Walk 126 Starcross to Teignmouth (Devon)

Walk 126 Starcross to Teignnouth (Devon)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 192

Distance: 10 miles or 15 km approx

Difficulty: fairly easy

Terrain: road and coastal/river path

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Regular trains from Exeter St Davids in both directions

A very, enjoyable walk on a fine day – at other times, as it is very exposed, it could be unpleasant which would be a shame.

From Starcross, follow the path, then the road southwards, to Cockwood. This is a picturesque tidal harbour. The path is actually pavement all the way to Dawlish Warren – it is also alongside the main south west railway line from Paddington.

Dawlish Warren, seemed to me, to be a rather odd mixture of caravans, holiday parks, amusements and a nature reserve. The beach and reserve are attractive enough, although, despite being a warm September day, both were deserted. There were plenty of people around the other attractions.

The town of Dawlish is a mile or so further south. The path runs alongside the seaward side of the railway before crossing into the town. It passes the distinctive red cliffs and it is not hard to imagine how vulnerable the line is to the sea during rough weather conditions. It was wrecked during the storms and high winds of 2014. Originally, the line was going to run further away from the cliffs but this would have meant cutting across corners. Isambard Kingdom Brunel was busy blasting five tunnels in nearby rocks and some of these tunnels can be seen on the walk. A local author reckoned that Dawlish is probably the only town in England that has its railway station on the seafront and town centre at the same time. In 1765 Dawlish appeared on maps as a fishing village, then sea bathing became very fashionable after George 111 used it for improving his health leading to its development as a resort.

The path continues to Coryton’s Cove which is only a short distance from Dawlish. The red sandstone here was formed 250 million years ago when the area was a vast arid desert surrounded by older mountains. The red iron oxide cements the sand grains together. This cove has one of the most sheltered beaches on this stretch of coast as it is exposed to only easterly winds. At the time when bathing was segregated it was reserved for gentlemen’s bathing. Above the cove is Lea Mount with good views back to Dawlish.

Continue to Holcombe where, after a diversion inland, the coast is rejoined at the point where the railway line appears out of one of Brunel’s famous tunnels. Take time to look back at the red cliffs and Shag Rock poking out of the sea.

The final destination on this walk is Teignmouth (pronounced ‘tinmouth’, I learnt to my embarrassment) - another pleasant place to rest and admire the sea views. The town has suffered in wars and was burnt down in 1690 during a French raid. The poet Keats must have appreciated the place as he brought his ailing brother Tom to the town. The father of computing Charles Babbage (1791-1871) was  a resident here.The pier was built in 1865 and was originally 700 feet long with provision for concerts and dances; it still has arcades, rides and children’s entertainment. From the harbour, granite was shipped to build the old London Bridge. The town originally developed around the old Saxon church of St Michael. Fishermen’s cottages and salterns (seawater pools) and salt huts for processing salt were once here. Various trading activities date back to the 13^th century and the port still handles clay, timber and grain. A lot of ship building has also taken place in the area. During the Napoleonic Wars 68 vessels were built and in World War 2 around 100 were built for The Admiralty.

Walk to the estuary of the River Teign. The river runs about 60 miles from its source in the peaty bogs of Dartmoor. From the harbour, the small lighthouse can be seen. It was built in 1846 to guide ships into the harbour entrance. On the stroll around this area look out for some of the modern sculptures which adorn the front. Inland, the road bridge can be seen but this is a very along walk around. Fortunately, The Shaldon Ferry is available to take you to the other side for the start of the next walk.

Photos show: Coryton's Cove; rail tunnels and walk alongside rail line near Holcombe; Teignmouth front and pier; River Teign looking inland to road bridge.

Walk 125 Exeter to Starcross (Devon)

Walk 125 Exeter to Starcross (Devon)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 192

Distance: 12 miles or 18 km approx

Difficulty: fairly easy

Terrain: road and coastal/river path

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Regular trains from Exeter St Davids in both directions

It is worth spending a few hours or more in Exeter including the 14^th century cathedral which was badly damaged in World War 2 and the Roman walls which go around the city.

