Walk 49 Chapel St Leonards to Mablethorpe

Walk 49   Chapel St Leonards to Mablethorpe (Lincs)

(First leg of English Coastal Walk - Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland)

Map: L/R 122
Distance: about 10 miles
Difficulty: easy to moderate depending on the amount of sand walking
Terrain: pavement/road/sand
Access: parking at both ends
Public transport: buses at both ends


Rejoin the walk at Chapel Point and walk either along the beach or on the road - once you have made the choice you will need to stick to it for a couple of miles or so as I wouldn't recommend crossing the marsh!

At Anderby Creek there is a unique 'Cloud Bar' on the foreshore which is well worth a visit (free). It was constructed by the Cloud Appreciation Society and is Britain's only cloud spotting platform. An information panel gives guidance on how to spot the different types of clouds with comprehensive guidance on how they are formed and where to go for further information. Looking along the beach you may well see horses ridden along the soft sands.

Further up the beach either by sand or road is Moggs Eye/Huttoft Beach. This beach is recommended by surfers as being particularly good in the winter when the wind is usually from the west. (It is also featured in the Good Beach Guide). John Betjeman loved Lincolnshire and the nearby village of Huttoft provided the inspiration for his poem 'A Lincolnshire Church'.

A few miles further north is Sutton on Sea. A handsome new Edwardian resort was once planned for here but the plans were scuppered by the outbreak of the First World War. The names of the  beach huts along this stretch reflect the usual bracing weather here -  a few examples of those I spotted: Goosebumps, Wind Rush and Chill Out.

At Mablethorpe there are gated flood defences. The sea walls have regularly been breached right back to the time of the Romans. In the 1953 great floods 43 of the 307 people killed lived between here and Skegness. Three further floods have hit since then and several projects including dumping millions of tons of sand to create higher beaches have been tried.

I do hope the strange looking beach huts are still there - they are odd but fascinating. In 2007 there was a contest to explore different designs of beach huts and over 100 exhibits were entered. Some of them were left in situ and provide a great talking point.

Lord Tennyson used to rent a cottage in Mablethorpe for his summer holidays. He often returned to the town sometimes to see the spring and high tides and at other times when he was feeling despondent. However, it is said that he was disappointed when he found the area colder than his childhood memories.

It is worth exploring the northern part of Mablethorpe, first on the cliffs from some odd, but surprisingly comfortable, concrete seats, and then on  the sands. The sand train runs along the beach to the north and has being running in season since 1952. It was still doing good business when I went in October - a trip to the end on the train and a walk back along the delightful sands are a pleasant way to end the walk.

Photos show: the beach at Chapel St Leonards; the centre of Chapel; the cloud bar at Anderby Bank; one of the strange beach huts at Mablethorpe and the sand train at Mablethrorpe beach.

Walk 48 Skegness to Chapel St Leonards

Walk 48          Skegness to Chapel St Leonards (Lincolnshire)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: 122

Distance: about 11 miles

Difficulty:  quite easy, flat

Terrain: paths and some road/pavement/sand

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport:  No 1 and No 3 buses go regularly between the two points.

It is probably worth walking a mile or so to the south of Skegness to enjoy the views of the extensive sands which continue to Gibraltar Point. Most of this area, from which the sea has been retreating for 300 years, is part of a national nature reserve.

Retracing the journey back to Skegness two wind farms form a prominent part of the seascape. Skegness comes from the Scandinavian word ‘Sheggi’ meaning the bearded one. It is likely that Sheggi was a Viking leader whose force invaded and settled here although the original settlement was washed away some time later.

Skegness has impressive wide sands with a typical British resort seafront; fast food, outlets, amusements and holiday parks feature strongly. In fact the town is home to the first Butlins Holiday Camp built in 1936. The camp (which is near to the coast walk north of the town) has been updated to meet modern needs with one of the original chalets preserved as a listed building.  One of the original slogans for Butlins was ‘A week’s holiday for a week’s wage’.

Once the railway arrived in Skegness in 1863 visitors arrived in ever increasing numbers. Watch out for pictures of the iconic ‘Skegness is SO bracing’ railway posters – reflecting a time when this would have been an attraction! There are well tended flower beds adjacent to Skegness sea front, one of them contains a sculpture of The Jolly Fisherman - the character used on the railway posters.

