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Tuesday, 6 November 2012

Walk 82 Camber Sands to Rye and Winchelsea Beach (E Sussex)


Walk   82 Camber Sands to Rye and Winchelsea Beach  (East Sussex)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 189
Distance: about 11 miles or 16km
Difficulty:  Fairly easy – flat, some beach walking
Terrain: footpaths, pavement, beach
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Bus 100 links Camber Sands to Rye and other towns; Bus 344 links Winchelsea Beach to Rye and other towns (both Mon – Sat check with Traveline).

From Camber, walk east to Jury’s Gut Sluice - an odd name which I have tried to research but with no luck. From this point you can see (and probably hear) the Lydd firing ranges which make the beaches from here to Dungeness too dangerous to walk. Walk back towards Camber along Lydd Road and its views of Broomhill Sands.

Camber Sands is a very popular place for families and wind surfers. Film directors often use it for location filming. For example, the 1962 war film The Longest Day starring Robert Mitchum was filmed here as the setting for the Normandy Beaches. During World War 2 the beach was fortified (some examples can still be seen around the area including alongside the River Rother) and used for military exercises.

It is worth a walk along the sands and alongside the Rother up to the point it enters Rye Bay. However, take care if the tide is coming in as you can get stranded on sand banks. Follow the path northwards back towards Rye, past Rye Harbour and into the town. It is interesting to look around Rye with its cobbled streets and its medieval buildings.

Rye stands at the confluence of the rivers Rother, Tillingham and Brede. In medieval times it was an important port providing ships for the service of the king. In the 18th and 19th centuries smuggling gangs such as the notorious Hawkhurst Gang used inns such as The Mermaid and Old Bell Inn – making use of secret passages. Apart from the general charm of the town, attractions such as the Castle Museum and Lamb House provide an informative background to its history and life. Many writers were attracted to live at Lamb House including Henry James and E F Benson.  Other famous residents in the area of Rye have included Tom Baker, Paul McCartney and Spike Milligan.

Take the Saxon Shore Way out of Rye and across the Rye Harbour Nature Reserve. The wide range of habitats on the reserve is home to a variety of animal and plant species. Camber Castle is a couple of miles along the path. It can only be visited by a pre-arranged tour with English Heritage. It was built by Henry V111 to protect Rye Harbour. It was disbanded in 1637 and is now a ruin.

The walk finishes at Winchelsea  Beach which is about two miles south of the town of Winchelsea. Looking inland from the sea wall is a large field. This was once a harbour built at considerable expense in the 1700s. It was to replace Rye Harbour a few miles away but was a financial disaster. It lasted just 3 months before it silted up and was never used again.
Snaps show: Winchelsea Beach; the old harbour at Winchelsea Beach; Broomhills Sands; Rye Harbour entrance.







Tuesday, 23 October 2012

Walk 81 Dymchurch to Dungeness (Kent)


Walk   81 Dymchurch to Dungeness (Kent)

 (Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 189
Distance: about 10 miles or 15km
Difficulty:  Fairly easy – flat some beach walking
Terrain: footpaths, pavement, beach
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway has stations at both ends – check the seasonal timetables.

A military firing range at Hythe means that the coast is inaccessible for a few miles, consequently this walk starts at Dymchurch.

Dymchurch is now a popular seaside resort. In the past it was an area rife with smuggling; Russell Thorndike’s books about Doctor Syn are based on this activity and the town holds a celebration of the stories every couple of years.  In the sixteenth century the village had a magistrate known as the
Leveller of the Marsh Scotts. The ‘scot’ was a tax to fund maintenance of the sea wall paid by Dymchurch residents. Those outside the boundaries of the village did not have to pay and were said to have got away ‘scot free’. Thorn bushes were used to help build the sea wall as it was believed that the leaves were impervious to sea water. Those who failed to make a contribution were said to be in danger of having one of their ears cut off!

There are three Martello Towers in Dymchurch. One is now a home, one is empty and the other is a museum run by English Heritage with exhibits explaining the history of these buildings which were designed to defend against an invasion by Napoleon.

