Walk 115 Kimmeridge Bay to Lulworth Cove (Dorset)

 Walk  115 Kimmeridge Bay to Lulworth Cove  (Dorset)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 195 and 194

Distance: 8 miles or 12 km.

Difficulty: challenging especially if muddy – some slippery slopes

Terrain: mainly cliff paths

Access: Parking at both ends. NOTE: This walk is on the Lulworth firing ranges and is only open at certain times. Check on: dorsetforyou.com before going.

Public transport: There appear to be no options for Kimmeridge. A morning bus service goes from Wareham to Lulworth. Local taxis specialise in the trip. I left my car at Lulworth Cove car par and arranged (in advance) for a taxi to Kimmeridge. A bit expensive but OK if you can share with other walkers.

Follow the coastal path westwards out of Kimmeridge Bay. Soon you will come to a ‘nodding donkey’ pumping up oil from a small BP well. This has been tapped for over 40 years and has been producing about 80 barrels a day. From Iron age times, oil shale (oil impregnated soft slate) was extracted and used to produce artefacts including jewellery and furniture. In the 1850s the oil was exported to Paris as fuel for gas lit lamps.

About a mile further on, past Howbarrow Bay, is Gad Cliff which overlooks Brandy Bay. This bay derives its name from the smuggling that took place in the 17^th and 18^th centuries. About a mile further along is Worbarrow Tout which sticks out impressively into the sea. Care is needed on the walk down from here and up the steep path to Flowers Barrow (no steps or handrail). I fell at this point and ended up at the doctors with a knee injury. I did manage to hobble on to Lulworth Cove though.

Inland from here is the ghost village of Tyneham. It can only be accessed when the coastal path is open. The village was seized by the army in 1943 on Churchill’s orders and used for practising manoeuvres. The occupants were moved out and tanks moved in (as did thieves who stripped the buildings!). The village is still empty despite years of protests.

Flowers Barrow, which overlooks Warbarrow Bay, was the site of an iron age fort and has been eroded over the years. There appears to be no evidence that it was much more than a small settlement.

Visible from the path near here is Lulworth Castle which is a mile or so inland. It was built in the early 17^th century by Thomas Howard as a hunting lodge, it then became a country house. It was gutted by fire in 1929 and was restored in 1998.     

 As you approach Lulworth Cove the views back to the east are stunning. The first view of the cove is the large car park and road stretching up the hill. Descend into the cove which is famous for its geology and picturesque outlook. The entrance to the cove is narrow because the rocks at this point are formed of the hard Portland Stone whereas the softer Purbeck stone in the cove is still eroding.

|Photos show: nodding donkey at Kimmeridge Bay; Gad Cliff and Brandy Bay; Warbarrow Tout; Lulworth Cove.

Walk 114 Worth Matravers to Kimmeridge Bay (Dorset)

 Walk  114 Worth Matravers to Kimmeridge Bay  (Dorset)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 195

Distance: 8 miles or 12 km.

Difficulty: very challenging especially if muddy

Terrain: cliff paths

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Very difficult. No 44 bus goes from Swanage to Worth at 12:11 and 14:11, the latest return journey appears to be 12:43. There appear to be no options for Kimmeridge. Taxi the only other option.

Follow the roads and tracks out of Worth Martravers and take the path westwards towards Houns-Tout Cliff. The steps up to the cliff top here must be one of the longest and steepest straight climbs on the coast anywhere in England. There is a good view back to St Aldhelm’s or St Alban’s Head. This stretch can get very muddy and needs great care if it is. I fell into the mire three times! Although a relatively short walk allow good time to complete it.

Continue walking to Egmont Point where there is a view of Swyre Head - an old Saxon Barrow. Kimmeridge Ledges provide interesting rock formations – the area is popular with geologists and surfers.

Clavell Tower is to the east of Kimmeridge Bay. This was built in 1831 by the Rev. John Clavell as  an observatory and folly. By 2005 erosion meant that the tower was very near the cliff edge so it was dismantled and rebuilt further back by The Landmark Trust. The writer Thomas Hardy courted one of his early loves, Eliza Bright, here and used the tower as a frontispiece for his Wessex Poems. The building also inspired the novelist P D James when writing her novel The Black Tower.

Continue round and down the steps where there is a good view of Kimmeridge Bay and beyond. The cliffs are famous for the fossils found in the alternate layers of limestone and clay. This is a very popular location with educational groups of all ages. In the past locals used to gather bituminous shale from the shore for extra fuel in winter. Reportedly, “Kimmeridge Coal” has an acrid and pungent smell when burnt.