The road from the beach into the centre of Skegness features the clock tower - a significant local landmark. It is 50 feet high and was built in 1898 to celebrate Queen Victoria’s diamond jubilee. In 1998 a time capsule was buried under the traffic island beneath the tower to celebrate 100 years of laying the foundation stone.

Further along the front is Skegness Pier. It was opened in 1881 and was originally 1845 feet long, one of the longest in England. There were kiosks, seating, refreshment rooms and a concert area. Paddle steamers also crossed The Wash from here to connect with Hunstanton via Kings Lynn and Boston. Unfortunately, they stopped operating in 1910 when sand banks built up making it unsafe. In 1978 the pier was badly damaged in a storm and the end was removed in 1985. It is now much shorter but is still an attraction.

The walk along the promenade leaves Skegness then there is a choice between walking on the sands or going by road around the golf course before returning to the coast at Winthorpe. From here there is an almost continuous concrete barrier built after the devastating floods that hit the east of England in 1953. The path eventually arrives at Ingoldmells, not an attractive place unless you are a fan of massive holiday parks, caravans, amusement arcades, fast food outlets etc.

The walk into Chapel St Leonards is a pleasant one which passes alongside large stretches of sand. Continue to Chapel Point to the north which was once part of a major coastal defence during the Second World War. The gun structure and surroundings have been restored here to capture the views of the east coast. Walk back to Chapel St Leonards. The town became popular in the twentieth century with the advent of the car. Visitors used to pitch tents on the beach until chalets were built along the sand dunes in the 1930s. It is known locally as ‘Chapel’ and is named after a chapel dedicated to St Leonard built in ancient times. The church was rebuilt in 1572 then amended periodically and is the only one with a red steeple in Lincolnshire. A modern bell structure on a well kept green near the front provides an attractive oasis compared to the nearby modern buildings.

Photos show: Skegness sands, the clocktower at Skegness, Jolly Fisherman and flower beds, Skegness front and Imgoldmells.

Walk 47 Boston to Wrangle (Lincs)

Walk 47          Boston to Wrangle (Lincolnshire)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 131 and 122

Distance: about 14 miles

Difficulty:  quite easy, flat

Terrain: paths, some pavement

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Regular weekday service to and from Boston bus station to Wrangle (carries on to Skegness) check boards at the bus station.

This stretch is quite popular with people strolling along the north side of the river as it progresses towards The Wash. When I went it became more of a solitary experience on the northward stretch alongside Boston Deeps.

The walk out of Boston along The Haven is varied taking in views as diverse as a sewage works and a country park. About three miles along, just before Hobbhole Drain, there is an interesting memorial to the Pilgrim Fathers. They set sail from this point, now known as Scotia Creek, in September 1607. Unfortunately, they did not get very far on their first attempt. The small community from Scrooby (just over the Lincs. border in Nottinghamshire) bribed a Dutch captain to take them to religious freedom overseas; however he informed the authorities of their plans and the whole lot were returned to Boston – several ending up in the cells of the guildhall. A second attempt was more successful and after living in the Netherlands for several years the group set sail to join the Mayflower at Southampton.

At the end of the estuary, near where it meets The Wash, is a brick built ‘hide’ where you could spend a little time looking at the nearby sea-life. The marshes of The Scalp can be seen to the south and Black Buoy sand (and Mud) straight ahead and to the north. A couple of eastern European girls asked me how far it was to ‘the beach on the ocean’ – I think their expectations may have been dashed when they got there!

A diversion to the path was in place when I went - this may be permanent and the latest OS map may have changed as a result. The walk passes close to North Sea Camp (about half a mile inland). This has been a prison since 1988 and prior to that was a borstal. A cone type brick built structure near to the coast celebrates the work begun manually by the boys of North Sea Camp in 1936 which resulted in 500 acres of land being claimed back from the sea.

A couple of miles further up the coast is Freiston Shore with its RSPB nature reserve and lagoon. The walk from hereon alongside the marshes of Wrangle Flats is rather bleak. Inland there is productive arable farmland and cows often blocked the path resulting in a muddy diversion!

The end of the walk is at Wrangle. The name comes from the Scandinavian ‘Urangr’ meaning bent or crooked – a reference to a stream long since gone. Centuries ago there was a harbour here but it silted up. The accumulation of seaward marsh and enclosure of pasture land means that the village is now well inland. St Mary and St Nicholas Church dates back to the fourteenth century and will be of interest to those who enjoy visiting old churches.

