Walk 46 Spalding to Boston (Lincolnshire)

Walk 46          Spalding to Boston (Lincolnshire)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 131

Distance: about 16 miles

Difficulty:  quite easy, flat

Terrain: paths, some pavement

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Rail and bus services at both ends

There is a stretch of walking omitted here. I initially started walking the stretch that starts at Sutton Bridge goes around The Wash and ends at Spalding. However, the military had the red flag flying and I decided to turn back. The part that I did walk was featureless and a glance at the map suggested it may well remain that way. Let me know if you know better! The River Nene (opposite bank done in the last walk) looks like a canal and was the result of large scale drainage of the Fens in the 17^th century.

The main walk is bit longer than I usually attempt but it is flat and easily done within a ‘summer time’ day. Spalding is an attractive town with Georgian houses and river walks nestled along the Welland. Look out for the thatched White Horse pub, the medieval church and Ayscoughfee Hall. The latter is a fifteenth century manor house with attractive gardens. It is now a museum which includes a section on local explorer Matthew Flinders – he surveyed the coast of Australia in the eighteenth century. Spalding is famous for its annual flower festival.

The walk out of Spalding starts on the east bank of the River Welland and continues north for a few miles past Surfleet Seas End on the opposite bank. The whole of this area battled against floods until 1739 when a sluice was built. At Fosdyke Bridge, a few miles to the north, there is a crossing to the opposite bank to join the Macmillan Way around The Wash and into Boston.

Much of this area is a National Nature Reserve especially around Frampton Marsh. The many enthusiasts with their binoculars underline what a fantastic place it is to spot sea birds and birds of prey. Barn owls, kestrels and sparrow hawks are among the regular visitors. The saltmarsh here is regularly flooded by the sea and this is vital to maintain its variety of wildlife.

The path turns left to follow the banks of The Haven into Boston. The river bank changes from a rural outlook to an industrial one. Boston is a busy port which exports cattle, coal and vegetables and imports timber, fruit and fertiliser. Boats come the 5 miles inland up the Haven from The Wash. On the walk into Boston a railway appears to drop straight into the river but further examination shows it to be connected with a swing bridge on the opposite bank.

The river near the centre of Boston was low and muddy when I went – look out for The Pilgrim House near the river bank. In the 18^th century several Boston men took part in the exploration of Australia and it was around this time that floods and the silting up of the river channels reduced the town’s importance. However, the construction of the docks and deepening of the river revived the town in the 19^th century.

It is almost impossible to miss St Botolph’s Church with its famous tower known as ‘The Stump’. This is the tallest church tower in the country (272 feet high) and was begun in 1309. It can be seen for many miles in all directions across the marshes. The large church reflects the past wealth of the wool producing merchants in the town. The Market Place is well worth visiting with its variety of architecture. The impressive statue is of Sir Herbert Ingram who was born in Boston and became the MP. The classical figure of a water carrier beneath the statue refers to his influence in bringing piped water to the town. Unfortunately, Sir Herbert drowned in Lake Michigan in 1856.

Photos show the River Welland at Spalding, Fosdyke Bridge, view in the centre of Boston with Pilgrim's House and The Stump alongside the river at Boston.

Walk 45 Kings Lynn to Sutton Bridge (Norfolk and Lincolnshire)

Walk 45          Kings Lynn to Sutton Bridge (Norfolk and Lincolnshire)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 132 and 131

Distance: about 12 miles

Difficulty:  quite easy, flat

Terrain: paths, some pavement

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: 505 bus between Kings Lynn and Sutton Bridge every 20 minutes Mon-Sat and once an hour on Sunday.

If you are going by car you could take a quick diversion to Snettisham Scalp. A pleasant enough beach – a scalp is an oyster or mussel bed. A German prisoner of war camp was near here in World War 2.

The walk starts on the north east side of Kings Lynn (or Lynn as it is called by locals) on the bank of the Great Ouse. The town was an important port from the eleventh century. It continues to receive shipping although pilots are necessary to navigate the hazardous channels and sandbanks of The Wash. You can’t walk too far up this bank before encountering light industry so retrace the walk back into Kings Lynn.

The Tuesday Market area of the town (originally a thriving trading market) is surrounded by some impressive buildings. For two weeks, starting on February 14^th each year, there is a fair and music. Traditionally this is the first fun fair of the year in the showmen’s calendar. The town was named ‘Kings’ Lynn when it became the property of Henry V111. Further along the quayside is the old customs house fronted by a statue of Captain Vancouver. In 1792 this Kings Lynn resident landed on the north west coast of America to declare the land British Columbia. Vancouver is now the largest port in Canada and the birthplace of container shipping.

Further along the quayside going inland is an impressive sculpture of a seaman. A further area of interest is the Green Quay with its old buildings. An 800 year old cod skeleton found in Lynn shows that they grew up to 51 inches! The Campbell Food factory is in the town.