From St David’s Station cross the River Exe at the first crossing point. In the thirteenth century a weir was built here by the Countess of Devon and this blocked the port. However, a lawsuit was decided in favour of the Exeter citizens and the weir was removed. Unfortunately, the river had silted up making navigation impossible. As a result Exeter Canal was completed in 1566 by engineer John Trew. The northern end of the canal can be seen a little further along the walk.

Continue alongside the river to the quayside. You don't need to use it but it was 30p to get the ferry to the other side when I went – there are some attractive outdoor eating/drinking places and an 18^th century custom’s house on the quayside.

Further along is the canal basin. This was the last extension to the Exeter Ship Canal built in 1830. It provided reliable deep berths in the heart of the city for large sea going vessels. This helped to increase trade and contribute to Exeter’s wealth. The canal is over 5 miles long and goes alongside the River Exe. A huge variety of goods passed along the canal but the amount started to decline when the railways came in 1844.

Continue along the path to the Kings Arms sluice and Trew’s Weir. A double lock beyond here allows two vessels to park side by side, which is an unusual feature. Beyond this is the site of old lime kilns on the opposite bank. The limestone came mainly from Torbay and Plymouth and the high temperatures in the kilns produced quicklime – this was spread on the land to improve the soil and for speeding up the decomposition of bodies after burials.

The Turf Canal Basin further south allowed vessels to wait for a suitable tide, wait for fair weather or transfer goods between sea craft. Ships sailed to here from as far away as the West Indies. The Turf Lock Hotel which is still here would have been a busy cosmopolitan place. Look out for the old cottage, a small dwelling for the lock keeper – it is very near to the waterside. From here you can see Topsham on the opposite bank. Soon after this the canal merges with the River Exe.

About a mile along the river are the grounds of Powderham Castle. The building, which is the home of the Earl of Devon can be seen on the hilltop.

This part of the walk ends at Starcross. A ferry runs from here to Exmouth on the opposite bank of the river. Look out for The Atmospheric Railway pub on the seafront road. This is named after the Brunel built railway (this still runs from along this coast from Paddington to Penzance) which was originally designed as a revolutionary ‘atmospheric railway’. Two pump houses drew air out of a pipe between the rails and this produced a vacuum which worked a piston that in turn propelled the trains. The effects of the weather, rats and mice jamming the pistons (they ate the grease of the leather air tight seals) meant horses then had to be used to pull the trains. All this meant the expensive experiment ended in 1848 and steam then diesel (still diesel) took over.     

Photos show: Butt Ferry at Exeter Quayside; River Exe with Exeter on the opposite bank; Lock-keeper's cottage; Atmospheric Railway Pub at Starcross. 

Walk 124 Budleigh Salterton to Lympstone, Exton, Topsham, A La Ronde

Walk 124 Budleigh Salterton to Lympstone with visits to Exton and Topsham and suggested trip to A La Ronde (Devon)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 192

Distance: 11 miles or 17kmm approx  (includes walks around Exton and Topsham)

Difficulty: moderate

Terrain: cliff paths, road and lower coastal paths

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Bus 157 goes hourly between Budleigh and Exmouth, a train leaves hourly for Lympstone from Exmouth Station

Leave Budleigh Salterton by climbing up the coastal path on to the cliffs of West Down. From here there is a good view of Littleham Cove and Otter Cove with their distinctive red rocks. When I walked along here there was sporadic gun fire from the military range at Straight Point – the path must be strictly kept to and danger avoided. To the right is a huge caravan site of over 2000 units. The estuary of the River Exe can be seen in the distance.

Continue along the cliffs above Sandy Bay and down on to the road which leads in to Exmouth. Walk past the lifeboat station and to The Point then navigate along the roads to the main sands (Exmouth rail station is near here). The town was a fishing village from pre Roman times and be the end of the 12^th century was one of Devon’s main ports. The town became a popular resort in the mid 18^th century when many fine Georgian houses were built. The front is quite attractive with its distinctive clock-tower and wide sands (when the tide is out).