Photos show: the estuary of The Haven, part of the marshy walk described above and a view of the village of Wrangle.

Walk 46 Spalding to Boston (Lincolnshire)

Walk 46          Spalding to Boston (Lincolnshire)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 131

Distance: about 16 miles

Difficulty:  quite easy, flat

Terrain: paths, some pavement

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Rail and bus services at both ends

There is a stretch of walking omitted here. I initially started walking the stretch that starts at Sutton Bridge goes around The Wash and ends at Spalding. However, the military had the red flag flying and I decided to turn back. The part that I did walk was featureless and a glance at the map suggested it may well remain that way. Let me know if you know better! The River Nene (opposite bank done in the last walk) looks like a canal and was the result of large scale drainage of the Fens in the 17^th century.

The main walk is bit longer than I usually attempt but it is flat and easily done within a ‘summer time’ day. Spalding is an attractive town with Georgian houses and river walks nestled along the Welland. Look out for the thatched White Horse pub, the medieval church and Ayscoughfee Hall. The latter is a fifteenth century manor house with attractive gardens. It is now a museum which includes a section on local explorer Matthew Flinders – he surveyed the coast of Australia in the eighteenth century. Spalding is famous for its annual flower festival.

The walk out of Spalding starts on the east bank of the River Welland and continues north for a few miles past Surfleet Seas End on the opposite bank. The whole of this area battled against floods until 1739 when a sluice was built. At Fosdyke Bridge, a few miles to the north, there is a crossing to the opposite bank to join the Macmillan Way around The Wash and into Boston.

Much of this area is a National Nature Reserve especially around Frampton Marsh. The many enthusiasts with their binoculars underline what a fantastic place it is to spot sea birds and birds of prey. Barn owls, kestrels and sparrow hawks are among the regular visitors. The saltmarsh here is regularly flooded by the sea and this is vital to maintain its variety of wildlife.

The path turns left to follow the banks of The Haven into Boston. The river bank changes from a rural outlook to an industrial one. Boston is a busy port which exports cattle, coal and vegetables and imports timber, fruit and fertiliser. Boats come the 5 miles inland up the Haven from The Wash. On the walk into Boston a railway appears to drop straight into the river but further examination shows it to be connected with a swing bridge on the opposite bank.

The river near the centre of Boston was low and muddy when I went – look out for The Pilgrim House near the river bank. In the 18^th century several Boston men took part in the exploration of Australia and it was around this time that floods and the silting up of the river channels reduced the town’s importance. However, the construction of the docks and deepening of the river revived the town in the 19^th century.

It is almost impossible to miss St Botolph’s Church with its famous tower known as ‘The Stump’. This is the tallest church tower in the country (272 feet high) and was begun in 1309. It can be seen for many miles in all directions across the marshes. The large church reflects the past wealth of the wool producing merchants in the town. The Market Place is well worth visiting with its variety of architecture. The impressive statue is of Sir Herbert Ingram who was born in Boston and became the MP. The classical figure of a water carrier beneath the statue refers to his influence in bringing piped water to the town. Unfortunately, Sir Herbert drowned in Lake Michigan in 1856.

Photos show the River Welland at Spalding, Fosdyke Bridge, view in the centre of Boston with Pilgrim's House and The Stump alongside the river at Boston.

Walk 45 Kings Lynn to Sutton Bridge (Norfolk and Lincolnshire)

Walk 45          Kings Lynn to Sutton Bridge (Norfolk and Lincolnshire)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 132 and 131

Distance: about 12 miles

Difficulty:  quite easy, flat

Terrain: paths, some pavement

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: 505 bus between Kings Lynn and Sutton Bridge every 20 minutes Mon-Sat and once an hour on Sunday.

If you are going by car you could take a quick diversion to Snettisham Scalp. A pleasant enough beach – a scalp is an oyster or mussel bed. A German prisoner of war camp was near here in World War 2.

The walk starts on the north east side of Kings Lynn (or Lynn as it is called by locals) on the bank of the Great Ouse. The town was an important port from the eleventh century. It continues to receive shipping although pilots are necessary to navigate the hazardous channels and sandbanks of The Wash. You can’t walk too far up this bank before encountering light industry so retrace the walk back into Kings Lynn.