The walk continues along the wide promenade to St Mary’s Bay. This area, which once housed a major school journey centre, is now mainly housing. E Nesbitt, the author of the Railway Children lived here for a time and is buried in a local churchyard. A mile or so further along is Littlestone on Sea. A major landmark is the red water tower near the beach. Looking out to sea it is possible to spot the section of an old Mulberry Harbour. During the allied invasion of Europe in 1944 a complete floating harbour was built and towed to the landing beaches of Normandy. Some of it broke off and a section of it lies here.

Inland from Littlestone is New Romney. This was one of the original ‘cinque’ ports and was at the head of the River Rother until it changed course. The headquarters of the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch railway is here and worth a visit if you are interested in the history of this small gauge railway.

Greatstone-on-Sea  is a fairly recent development with most of the housing built in the 1960s and 70s. An RNLI station is near to the pebbly beach. A local rector once warned that many witches were living on the nearby Romney Marshes.

From here the choice is to walk on the large pebbly foreshore or on the pavement. Lydd on Sea has a row of bungalows facing the foreshore; some residents have gardens on the beach which is on the opposite side of the road; ‘Private’ and ‘ Keep out’ notices are on roped off plots on the shingle. Near to this point is a path going to a sound mirror similar to the one described on the previous walk from Dover – this will involve a few miles detour. Unfortunately, it can only be seen at a distance unless permission is gained to enter the site.

The walk from Lydd on Sea to Dungeness is probably best done on the road. Dungeness is a wild, desolate place with a unique landscape favoured by those who choose to live here. Bungalows are dotted around on the shingle in no particular order – many appear to be no more than fishermen’s shacks. Nevertheless, they evidently have a high value for those wanting to get away from the ‘rat race’.  

 Dungeness Nuclear Power station is in fact two buildings; one is now closed but the other has had its licence extended until 2018. Nearby are two lighthouses; the newest one, built in 1961, replaced the older one built in 1901 as shipping could no longer see it when the power station was built.

Dungeness has one of the largest areas of shingle in the world. A path enables you to walk out on the headland and look along the coast. The surrounding area is a wildlife sanctuary with a wide range of protected wildlife. If you arrive at the right time you will be able to get a drink in the Britannia Pub which can be easily found near to the paths.

Snaps show: popwer stations, Dungeness; Britannia Pub, Dungeness; centre the water tower near Littlestone; Dymchurch beach; huts on the beach at Dungeness; the front at Littlestone; New Romney narrow gauge rail station.


Friday, 12 October 2012

Walk 80 Dover to Hythe (Kent)


Walk   80 Dover to Hythe (Kent)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 179
Distance: about 12 miles or 18km
Difficulty:  Moderate, a few steep climbs
Terrain: footpaths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Trains to Dover, buses from Hythe to Folkestone

Start from near the docks in Dover- the ferries started sailing from here in 1953.  On the right are white cliffs towering above the buildings lower down. The town was in the front line for attacks in the Second World War and was extensively bombed.

Keep walking as near to the sea front as possible. You will come to the old harbour which was built at the time of Henry VIII, however, the discovery of a bronze age boat showed that the port had been used for over 3500 years. This boat is the oldest one in the world and can be seen at Dover Museum.

The walk goes along the pleasant promenade and beach. Julius Caesar considered landing at Dover but was apparently deterred by the sight of the natives haranguing him from the cliff tops! Adjacent to the beach is a statue of Charles Rolls who was the first man to cross the channel and return in a single flight. Bleriot also landed here on the first one way channel flight in 1909. Further along the landward side of the seafront is a sculpture of ‘The Waiting Miner’. It was originally sited at Richborough Power Station near Ramsgate (buildings now demolished); it was relocated here in 1997 next to the former offices of the National Union of Mineworkers. Further along is a memorial to the 202,000 allied troops evacuated during the evacuation of Dunkirk in 1940.

The walk out of Dover involves some steep climbs. Looking downwards is the railway line to Folkestone and a large beach which appears to be only accessible by a railway footbridge – very few people were using it when I went on a hot sunny day. Further along is Shakespeare Cliff which features in King Lear - hence the name.

A couple of miles out of Dover is Samphire Hoe. A strange stone near the path records that Matthew Pepper was mayor of Dover in 1895 – I cannot find out why it is here or if this is where he is buried. Beneath the cliffs are buildings connected with the Channel Tunnel which runs underneath. This area was formed from the workings of the tunnel and a plaque lists the eleven people who lost their lives during its construction between 1986 and 1992. The place gets its name from rock samphire an edible plant which is mentioned in King Lear. The area is particularly popular with fishermen.