Look out for the wild cabbage that grows here, it is the ancestor of modern cabbage, cauliflower and brussel sprouts. Unusually, due to its position, Kimmeridge Bay has two low tides each day.

Photos show: Looking eastwards near Chapman's Pool; Swyre Head; the path near Kimmeridge Ledges; Clavell Tower; Kimmeridge Bay.

Walk 113 Swanage to Worth Matravers (Dorset)

 Walk  113 Swanage to Worth Matravers (Dorset)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 195

Distance: 12 miles or 18km approx.

Difficulty: quite challenging

Terrain: cliff paths, some road

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Difficult both ways. No 44 bus goes from Swanage to the village at 12:11 and 14:11, the latest return journey appears to be 12:43.Taxi to the village might be the best option.

Start the walk from the pier and go westwards out of Swanage. You will pass a couple of pillars of Purbeck stone on the land side of the road. The Dorset coast and countryside are the setting of Thomas Hardy’s novels. He stayed in Swanage in 1875 and the town is referred to as Knollsea in his novel, The Hand of Ethelberta.

Continue the walk to Pevril Point. From here there is a view back to Old Harry Rocks and another forward to Durlston Head. Near the coastguard building are underground tunnels which connect to disused gun emplacements. Peveril point is made from limestone does not erode easily compared to Dalston Bay which is clay and does.

The walk passes around Durlston Bay, and goes through the country park The whole of the area is known as The Isle of Purbeck and it was joined to the Isle of Wight about 50000 years ago.

The next main feature is the globe at Durlston Head, a nearby plaque shows that the head is 1491 feet above sea level. The Great Globe is made from 40 tons of Portland Stone. From this point, the first Dolphin Watch was set up in 1967 – bottle nosed dolphins are the most frequently seen species. Much of the Dorset coast is known as the Jurassic Coast and it was England’s first World Heritage Site.

Just before the Tilly Whim Caves is Freestone an old tourist attraction which is no longer open to the public because of a rock fall. It was used extensively in the Napoleonic Wars for fortifications, however, after 1815 there was little activity apart from smuggling. It was closed in 1976.

A bit further round are the Tilly Whim Caves. These were originally limestone quarries mainly worked during the 18^th century. The name comes from a quarryman named Tilly and type of crane used then called a Whim. Skilled stonemasons worked much of the stone on site e.g. into sinks and troughs.

A short walk from the caves is Anvil Point. The lighthouse here is open to the public for most of the year. It was built in 1881 and was opened by Neville Chamberlain’s (the former prime minister) father who was Minister of Transport. It provides a way-marker for ships passing along the English Channel.

In about a couple of miles look out for the rocks of Dancing Ledge. It was called this because it was the same size as a ballroom floor and is a remnant of the Purbeck quarrying industry; it was last used in the 1930s. Stone from here was shipped to Ramsgate in Kent to build the harbour there. A swimming pool was once blasted into the rocks at Dancing Ledge for use by local preparatory schools. The cave at the eastern end houses some Great Horseshoe bats – an endangered species.

The walk continues along Seacombe Cliffs where there is further evidence of quarrying. Further along is Winspit which provides an interesting landscape of quarrying remains and World War 2 gun emplacements. The quarry closed in 1950 but it was used for a 1979 episode of Doctor Who.

The next main feature is St Adhelm’s or St Alban’s Head. Look out for the metal sculpture on the cliff top. This commemorates the radar research carried out at nearby Worth Martravers between 1940-42 – crucial to the war and modern telecommunications. The chapel on the Head is thought to date back to 1150 and is dedicated to the first Saxon bishop of Sherborne (in west Dorset). The square building has corners which point to the 4 main points of the compass. It is thought to have been a chantry where mass was said for sailors and it was also a beacon for shipping.

Continue the walk across Emmetts Hill, with views to Chapman’s Pool. Descend the steep steps and navigate into Worth Martravers. This is a picturesque village that dates from the 14^th century and was the home of the wealthy Martravers family. Most of the current buildings date from the 18^th and 19^th centuries. In 2004, local fishermen had their work sabotaged by The Lobster Liberation Group. The local pub, The Square and Compasses, has an annual stone carving competition marking the importance of quarrying to the area.    

Photos show: Worth Martravers; St Aldhelm's Chapel; Dancing Ledge; Tilly Whim Caves; The Great Globe; Winspit.