The Tuesday Market area of the town (originally a thriving trading market) is surrounded by some impressive buildings. For two weeks, starting on February 14^th each year, there is a fair and music. Traditionally this is the first fun fair of the year in the showmen’s calendar. The town was named ‘Kings’ Lynn when it became the property of Henry V111. Further along the quayside is the old customs house fronted by a statue of Captain Vancouver. In 1792 this Kings Lynn resident landed on the north west coast of America to declare the land British Columbia. Vancouver is now the largest port in Canada and the birthplace of container shipping.

Further along the quayside going inland is an impressive sculpture of a seaman. A further area of interest is the Green Quay with its old buildings. An 800 year old cod skeleton found in Lynn shows that they grew up to 51 inches! The Campbell Food factory is in the town.

The path continues until it meets the bridge which crosses over to West Lynn and progresses northwards up the Great Ouse; the edge of The Wash is on one side and Terrington Marshes on the other. It is a bleak walk which should have at least the merit of being peaceful. However, there is the regular scream of low flying jets practising manoeuvres in The Wash - a bit scary and sinister.

The path around to Sutton Bridge is called the Peter Scott Walk as a tribute to the famous naturalist. It progresses several miles before turning inwards down the River Nene. A short way along is a lighthouse attached to living accommodation. It was opened in 1831 and was meant as a grand entrance to the new Nene Channel which had just been been dug out. There is a similar building on the opposite bank. Neither of the lighthouses was ever lit. Sir Peter Scott lived in this eastern lighthouse from 1933 to 1939. It was from here that a number of his wildlife studies and paintings were undertaken.

Further down the path Port Sutton Bridge, a successful trading area, dominates the opposite bank. At the end of the path is the impressive Cross Keys Swing Bridge. There have been three bridges on this sight including one designed by Robert Stevenson son of George Stevenson who designed the 'Rocket'. The current bridge was opened in 1897 as a road (and at that period rail) swing bridge. It is hydraulically operated and in its heyday would open about 900 times a year. It now opens no more than 2 or 3 times a week to let shipping up the river to Wisbech.

Snaps show: The Peter Scott Walk and lighthouse; Captain Vancouver statue at Kings Lynn; Cross Keys Swing Bridge at Sutton Bridge; Kings Lynn buildings and Tuesday Market.

Walk 44 Thornham to Heacham (NW Norfolk)

Walk 44          Thornham to Heacham (North West Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 132

Distance: about 9 miles or 14 km.

Difficulty:  quite easy, mostly flat

Terrain: paths partly following the Peddars Way and some sand dune walking
Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Coasthopper buses go to Thornham and Heacham – there is a mile walk or so from the sands at Heacham to the bus stop at Heacham Lavender on the A149.

 Follow the Peddars Way out of Thornham and on to the edge of the marsh and sands that lead to Holme next the Sea. The dunes and salt-marshes form a protected nature reserve - special plants grow here that can survive in salt water when the area is flooded. The coast along here is known as Shingle Bay and is a refuge for many birds. Near here and at Gore Point the tide evidently reveals the birds’ food stores. Strange zig-zag fences have been placed near to the sand dunes presumably as some sort of protection. I witnessed a glorious sunset near here and according to locals the evening sky is different and equally attractive most days.

The coast near Holme next the Sea is the site of the fairly recent discovery of ‘Seahenge’. Evidence of a circle of Bronze Age trees uncovered by the tide has resulted in discussion about its purpose. I understand a reconstruction of the site can be seen in Kings Lynn museum.

A choice can be made for the next part of the walk into Hunstanton. Either take the path through the dunes (which I did as I prefer to keep as near to the sea as possible) or follow the Peddars Way. Either way, do not miss the lighthouse just past Old Hunstanton. The lighthouse, which is now a private residence, was used from 1665 until 1921. In its early days the lights were called Chapel Lights after nearby St Edmunds Chapel. In 1776 it had the World’s first parabolic reflector - the current building was erected in 1840.

The former coastguard lookout which is next to the lighthouse was originally a Marconi listening post in both World Wars. It was instrumental in plotting the position of the German fleet prior to the Battle of Jutland in World War 1.

A little further along are the remains of St Edmund’s memorial chapel. Edmund of East Anglia was king of this area from 855 until 877. Legend has it that the chapel was constructed on this spot in 1272 to commemorate the Anglo-Saxon Edmund landing here in 855. After reigning peacefully for several years he had to defend his kingdom against the invading Danes. He was beaten in a battle at Thetford, taken prisoner and died a martyr’s death when being tied to a tree and killed with arrows. Later, his shrine at Bury St Edmunds in Suffolk became a place of pilgrimage and he became the first patron saint of England. The chapel in Hunstanton was used by monks for about 400 years before falling into neglect.