The walk continues past Abbots Cliff then cuts a little way inland to Capel Le Ferne. At this point you pass an old sound mirror. This was an early radar type device to hear enemy aircraft approaching and was used around the time of the First World War. At Capel Le Fern it is well worth taking a break to look around the Battle of Britain Memorial. This part of Kent was known as Hellfire Corner during the Second World War. The centre piece of the memorial is the sculpture of an airman overlooking the channel and there is a memorial listing all those who fought in the Battle of Britain.

Follow the road out of Capel Le Ferne then along the cycle route down the road towards Folkestone. The area round here was notorious for smuggling and is known locally as Little Switzerland because of its diverse flora and fauna. Look out for two Martello Towers built between 1805 and 1808 to help defend the country against Napoleon. The name comes from Cape Martello in Corsica where such a tower proved difficult for the English to capture in 1794.

The view into Folkestone past Copt Point is an attractive one and does not support Daniel Defoe who described the area as a ‘miserable fishing town’. The walk goes past a popular beach to the east of the town before reaching the harbour. Folkestone used to operate ferries but much of this area has been redeveloped and is popular with tourists.

On the west cliffs of Folkestone is an area called The Leas. A hydraulically operated lift carries passengers from the top and bottom of the cliff; it was built in 1885 and is one of the oldest of its type still working. A statue of Folkestone born William Harvey who discovered how the blood circulated is on the Leas. The area was popular with fashionable Edwardian society and features in H G Wells book Kipps (Half a sixpence). The impressive building facing out to sea is The Grand Hotel. Edward V11, Princess Margaret and Agatha Christie have all stayed here. Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express when she was a resident.

The walk passes alongside a significant coastal protection scheme. A mile or so from Folkestone is Sandgate which has a number of houses built close to the beach promenade. H G Wells lived near this spot in Beach Cottage and his novel ‘The Sea Lady’ was set here. Sandgate Castle was built in 1539 by Henry V111 who feared a French invasion, it is now in private ownership. During Napoleonic times part of it was converted into a Martello Tower.

The walk continues into Hythe along a long promenade. Hythe was one of the Cinque Ports (a group of medieval ports in Kent and Sussex which were allowed trading privileges in exchange for supplying the bulk of the British navy). In 1293 the French landed here and the townspeople slew all 200 soldiers. Further inland is the small attractive town of Hythe. The terminus of the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch 15” gauge  railway and The Royal Military Canal (which was built as a defence during the Napoleonic Wars) are two of the interesting features.
Snaps show: Sound mirror near Capel Le Ferne; statue of Charles Rolls at Dover; part of the Battle of Britain Memorial at Capel le Ferne; Dover Beach; Grand Hotel, Folkestone; Sandgate Castle; Martello Tower Folkestone; Leas hydraulic lift, Folkestone.


            

Wednesday, 3 October 2012

Walk 79 Sandwich to Dover (Kent)


Walk 79          Sandwich to Dover (Kent)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 179
Distance: 14 miles or 22km.
Difficulty:  Moderate, some climbs
Terrain: footpaths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Trains to Sandwich and Dover to surrounding towns.

Sandwich, with its riverside, timber framed buildings, old archway and connections with Thomas Paine is well worth a stroll around. It was one of the original cinque ports but the harbour silted up in the 18th century and its importance diminished. It was attacked by the French in 1457 and ever since this time the mayors have worn black robes in memory of the many residents killed during the raid. I tried a sandwich in a pub here which claims to have the original ‘open’ format. The story goes that the Earl of Sandwich could not leave the table during a long gambling session so he put beef with his bread - hence the sandwich.

Follow the path out from the car park and alongside some fields before starting on the route across St George’s golf course. To avoid flying golf balls and the anger of serious golfers keep strictly to the marked path. The British Open is held here every nine years and for James Bond fans may be interested to know that it is here that he played golf against his enemy in the film Goldfinger.