Walk 112 Brownsea Island then Sandbanks to Swanage

Walk  112 Brownsea Island then Sandbanks to Swanage (Dorset)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 195

Distance: 13 miles or 21 km approx
Difficulty: moderate
Terrain: paths/ pavement/sand
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Regular bus links from Poole to Swanage and Sandbanks. Ferry to Brownsea Island runs late March to early November – check times before travelling.

Brownsea Island is owned by the National Trust and it is worth signing up for one of their conducted tours (if available) to find out much of interest. These walks don’t cover the whole island but here are paths which can be walked independently.

There have been settlements on Brownsea since the 5^th century BC and these include Viking settlers and an abbey. Henry V111 first built a castle on the island and there were several owners who have added to it or rebuilt it. These include ‘Mad’ Benson in the 1700s who was said to dabble in black magic, a Colonel and his wife in the 1800s who became bankrupt after building a large pottery and chapel, Major Balfour who rebuilt it after a fire, the Van Raalte family who filled it with musical instruments and Mary Bonham Christie a reclusive eccentric who let the island drift back into a natural state. When she died in 1961 the island was taken over by the National Trust. The major retailing company John Lewis has contributed to the repair of the island including the castle which is now used by their employees as a hotel.  There are red squirrels, deer and a wide variety of birds to spot.

On return to Sandbanks get the chain ferry over to South Haven Point on the opposite bank. The ferry has been running since 1923 and saves a 25 mile road journey. On the other side there is a short walk to Studland Bay and the start of the South West Coastal Path – announced in a metal sculpted sign. The path is over 600 miles long and ends in Minehead in Somerset.

The walk across Shell and Studland bays is probably best undertaken on the firmer sand nearer to the sea. The area is home to three of Britain’s native snakes: the adder, the grass snake and the rarer smooth snake. The latter creature feeds on the equally rare sand lizard which also lives here. Studland means ‘land where horses were kept’- presumably some of these would have belonged to pirates and smugglers who were active here in the 18^th and 19^th centuries. Parts of the beach are frequented by naturists – I took some children across the sands several years ago without realising this  – judging by the sniggers my pathetic attempts to persuade them to avert their eyes were largely ignored.

After a couple of miles or so the path leaves the beach and goes along the cliff top. Near Redend Point is Fort Henry – the largest and strongest World War 2 observation post to be built in Britain. It was constructed by Canadian engineers in 1943. Studland Beach had a high profile throughout the war, even the sea was set alight with petrol as part of a deterrent and around 5000 mines were positioned on the sands.

Continue the cliff walk to The Foreland or Handfast Point. The area is known as the Isle of Purbeck but it has long ceased to be an island. Next to the sheer chalk white cliffs is Old Harry a stack that marks the point where the Purbeck Hills fall into the sea below Ballard Down. Old Harry is about 200 years old and it used to be accompanied by a smaller stump called Old Harry’s Wife but this collapsed in the 1950s. If you are lucky you can still see this during low spring tides. The name Old Harry refers to the devil who is said to have rested on the rock, although others suggest it was named after a famous pirate.

Continue around Ballard Point enjoying the spectacular white cliffs beneath your feet. As far back as the middle ages this area was quarried for lime stone and Purbeck marble was used in Salisbury Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. Soon Swanage comes into view where the stone has been used to help improve the appearance of the town.

Before tourists became the main source of the town’s income Swanage was the centre for shipping Purbeck stone to London. When the empty sailing ketches started sinking on their return from London they were loaded with unwanted heavy street items from the Victorian streets of the capital. Swanage then earned the name Little London as many of these ballast items were incorporated into the streets of the town. Look out for them!

Carry on the walk to the pier. The original pier was built in 1860 and used mainly for shipping stone. It is now used for leisure and volunteers have helped to repair recent storm damage. Walk inland from the pier to the Swanage Railway terminus. Trains first ran on the branch line to Swanage in 1882 but it all came to an end in 1972 when British Rail closed it. Fortunately, The Swanage Railway, a charity, took it over and it has been rebuilt by volunteers. Steam and diesel trains operate daily during the summer and at certain other times. This is a great way to go to inland Corfe Castle (on another day) and explore the ruins where Edward the Martyr was murdered in 978.

Snaps show: Studland Bay; the start of the South West Coastal path;Old Harry rocks; Swanage Beach; the twin Purbeck pillars on the walk out of Swanage; the Swanage Railway.