Follow the coastal path out of Exmouth and continue to Lympstone. This is a small attractive coastal village. To the north of Lympstone are the Lympstone Barracks – which house the Royal Marines.

The next two points can be reached by rail or car. Walking is possible but involves a tedious trudge along various roads inland.

Exton is on the single track rail line from Exmouth to Exeter. The mudflats, sandbanks and marshland of the estuary of the Exe are of international importance and provide thousands of habitats for birds and other wildlife.

At Topsham look out for the houses that have been converted from old storehouses and sail lofts. These date from the town/village’s heyday as a major British port and shipbuilding centre. There are several Dutch style buildings – these stem from the wool and cotton exported from here – Dutch bricks acting as ballast in the ships were brought in on the return journey.  The shop on the high street has a mural which reflects Topsham’s past.  The museum has interesting information about  Topsham including a section on the actress Vivien Leigh. Her connection with the village is through her one time husband Leigh Holman whose sister lived in the house which is now the museum. She founded the museum and made several donations connected with the actress.

Close to Lympstone is the unique building ‘A La Ronde’ owned by the National Trust. This 16 sided house, once owned by two spinsters, is well worth a visit. On their return from a grand tour of Europe in the late 18^th century the ladies designed this unique building and included a shell gallery, feather frieze and other idiosyncrasies. This is best visited by car.

Photos show: Littleham, Otter Coves and Straight Point; Sands at Exmouth; Exmouth front and clock tower; single track railway line near Exton; Topsham; A La Ronde.

Walk 123 Sidmouth to Budleigh Salterton (Devon)

Walk 123 Sidmouth to Budleigh Salterton (Devon)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 192

Distance: 8 miles or 12km

Difficulty: moderate

Terrain: mainly cliff paths

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Bus 157 goes hourly between the two towns

Walk out of Sidmouth up the cliff and along to Peak Hill. There are good views of the coastline from here. Continue along to Ladram Bay.

Several fossils have been found in this area including one of a rynchosaurus – one of the oldest known plant eating reptiles. The reddish brown cliffs that can be seen here are made from Otter sandstone, they were formed in the Triassic period 220 million years ago. Their striking colour is caused by iron oxide – this indicates that the climate was hot and dry all those years ago, similar to that of the Arabian Gulf and South Africa today.

Further along the path is Brandy Head. It derives its name from smuggling which was once rife along this coast. Contraband was landed more safely at night out of the sight of the customs men. In World War 2 the headland was used to test new aircraft mounted gun sights. Evidently, local boys used to climb up and hide under the hedgerows to watch the planes practice air strikes.

Continue the walk along to Budleigh Salterton. As you approach the town there is a walk inland alongside the River Otter before crossing on to a road then walking back down the river south into the town.

The pleasant walk along Budleigh seafront is marked by a war memorial at the top of the hill and Straight Point can be seen across the sea in the distance. Salt panning during Roman times gave the town its name. Sir John Millais’s painting ‘The Boyhood of Raleigh’ was painted near here. A local ferryman and the artist’s two sons were models and the sea wall can be seen in the painting.

The town has the largest croquet lawn outside London. Look out for the steamer steps along the promenade, this was a stopping point for these boats many years ago.

Photos show: a beach near Ladram Bay; Ladram Bay; Budleigh Salterton

Walk 122 Seaton to Sidmouth (Devon)

Walk 122 Seaton to Sidmouth (Devon)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 192

Distance: 11 miles or 16km approx.

Difficulty: moderate

Terrain: coastal path

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: X53 or 52A bus goes between the two towns every hour or so

Leave Seaton and follow the South West Coastal Path around to Beer. Corny as it sounds, I felt that I had to have a beer in Beer and there are is a pub near the front which sells good ale. (I forgot to note its name though). The village is spread along 13 valleys. Look out for Beer Brook which runs down the side of the main street.