After the trek across the golf course you emerge at Sandwich Bay. It is usually very quiet along here partly because vehicles have to pay a toll to pass through the exclusive Sandwich Bay Estate. Many of these impressive houses can be seen on the walk towards Deal. As you enter Deal watch out for the (few) remains of Sandown Castle. This was built as a coastal fortification by Henry V111. Further along are some interesting old buildings looking out to sea – these include a 1623 Tudor Cottage. The Royal Hotel has a plaque announcing that Lord Nelson and Lady Emma Hamilton ‘visited’ here in 1801.

Ramsgate can be seen from Deal Pier on a clear day. It is 1000 feet long and is used mainly for fishing although a bar/café at the far end is good reason to walk its length.

Continue the walk past the fishing boats and further attractive buildings. The distinctive Time Ball on top of its dedictaed museum is worth a closer look and visit (if open). This tower once enabled ships setting off on a voyage to check their chronometers with GMT. The black ball was dropped at 1 p.m. by electrical current sent from Greenwich.

Further along is Deal Castle built by Henry V111 to protect his fleet when anchored nearby. It is built in the shape of the Tudor Rose and is open to the public.

On the way out of Deal and into Walmer look out for a bandstand on the grass between the promenade and the road. This has plaques for the eleven bandsmen tragically killed by an IRA bomb in 1989. Alongside the coastal path is a plaque celebrating the first Roman landing in Britain – it features an engraving of Julius Caesar.

Further along, Walmer Castle can be seen set further back from the path. This castle was a favourite of the late Queen Mother who was The Lord Warden. Previous holders of this post include the Duke of Wellington (who died here) and Winston Churchill. Well worth a visit.

The walk continues past the unspoilt village of Kingsdown and The Zetland Arms which faces the sea – a great place to stop for a break. The path from here goes up on to the cliffs. One significant landmark  before getting to St Margaret’s at Cliffe is the memorial to the Dawn Patrol which guarded the English Channel from 1914-1919.

St Margaret at Cliffe with its stunning sea front is a popular place to start cross channel swims – the French coast is at its closest here (22 miles). Noel Coward once lived in the village and later rented the house out to Ian Fleming. The author was an ornithologist and named James Bond after a writer of books on birds.

The cliff walk gives great views out to the channel which is the busiest sea lane in the world. Most of this area is owned by the National Trust and includes South Foreland Lighthouse (open to visitors) – the first lighthouse to use electricity.

The path gives good views of Dover Castle – a must to visit with its Norman connections, medieval tunnels (spooky) and wartime tunnels. The path drops down into Dover with a good view of Dover Docks.

The walk finishes when the road near the docks is reached.   
Snaps show: the remains of Sandown Castle; the time ball tower in deal; entrance to Deal pier; St Margaret at Cliffe.


Sunday, 23 September 2012

Walk 78 Broadstairs to Sandwich (Kent)


Walk 78          Broadstairs to Sandwich (Kent)

(Second leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End

Map: L/R 179
Distance: 10 miles or 15km. approx..
Difficulty:  Fairly easy
Terrain: footpaths and pavement
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Trains from Broadstairs to Sandwich – change at Ramsgate

Update - parts of this walk have improved recently with footpath instead of road walking.

Start at Broadstairs sea front. Along the cliff promenade is the ‘retro’ ice cream and coffee cafĂ© called Morrelli’s. The fifties/sixties dĂ©cor is unspoilt and has been recommended as a place to visit in the national press over recent years. Fort House (now named Bleak House) was visited by Dickens for his summer holidays and can be visited (update - not open for visiting in 2016). His desk and chair overlook the Goodwin Sands and it is where he wrote some scenes from his novels. Dickens also stayed in other buildings in the town and plaques mark these places e.g. The Albion Hotel. One wit has placed a notice on his house in York Street saying ‘Dickens did not live here’. A festival is held every summer to celebrate Dickens connection with the town.

Turn right out of Morreli’s and head south. You will notice a field and bandstand on your left. These are used for various events and form one of the venues for the large and very successful Broadstairs Folk Festival which is held every August. Over the cliff is the main beach, Viking Bay, so named because the Vikings are thought to have landed here.

Follow the cliff promenade to Louisa Bay. The large building behind here used to be the Louisa Bay Hotel which is now fitted out as apartments. There is a choice at this point – you can either walk on the lower promenade to Dumpton Gap or stay on the cliff top. The lower walk provides a good view of the cliffs with their unique formations. They are well worth a look especially for those interested in geology.