Be sure to look at the ‘hedge’ sculpture of a wolf and a nearby representation of a severed head. This recalls the local legend of Edmund’s beheading after he was killed and it being subsequently guarded by a wolf. The animal held the skull between his paws until it was claimed by locals and laid to rest. Near to this point is a bench remembering Edith Cavell (the First World War hero) who was a Norfolk nurse. 

The seafront buildings in this part of Hunstanton give it a more gentile appearance than some of the parts further along. Very attractive gardens have been laid out here for over a century and a nearby memorial remembers 31 victims of the floods in 1953.

The walk down the hill takes you into the livelier part of the resort with its numerous amusements, fairground type attractions and fast food outlets. ‘Sunny Hunny’s’ claim to fame is that it’s the only east coast resort where you can watch the sun setting over the sea (because it faces west over The Wash).

Leaving Hunstanton the hubbub dies down and there is a flat walk to Heacham alongside beach huts, caravans, bungalows and a few amusement parks. Heacham’s origins stretch back many years and there is a 13^th century church to admire. Thomas Rolfe (mentioned in the Gravesend walk) the husband of Pocahontas came from here.

Snaps show: St Edmund's Memorial Chapel, Hunstanton; the sculpture of the wolf near the chapel at Hunstanton; Hunstanton front; Holme Marshes

Walk 43 Burnham Overy Staithe to Brancaster (Norfolk)

Walk 43    Burnham Overy Staithe to Brancaster (Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 132

Distance: about 6 miles or 10 km.

Difficulty:  easy, flat

Terrain: paths mainly following the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coastal Path
Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Coasthopper bus runs in the summer to both ends.

Rejoin the walk at Burnham Overy Staithe. The path goes north for a bit before turning westwards alongside Trowland Creek. To the right, across the marshes is Scott Head Island a National Trust reserve. As the walk continues, to the left, inland, the village of Burnham Norton, birthplace of Nelson, can be seen in the distance. The track along this stretch is reputed to be a route used by smugglers.

Before reaching Burnham Deepdale I saw a derelict houseboat which looked as though it would be still OK for restoration – would be interested to know if it is still there. The Domesday Book listed seven Burnhams in this area, of which five remain - the three mentioned so far plus Burnham Thorpe and Burnham Market. All of these are small unspoilt villages typical of North Norfolk.

It is only a short distance to Brancaster Staithe. Two hundred years ago this village would have been surrounded by industry and activity. There are a number of dilapidated buildings to look out for on the walk through. The calm, quiet quayside was once occupied by an enormous malthouse built in the 1700s. In his 1929 History of Norfolk, John Chambers described it as one of the most remarkable curiosities in the county. The building was 100 metres long and stretched into the village, it was demolished between 1850 and 1870. Up to 120 tons of grain were processed into malt here each week but no malting takes place now. The quay was used by fishing and cargo boats until the 1900s. Fishermen now use a newly constructed quay which can be seen on the walk through – their catch includes mussels. The mudflats and saltmarshes around this area are protected by the National Trust. In Roman times a fort existed here garrisoned by troops from Dalmatia (now Croatia and Montenegro).

Further along reeds can be spotted growing near to the footpath. There is a history of reed cutting going back centuries in this part of Norfolk. It played an important part in the local economy providing much needed employment at harvest time especially when seas were rough and dangerous for fishermen. Most of the reeds are used for thatching.

The path continues to Brancaster. I feel it is worth breaking from the coastal path here to walk along to Brancaster Beach – a path follows the road for most of its length (I would not recommend the narrow road in busy times!) The vast expanse of sands becomes more impressive at low tide when the sea goes out a mile or so. To the west of the beach crabs can be found living in the fossilised remains of an ancient forest. About 1800 years ago the area was a Roman naval base. At that time the soldiers mainly collected oysters whereas local fishermen now mainly catch whelks and mussels.

The walk back to the village of Brancaster could finish with a welcome pint in The Ship Inn – named after the Victory and local hero Nelson.

Snaps show: Burnham Overy Staithe; Brancaster Staithe; Old boat and dilapidated buildings.