This area is famous for smugglers and Lace. Queen Victoria’s wedding dress was made here. Leave the village by climbing on to the cliffs that lead to Beer head. The cliffs provided shelter for a fleet of small fishing boats winched up on to the shore at night.

Continue along the cliffs for about a mile and descend the hill to Branscombe Mouth. The views of the beach, village and cliffs are stunning. The valley was carved out in the last ice age, 15000 years ago. One of the buildings, now an outlet for food and drink, is a former coal wharf and boat house. The area has been a rich source of lobsters, crabs and other seafood. The cliff tops have plenty of live stock and local farmers have produced a range of goods including beer and cheese. The Branscombe Vale Brewery is nearby. An old forge, mill and bakery in the village are owned by the National Trust and are worth a diversion inland to visit. Look out for the large anchor near the front, this is from a ship beached here in 2007. Containers were swept off the ship and treasure seekers from all over the UK descended on the beach to plunder the containers and two days of chaos ensued.

Further along the coastal path is Hooten Landslip. In 1790 about 15 million tons of sand and chalk cliff subsided in the middle of the night. The red colour of the cliffs here is evidence that they were formed when the area had hot dry deserts – similar deposits can be found in Death Valley, California.

The next notable landmark is Weston Mouth. The hamlet of Weston lies at the top of the ‘combe’ or valley created by a water course cutting through the chalk and softer sandstone of the hills. Combes are typical features of the East Devon coastline.

Continue the walk along to Dunscombe Cliffs. Much of this area is a National trust nature reserve. Some of the greyer cliffs near here were used by stone masons when building Windsor Castle and Westminster Abbey.

From Salcombe Hill there is a panoramic view of Sidmouth. The River Sid comes out here. The town was fashionable long before the likes of Exmouth and Torquay and was saved from over development by the late arrival of the railway (since closed). The seafront has a number of Georgian and Regency buildings and cottage style houses. They reflect a time when fashionably dressed people strolled along the prom and hired bathing machines and sedan chairs. Sidmouth was given royal approval in 1819 when the Duke of Kent came here with his daughter Victoria – later to become queen. Many people have retired here as it is considered a healthy spot to live. The author Ronald Delderfield, who wrote ‘To serve them all my days, has a plaque indicating that he lived here.

Photos show\; Beer beach looking towards Beer Head; Branscombe; Weston Mouth; Looking eastwards at Sidmouth.

Walk 121 Lyme Regis to Seaton

Walk 121  Lyme Regis to Seaton (Devon)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 193

Distance: 8 miles or 12 km approx

Difficulty: Very challenging – care needs to be taken underfoot – there is a warning near the start of the walk

Terrain: coastal path

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: X53 bus goes between the two towns every couple of hours

This walk appears to be easy on paper. However, the uncertainty of the surface underfoot can make it hazardous. I saw two people who had fallen and being treated for cuts. You have to look down and take things slowly. A warning notice alerts walkers to the fact that the walk is only a few miles but may take much longer than expected.

Start the walk on the front at Lyme Regis near the clock tower.  Lyme Regis marks the border between Devon and Dorset. It was a fashionable watering place in the 18^th century and was evidently very popular with the citizens of Bath. The buildings surviving from that time means it retains much of its charm. The beach is famous for its fossils and this is reflected in The Fossil Shop on the main street. During the 19^th century, Mary Anning, who became a famous fossil hunter, discovered some of the first fossils that has made this area famous and led it to become known as the Jurassic Coast. The huge ammonites and shells were from life here around 180 million years ago. 

Walk along the harbour and to The Cobb which was originally a sea defence built in the 13^th century. It has literary and historical associations. For example, it has seen ships set sail to fight in The Hundred Years War and the Spanish Armada. Lyme MP George Summers left from here on a journey which led to the discovery of The Bahamas. In Jane Austen’s Persuasion, Louisa Musgrave took a tumble from The Cobb to blight the prospects of the heroine Anne Elliott. In the film of The French Lieutenant’s Woman, Meryl Streep was filmed looking out to sea – lots of people were seen posing this when I visited!