The path continues until it meets the bridge which crosses over to West Lynn and progresses northwards up the Great Ouse; the edge of The Wash is on one side and Terrington Marshes on the other. It is a bleak walk which should have at least the merit of being peaceful. However, there is the regular scream of low flying jets practising manoeuvres in The Wash - a bit scary and sinister.

The path around to Sutton Bridge is called the Peter Scott Walk as a tribute to the famous naturalist. It progresses several miles before turning inwards down the River Nene. A short way along is a lighthouse attached to living accommodation. It was opened in 1831 and was meant as a grand entrance to the new Nene Channel which had just been been dug out. There is a similar building on the opposite bank. Neither of the lighthouses was ever lit. Sir Peter Scott lived in this eastern lighthouse from 1933 to 1939. It was from here that a number of his wildlife studies and paintings were undertaken.

Further down the path Port Sutton Bridge, a successful trading area, dominates the opposite bank. At the end of the path is the impressive Cross Keys Swing Bridge. There have been three bridges on this sight including one designed by Robert Stevenson son of George Stevenson who designed the 'Rocket'. The current bridge was opened in 1897 as a road (and at that period rail) swing bridge. It is hydraulically operated and in its heyday would open about 900 times a year. It now opens no more than 2 or 3 times a week to let shipping up the river to Wisbech.

Snaps show: The Peter Scott Walk and lighthouse; Captain Vancouver statue at Kings Lynn; Cross Keys Swing Bridge at Sutton Bridge; Kings Lynn buildings and Tuesday Market.

Walk 44 Thornham to Heacham (NW Norfolk)

Walk 44          Thornham to Heacham (North West Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 132

Distance: about 9 miles or 14 km.

Difficulty:  quite easy, mostly flat

Terrain: paths partly following the Peddars Way and some sand dune walking
Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Coasthopper buses go to Thornham and Heacham – there is a mile walk or so from the sands at Heacham to the bus stop at Heacham Lavender on the A149.

 Follow the Peddars Way out of Thornham and on to the edge of the marsh and sands that lead to Holme next the Sea. The dunes and salt-marshes form a protected nature reserve - special plants grow here that can survive in salt water when the area is flooded. The coast along here is known as Shingle Bay and is a refuge for many birds. Near here and at Gore Point the tide evidently reveals the birds’ food stores. Strange zig-zag fences have been placed near to the sand dunes presumably as some sort of protection. I witnessed a glorious sunset near here and according to locals the evening sky is different and equally attractive most days.

The coast near Holme next the Sea is the site of the fairly recent discovery of ‘Seahenge’. Evidence of a circle of Bronze Age trees uncovered by the tide has resulted in discussion about its purpose. I understand a reconstruction of the site can be seen in Kings Lynn museum.

A choice can be made for the next part of the walk into Hunstanton. Either take the path through the dunes (which I did as I prefer to keep as near to the sea as possible) or follow the Peddars Way. Either way, do not miss the lighthouse just past Old Hunstanton. The lighthouse, which is now a private residence, was used from 1665 until 1921. In its early days the lights were called Chapel Lights after nearby St Edmunds Chapel. In 1776 it had the World’s first parabolic reflector - the current building was erected in 1840.

The former coastguard lookout which is next to the lighthouse was originally a Marconi listening post in both World Wars. It was instrumental in plotting the position of the German fleet prior to the Battle of Jutland in World War 1.

A little further along are the remains of St Edmund’s memorial chapel. Edmund of East Anglia was king of this area from 855 until 877. Legend has it that the chapel was constructed on this spot in 1272 to commemorate the Anglo-Saxon Edmund landing here in 855. After reigning peacefully for several years he had to defend his kingdom against the invading Danes. He was beaten in a battle at Thetford, taken prisoner and died a martyr’s death when being tied to a tree and killed with arrows. Later, his shrine at Bury St Edmunds in Suffolk became a place of pilgrimage and he became the first patron saint of England. The chapel in Hunstanton was used by monks for about 400 years before falling into neglect.

Be sure to look at the ‘hedge’ sculpture of a wolf and a nearby representation of a severed head. This recalls the local legend of Edmund’s beheading after he was killed and it being subsequently guarded by a wolf. The animal held the skull between his paws until it was claimed by locals and laid to rest. Near to this point is a bench remembering Edith Cavell (the First World War hero) who was a Norfolk nurse. 

The seafront buildings in this part of Hunstanton give it a more gentile appearance than some of the parts further along. Very attractive gardens have been laid out here for over a century and a nearby memorial remembers 31 victims of the floods in 1953.

The walk down the hill takes you into the livelier part of the resort with its numerous amusements, fairground type attractions and fast food outlets. ‘Sunny Hunny’s’ claim to fame is that it’s the only east coast resort where you can watch the sun setting over the sea (because it faces west over The Wash).

Leaving Hunstanton the hubbub dies down and there is a flat walk to Heacham alongside beach huts, caravans, bungalows and a few amusement parks. Heacham’s origins stretch back many years and there is a 13^th century church to admire. Thomas Rolfe (mentioned in the Gravesend walk) the husband of Pocahontas came from here.