Walk 111 Bournemouth to Poole (Dorset)

 Walk  111 Bournemouth to Poole (Dorset)

 (Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

 Map: L/R 195

Distance: 13 miles or 20km approx.
Difficulty: quite easy
Terrain: paths/ pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Rail and bus links Bournemouth/Poole

Start the walk at Bournemouth Pier. Follow the cycle route along the coast as marked on the OS map.

The first main feature is Alum Chine. It gets its name from an unsuccessful attempt to mine alum (a fixative used in the dye industry) and copperas (a black die used in ink). It proved uneconomical and mining ceased by the end of the 17^th century. If you enjoy gardens, look out for the Alum Chine Tropical Gardens which can be viewed from a special platform.

There are a few chines (wooded valleys) along this stretch including Flag Head Chine and Canford Cliffs Chine. The valley at Branksome Chine cuts inland for about 1.5 miles.

Continue walking to Poole Head then follow the cycle track over the B3369 where it continues towards Sandbanks. Take a stroll along here where the view is to Brownsea Island and Poole. Much of the coast around Sandbanks is inaccessible because the gardens of some very expensive housing run down to the beach. This area has one of the highest (probably the highest) property values in the UK. I understand several celebrities and Premiership footballers live here.

After the stroll turn around and follow the road (a bit of a route march in parts) around to Poole then walk around Parkstone Bay following the cycle route. The entrance to Poole Harbour is soon reached.

Poole has been a port since the 12^th century prospering during the height of the wool trade to become one of the busiest ports in the UK in the 18^th century. It also prospered as a base for privateers (had a licence from the government to act moreless like pirates) and in 1405 was sacked (attacked and plundered) in vengeance by the French and Spanish.  During World War 2 it was one of the main departure points for the D Day landings. Sixty cutters of the US Coastguard Rescue service were stationed here – they were completely made of wool.

The harbour, the largest natural one in Europe, is full of extremely expensive looking boats – some under construction. There is a double high tide which means it remains high for more than half the day.

On the harbour side, look out for the seated figure of Baden Powell. This is a memorial to the man who organised the first scout camp at nearby Brownsea Island. (Details on next walk). A sculpture called ‘Sea Music’ by the artist Sir Anthony Caro is also at the edge of the harbour. The HQ of the RNLI together with the lifeboat college can be found further round on the walk to Holes Bay with its odd sculptures on the harbour side. At Holes Bay return to Poole centre and bus/train/car.

Snaps show: coast near Branksome Chine;  'Sea Music' sculpture, Poole; a view to Sandbanks; Poole Harbour.

Walk 110 Christchurch to Bournemouth (Hants)

 Walk  110 Christchurch to Bournemouth (Dorset)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 195

Distance: 10 miles or 16km approx.
Difficulty: quite easy
Terrain: paths/ pavement/beach
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Rail links with Bournemouth and Christchurch. Good bus links

Start by crossing the River Stour at Christchurch and join the Stour Valley Way to Hengistbury Head. The crossing by the River Stour is near to Wick Ferry which is an alternative method of getting to Hengistbury Head. Looking back over the Stour there is an attractive view to Christchurch. In Saxon times the town was known as Twynham which means the town between the waters. Look out for Place Mill, this was mentioned in the Domesday Survey of 1086. The building has medieval stonework and Tudor and 18^th century brickwork. It was used both for fulling (cleaning and thickening cloth) and corn grinding until 1908.

The soft sands and wooden frame buildings provide an attractive foreground to the coast further east. Hengistbury Head is part of a massive nature reserve. Birds with different bill lengths take full advantage of the different crustaceans and worms. The head has been occupied many times since the Stone Age. In the Bronze Age it was used as a cemetery - evidenced by many archaeological finds. It is reckoned that 2000 years ago this was Britain’s most important port. Between 1840 and 1880 the area was mined for iron ore which was taken to Wales for smelting.

Follow the path or continue along the sands to Warren Hill. Hunter gatherers of the Stone Age camped here 12,500 years ago; many flint tools have been excavated. The sea was many miles distant then.

Continue the walk along the marked paths or along the beach – the latter is harder work because of the sand and the groynes. Join the marked cycle path to continue to the outskirts of Bournemouth. This is the start of the 7 miles of sandy beaches that make up Bournemouth sea front. The town has been the fastest growing British resort in recent times.