Continue to Monmouth Beach. In 1685 the Duke of Monmouth landed here and began his ill fated challenge for the throne of his uncle, James 2^nd – this ended in bloody fashion at the Battle of Sedgemoor. Twelve of his men were subsequently hanged in Lyme Regis.

The path out of Lyme Regis can be accessed from Monmouth Bay. As explained above this path has a warning notice: ‘The terrain can be difficult and walking arduous and will take around 4 hours’. It also states that there is no access to the sea. Only glimpses of the coast can be seen on this stretch. One landmark in the first half of the walk is a ruined building that was once a freshwater pumping station and an engineer’s house. Water was pumped up from here to a nearby estate and used as drinking water.

Further along, Downland  and Bindon Cliffs are famous for their enormous landslips. On Christmas Eve 1839 an enormous piece of these cliffs tore free from the mainland to form a deep chasm. It carried huge chunks of wheat and turnip fields and became an area known as Goat Island – a Victorian tourist attraction for some time.

At the end of the walk, approaching Seaton, look out for the tree sculpture which is formed into a grabbing hand (complete with fingernails). To get into Seaton you cross The Axmouth Old Bridge which was opened in 1877 but has been closed to traffic since 1990. This is the oldest standing concrete bridge in England. Axmouth Harbour which is to the south of the bridge has existed since Roman times. A tramway runs up the side of The River Axe and it is worthwhile (at another time) taking a tram to look at the river and wildlife.  

Look out for the clock tower which provides a suitable background to some pleasant landscaped gardens. A large holiday camp nearby was once used as an internment camp in World War 2. Large pebbles from the beach have been sent as far afield as New Zealand for paint blending and rubber processing.

Photos show: Beach and clock at Lyme Regis; Main Street and Fossil shop, Lyme Regis; Lyme Harbour; The Cobb; Monmouth Beach; Hand sculpture near Seaton; Seaton front and clock tower.

Walk 120 Bridport to Charmouth (near Lyme Regis) Dorset

Walk 120 Bridport to Charmouth (near Lyme Regis, Dorset)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 193

Distance: 10 miles or 16 km approx.

Difficulty: moderate with some challenging parts

Terrain: coastal paths

Access: Parking in Bridport and Charmouth.

Public transport: Regular bus service between the two towns, X53, X31 or 76.

This walk could be continued to Lyme Regis via a rather long inland route on the coastal path, or by following a path along the cliff. The latter did not look to be in good condition when I went so I stopped at Charmouth. Things might have improved by now.

Follow the coastal path out of Bridport to West Bay then walk along the cliffs to Eype beach. The nearby village is divided into Higher Eype and Lower Eype. There are several village buildings here dating back to the 18^th and 19^th centuries. Eype means steep place and I can confirm this as we stayed in a rather nice country club hotel here (good food) -got stuck on the one track steep hill with a vehicle coming the other way which was scary!

There are some stunning views from the cliffs along this stretch including from Doghouse Hill and Thorncombe Beacon. Soon after East Ebb Cove is the settlement of Seatown a place of fishing and smuggling in the past. The whole area is rich in fossils but these must not be removed. Behind the village is the magnificent Golden Cap which, at 191 metres, is the highest point on the entire south coast. Take a rest at Seatown as the next task is to walk to the top!

At the summit of Golden Cap look out for the triangulation point marking its highest point. The name derives from the golden greensand rock which caps the top. It enjoys World Heritage status. Follow the path along for the next couple of miles into Charmouth. This is the site of where Danish pirates slaughtered many people in 831. In 1651, after the Battle of Worcester, Charles 11 escaped and was hidden in the Queen’s Arms Inn in Charmouth. The king fled when he knew he was discovered – just in time.  There is a heritage centre to find out more about the area near the mouth of the River Char.

Photos show: looking back towards Eype from Doghouse Hill; East Ebb Cove; Seatown with Golden Cap behind it; a view from Golden Cap towards Charmouth.