photos show: Grange over Sands 'beach'; interesting but unidentified building in Arnside; Eric Morecambe sculpture in Morecambe; a view south of Morecambe towards Heysham. 

Walk 194 Barrow in Furness to Ulverston (Cumbria)

Walk 194 Barrow in Furness to Ulverston (Cumbria)

(Fourth leg of English coastal walk – Gretna Green to Chester)

Map: L/R 96

Distance: 16 miles or 25km approx

Difficulty: Easy, mostly flat

Terrain: coastal path and pavement.

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Trains between Barrow and Ulverston

A fairly long walk with a confusing start. Follow the A5087 out of Barrow and take the road on the right after the railway bridge – this is the Cumbria Coastal Way also marked as the Cistercian Way (a walk that goes inland and follows a monastic theme). When I walked here there were a number of diversions which required a bit of guess work at times. Dilapidated old industrial buildings, sewage works and a power station provide much of the scenery. However, the walking became easier when the route followed a new cycle path.

The coastal way winds its way around to Roa Island which has not really been an island since the 1840s when a causeway and later a road were built. Not a lot to see here. It is home to about 100 people, there is a yacht club, an old watch tower and ferries can be caught to nearby Piel Island.

Continue the walk on the 'mainland' and along to Rampside. At low tide the sands stretch for 2 miles out to sea. The path from here to just outside Ulverston mostly follows the main road. In the 18^th century Rampside gained a reputation as a bathing resort and was frequented by the poet William Wordsworth. In 1865 a small earthquake caused serious damage to property. Rampside Lighthouse, also known as The Needle (for obvious reasons), was built in the 19^th century. Look out for Rampside Hall on the land side of the road – this listed building is well known for its 12 chimneys known as 'the twelve apostles'.

The next few miles include the small settlements of Roosebeck and Newbiggin. Although the map seems to show a beach route, I found that the only option was to follow the path inland at Aldingham. This is a very old settlement which is mentioned in the Domesday Book. Folklore has it that it that it used to be a much bigger place but it was wasted away by the tide. Look out for St Cuthbert's Church which was originally built in the 12^th century, with additions over the years. In the eastern wall of the church there is a hole where it is believed that lepers could observe the services. The church gets its name because Cuthbert's body was said to have rested here on its way to be buried at Durham Cathedral.

The path returns to the beach near Baycliff, a farming and fishing communitybefore it became an area for mining iron. Limestone is still quarried in the area. A few miles further up is the very old settlement of Bardsea with its stony beach. The area became associated with the Quaker movement when its founder, George Fox, married local land owner Margaret Fell. For a while Bardsea was an important port for iron ore until the canal at Ulverston took the business away.

Further along, Chapel Island can be seen offshore. In the 14^th century Cistercian monks from nearby Conishead Priory built a small chapel on the island. This no longer exists but a mock Victorian ruin can be spotted. You can cross the sands at low tide but local advice must be sought as the sands are very dangerous. I did not attempt this.

Alongside the path a notice on the fence invites walkers to tour the nearby Buddhist Temple – free of charge. Soon after this the path cuts inland opposite some interesting rock formations. Soon an old chimney, the remains of a local brickworks, comes into view.

Follow the path around to the canal foot at Ulverston where gates built in 1940 seal off the canal from the sea. The port here got silted up in the 18^th century so in 1796 the shortest (less than 2 miles), widest, deepest and straightest canal in England was built. During the 19^th century more than 500 ships sailed into the town every year and ship building flourished until 1878.

The path into Ulverston follows the canal and, although the buildings of Glaxo Smith Kline do little to enhance the beauty of the surroundings, the company do look after the canal and ensure it is home to a variety of wildlife including ducks, swans, dragonflies and diving beetles. Notices warn about the depth of the water.

On entering Ulverston look out for the lighthouse shaped tower on the hill. This was built in 1850 as a memorial to Sir John Barrow, a secretary to the admiralty who was born in the town. It is open to the public at certain times.

Be sure to go to the centre of Ulverston to see the Laurel and Hardy sculpture. Stan Laurel was born in the town in 1890 and there is a museum devoted to the pair nearby. The Stan Laurel Inn is nearby for refreshment!

Ulverston Station is a particularly well kept and attractive place to wait for a train.

Photos: the shore at Bardsea; interesting rock formation just before turning inland towards Ulverston; the gates of the Ulverston Canal where it meets the sea; Laurel and Hardy sculpture in Ulverston.