Along this stretch is Boscombe Pier and Boscombe Chine. Boscombe developed as a seaside resort when the first pier opened in 1889. Many of the Victorians came to the area believing that the sweet scented air from the many pine trees would cure their TB. I understand that John Lennon bought his mother a house near here, she thought it was the most beautiful view she had ever seen.

Boscombe pier closed in World War 2 and remained derelict until it was modernised in ‘fifties’ style and reopened in 1962. It was deemed unsafe in 2005 and was refurbished and reopened in 2008 with the old theatre building at the end being replaced with a platform for fishermen. Much of the cliff side walk is fronted by modern apartment developments.

Look out for Boscombe Chine (a chine is a valley). Earlier in the 19^th century the area was wild and desolate and a haven for smuggling. Later in the century this part was developed into a pleasure ground for the public. Near here was Boscombe Spa which allegedly had foul tasting water purporting to have health improving properties.

The land train which goes along the promenade to Bournemouth. Some jolly pictures from local primary school children mark the finishing point.

Continue along to Bournemouth Pier. This was built in 1880 and includes a theatre. It was designed by the same man who designed the now defunct West Pier in Brighton. You can either walk back into the town or use the nearby electrically operated cliff lift (one of 3 in the Bournemouth area) which was built in 1908 and has been in continuous use ever since.

On the walk back the International Centre, often used by our main political parties for conferences, is prominent.

Snaps show: Warren Hill; Hengistbury Head; Bournemouth Pier; The terminus of the Bournemouth land train; a view across the Stour to Christchurch.

Walk 109 Barton on Sea to Christchurch, Hants

 Walk  109 Barton on Sea to Christchurch (Dorset)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)

Map: L/R 195

Distance: 10 miles or 16km approx.
Difficulty: moderate
Terrain: paths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Rail links with New Milton from surrounding areas (a mile or so inland from Barton on Sea). The X1 bus goes hour from Barton to Purewell (a part of Christchurch) and the X2 also hourly leaves from New Milton to Purewell.

Start the walk on the cliff top at Barton on Sea. The walk from here to Highcliffe is partly on the cliff top but some navigating around roads and open spaces near to the coast is required. I know it is possible having done it, however erosion may have got worse! The views along the cliff tops give good views of the coast around to Hengistbury Head.

After just over a mile the border between Hampshire and Dorset is crossed where Walkford Brook comes into the sea at Chewton Bunny.  A bunny is a local word meaning valley. The area is a special conservation area because of the 5 acres or so of ancient woodland.

A further mile along is Highcliffe Castle, positioned a short way back from the cliff top. This was built in 1831 by Lord Rothesay and has been described as “the most important example of the romantic and picturesque styles of architecture”. After falling in to disrepair the local council and English Heritage financed its restoration as a visitor attraction. It was reopened in 1999 and can also be booked for weddings and other functions.

Continue the walk towards Mudeford. It was possible to walk on the beach or on a low level promenade for part of this section. There is a feature here called Steamer Point which is marked locally but not on my OS map. The area got its name from a paddle steamer which got wedged into a cliff opening in 1829. Thirty years later Steamer Cottage was built on the cliff edge above and in line with the steamer. Unfortunately, this part of the cliff was removed in 1964.

Continue the walk around to Mudeford Quay. This is a very popular spot with a large car park, busy pub and many anglers. Opposite, across the entrance to Christchurch Harbour is Hengistbury Head.

Leaving Mudeford Quay, walk along the edge of Christchurch Harbour to Stanpit Marshes. The paths are clear across the nature reserve/golf course and enable you to walk to Christchurch Priory. In the past this area was used as a rubbish dump and by the military in both world wars. In connection with this, look out for the first prototype Bailey Bridge which is still here. (These were temporary bridges able to be quickly constructed and used in World War 2). Another interesting landmark is Tutton’s Well near the road and car park. The water from here was known for its medicinal properties and sold as The Christchurch Elixir. The well was capped in 1941.

Continue the walk around to the ruins of an old Norman Castle overlooking the River Stour. The stone keep replaced the original timber tower at the end of the twelfth century. The castle was mainly demolished in 1651 after the civil war between the king and parliament. Look out for the ducking stool a little further up the river in Ducking Stool Lane.

Christchurch Priory is a bit further around next to the River Avon. In 1043 Edward the Confessor founded a monastery here and it was rebuilt in 1095 giving the town the name of Christchurch. The monastery later became a priory reflecting its importance and that of the town.  

Snaps show: Tutton's Well on Stanpit Marshes; beach near Highcliffe; Place Mill (at start of next walk); Christchurch Priory.