Dumpton Gap has a pleasant beach away from the more crowded areas of Broadstairs and Ramsgate. The walk from here is more interesting if continued on the cliff top rather than on the beach. About a half a mile along there is a unique house which appears to be modelled on a lighthouse. From here the path passes through a park where there was once a house which Queen Victoria stayed in when she was young. The house’s greenhouses have been preserved and can be seen hidden to the right as you walk through the park.

Exiting the park the promenade continues along the Eastcliff top into Ramsgate. The Granville, a former very fashionable hotel, designed by Pugin can be seen on the right. Look out for the many styles of architecture as you progress along Ramsgate seafront. Further along past the kiosk take the road that slopes down to the left on to the beach promenade. The walk takes you past the old outdoor swimming pool (still some marks on walls giving evidence of this) and near to the point where the old Ramsgate Sands train used to stop. On clear days you can look out to sea and make out the French coastline near Calais.

The hoardings past the end of the road and mini roundabout cover a re-development of the old Merry England site. This was an amusement park which had run for many years but burnt down in the 1990s. It has been bought for development as a hotel and apartments but progress has been very slow. Enterprising locals have used the hoardings to display large artworks done by local people and have called it The Ramsgate Wall.

The walk continues towards Ramsgate Harbour – look out for the old Victorian Pavilion which has until recently been used as a casino. The large needle structure on the edge of the harbour was presented by George 1V when he sailed into the town, bestowing Ramsgate as the only royal harbour in England. Near here is a plaque placed by Vera Lynn to celebrate the Dunkirk rescue; the town and its boat owners had a big part to play – visit the maritime museum for further details.

The attractive harbour, designed by Smeaton is the second biggest in England. It once included former prime minister Edward Heath’s boat ‘Morning Cloud’; he went to school in Ramsgate and lived in Broadstairs. Many other famous people are associated with the area, these include: Wilkie Collins, Frank Muir, Brenda Blethyn, Francis Frith, Elizabeth Fry, David Niven and Lily Langtry.

Continue along the road into the harbour alongside the large harbour wall. You will pass the old Smack Boys Home which was accommodation for the young boys who worked on the fishing boats (called smacks). The small sailors’ church is here as well and can be visited at times. A little further along go up the zig-zag steps which are known as Jacob’s Ladder. The cliff promenade continues with a good view of the old ferry terminal and the existing one which carries freight and cars to Ostend (update no longer operates) The passenger routes to France closed some time ago partly due to a tragedy in 1980 when 9 people fell to their deaths after a walkway collapsed. On your right is The Grange, a famous house designed and lived in by Pugin now owned by The Landmark Trust (who open it for a few weekends every year).

The walk continues along the West Cliff with a view to a large factory area which was, until recently, occupied by the American chemical giant Pfizer. Look out for the sculpture, Hand and Molecules’, donated by Pfizer, which is situated alongside the promenade.

The walk cuts inland and towards the village of Pegwell. Look out for the art-deco Pegwell Hotel with its distinctive tower overlooking Pegwell Bay. The walk goes across the cliff top where there is much evidence of erosion. Further round are the remains of the old hoverport which used to operate here.

The path winds round to an impressive replica of a Viking ship. This arrived here in 1949 from Denmark. It celebrates the landing of Hengist and Horsa 1500 years earlier. St Augustine is thought to have landed in Pegwell Bay before going to Canterbury and establishing Christianity in Britain. St Augustine’s Cross in Pegwell village marks this event.

The walk continues on the road before a path behind a petrol station passes alongside the marshes and a nature reserve. Then it’s back on the road again to complete the walk into the town of Sandwich. (Update - this is now improved with dedicated footpaths).
The four snaps show: Viking Bay, Broadstairs; Pegwell Bay Hotel; Pavilion and monument, Ramsgate Harbour; The Smack Boys Home, Ramsgate.




Sunday, 9 September 2012

Walk 77 Berwick upon Tweed to the border with Scotland


Walk 77          Berwick upon Tweed to the border with Scotland

 (First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

 Map: L/R 75

Distance: 5 miles or 8 km (the return can be straight down the A1 and into Berwick on the main road if walking back).
Difficulty:  Fairly easy
Terrain: footpaths and pavement
Access: Parking at Berwick and on the A1 near the border.
Public transport: Buses run from Berwick to and fro and use the A1 where there are various bus stops.

Start in the centre of Berwick. If you get a chance it is well worth a visit to Berwick Town Hall where a guide (a halberdier when I visited) provides a very interesting tour of this building. A potted history of the town is brought to life and is reflected in the history of the town hall. Highly recommended – go to the tourist information office for tour times.

Information boards provide details of the paintings of Berwick by L S Lowry. Vantage points near the river give you a chance to admire the Grade 1 listed viaduct built in 1850. It was designed by Robert Stephenson, son of George and opened by Queen Victoria. The east coast rail line still crosses it.  

Take a walk towards the river and town wall – you may well pass The Kings Arms where Charles Dickens gave one of his famous readings. There are several remaining fortifications on the wall reflecting the fact that the town changed hands between Scotland and England several times. These are reputed to be the best surviving medieval walls in Europe. They are 1.5 miles long and approx.7 metres high and were completed by 1560 during the reign of Elizabeth 1st. The architectural historian Nicholas Pevsner loved Berwick describing it as one of the most exciting towns in the country.

Follow the wall then road towards the estuary. Look out for Fishers Fort designed for 6 cannons in the 1770s. The one on display is Russian and kept as a trophy after its capture at the siege of Sevastopol in 1855 during the Crimean War. There is a bulwark (defensive point) overlooking the river and an 18th century guard house called the Main Guard now cared for by English heritage.

The path passes alongside the river edge then climbs the cliff and passes near a caravan site. The coastal path goes along the cliff to the border. However, heavy rain was falling when I tried it and it was impassable so I had to go back to the A1, walk along the road then cut back in at Marshall Meadows. About half a mile north of this point is the border; the path goes inland for a short distance - Scotland and England are clearly marked alongside the railway line.   
Pictures show: the Main Guard; Fishers Fort; caravan site between Berwick and the border; the railway line and border marker.





Tuesday, 28 August 2012

Walk 76 Holy Island to Berwick-upon-Tweed


Walk 76          The coast opposite Holy Island to Berwick-upon-Tweed (Northumberland)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 75
Distance: 10 miles or 15 km approx
Difficulty:  Fairly easy
Terrain: footpaths, sand and pavement
Access: Parking at Berwick (There is some parking near where the Causeway starts for Holy Island).
Public transport: 501/505 link to Berwick - times vary according to tides at Lindisfarne.

Walk through Beal to the Northumberland Coast Path. The vast stretches of Goswick then Cheswick Sands are alongside the sand dunes. Don’t be tempted to walk out towards the sea as there are dangerous quick-sands and when the tide turns it races in and there is a risk of being cut off.  

Much of the walk north meanders alongside a golf course. Parts were flooded when I went and were just about passable.  For a small stretch the path runs parallel with the main east coast rail line. I took my own route down to the coast so I could see Spittal Sands. The official coast path follows the road into Berwick.

Spittal is a former fishing village – its name derives from a leper hospital which stood here in the middle ages. L S Lowry, the famous painter, was active in painting scenes in and around Berwick. The sands at Spittal were one of his subjects. Information boards here and in Berwick provide lots of background detail. Until the 1950s a little ferry crossed the estuary to Berwick and Lowry painted this and other sailing boats.

With its long sandy beach and spa, Spittal became a popular holiday resort in the 19th century. There is an old chimney near the beach but I could not find out what it was used for.

Cut along the estuary to England’s most northerly town. Between 1147 and 1482 Berwick changed hands between the Scots and English thirteen times. The slightly ambiguous nature of the town is reflected in the status of its football team. Berwick Rangers are firmly in England but play in the Scottish league.

The town is particularly attractive, especially the old bridge which dates back to the 17th century. It was built after James 1st is said to have complained about the dodgy wooden one that he was forced to use. It is now used one way for traffic and for pedestrians; this is the one you should use to cross into the main town. Further along the river is The Royal Tweed Bridge which was opened in 1920 and takes most of the heavy traffic. Also down this end is the impressive railway viaduct.

Pictures show: Goswick Sands; estuary near Spittal; the old bridge at Berwick; looking along the old bridge to the town.