Snaps show: St Edmund's Memorial Chapel, Hunstanton; the sculpture of the wolf near the chapel at Hunstanton; Hunstanton front; Holme Marshes

Walk 43 Burnham Overy Staithe to Brancaster (Norfolk)

Walk 43    Burnham Overy Staithe to Brancaster (Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 132

Distance: about 6 miles or 10 km.

Difficulty:  easy, flat

Terrain: paths mainly following the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coastal Path
Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Coasthopper bus runs in the summer to both ends.

Rejoin the walk at Burnham Overy Staithe. The path goes north for a bit before turning westwards alongside Trowland Creek. To the right, across the marshes is Scott Head Island a National Trust reserve. As the walk continues, to the left, inland, the village of Burnham Norton, birthplace of Nelson, can be seen in the distance. The track along this stretch is reputed to be a route used by smugglers.

Before reaching Burnham Deepdale I saw a derelict houseboat which looked as though it would be still OK for restoration – would be interested to know if it is still there. The Domesday Book listed seven Burnhams in this area, of which five remain - the three mentioned so far plus Burnham Thorpe and Burnham Market. All of these are small unspoilt villages typical of North Norfolk.

It is only a short distance to Brancaster Staithe. Two hundred years ago this village would have been surrounded by industry and activity. There are a number of dilapidated buildings to look out for on the walk through. The calm, quiet quayside was once occupied by an enormous malthouse built in the 1700s. In his 1929 History of Norfolk, John Chambers described it as one of the most remarkable curiosities in the county. The building was 100 metres long and stretched into the village, it was demolished between 1850 and 1870. Up to 120 tons of grain were processed into malt here each week but no malting takes place now. The quay was used by fishing and cargo boats until the 1900s. Fishermen now use a newly constructed quay which can be seen on the walk through – their catch includes mussels. The mudflats and saltmarshes around this area are protected by the National Trust. In Roman times a fort existed here garrisoned by troops from Dalmatia (now Croatia and Montenegro).

Further along reeds can be spotted growing near to the footpath. There is a history of reed cutting going back centuries in this part of Norfolk. It played an important part in the local economy providing much needed employment at harvest time especially when seas were rough and dangerous for fishermen. Most of the reeds are used for thatching.

The path continues to Brancaster. I feel it is worth breaking from the coastal path here to walk along to Brancaster Beach – a path follows the road for most of its length (I would not recommend the narrow road in busy times!) The vast expanse of sands becomes more impressive at low tide when the sea goes out a mile or so. To the west of the beach crabs can be found living in the fossilised remains of an ancient forest. About 1800 years ago the area was a Roman naval base. At that time the soldiers mainly collected oysters whereas local fishermen now mainly catch whelks and mussels.

The walk back to the village of Brancaster could finish with a welcome pint in The Ship Inn – named after the Victory and local hero Nelson.

Snaps show: Burnham Overy Staithe; Brancaster Staithe; Old boat and dilapidated buildings.

Wak 42 Stiffkey to Burnham Overy Staithe (Norfolk)

Walk 42     Stiffkey to Burnham Overy Staithe (Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 132

Distance:  about 11 miles or 17km

Difficulty:  fairly easy, mainly flat with some sand walking which can be tiring

Terrain: paths following the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coastal Path
Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Coasthopper bus runs in the summer to both ends.

Take the path north out of Stiffkey to rejoin the Peddars Way/Norfolk Coastal Path. The path follows along the edge of the marshes but is rather exposed as I found out to my cost when a violent thunderstorm erupted.

It is about 6 miles to the outskirts of Wells-next-the-Sea. This attractive resort with a bustling front is known locally as Wells. It derives its name from the spring wells which rise through the chalk. The North Sea is over a mile away because of the silting up of the harbour. Nearly all the whelks sold in Britain originate here. The attractive quay was much used in the past to load up with malt, corn and barley. The granary store is a prominent landmark on the quayside it retains the original exterior but has mostly been converted into flats. The extended top floor allowed sacks to be loaded directly on to the boats. There were once three brewers and four maltsters in the town satisfying the demands of the (then) forty local inns. It is recorded that some of the workers in the maltings were occasionally paid in beer. The area around here was regularly used for locations in the TV series Kingdom starring Stephen Fry.

On the west side of Wells the path goes northwards out towards Bob Hall’s Sand (could not find out why it is called this). However, during the season when the Wells and Walsingham Light Railway is functioning, it is well worth catching the train for an enjoyable ride alongside the path. Purists might say this is cheating. The 10.25” gauge railway was completed in 1982 due to the enthusiasm of one local man – Lt Cdr Roy Francis.

The sands along this section of coast are extensive - the tide goes out for over a mile. Beware – I was warned that the water comes in very quickly and there is a serious danger of getting stranded. Check the tides before going as much of the walk is along the shore. The walk heads inland from here to Holkham Gap and passes among a large number of pine trees. These trees were planted at the end of the nineteenth century in an attempt to stabilise the sand dunes (once these were sandy islands called 'meals') and protect reclaimed agricultural land. In later years, birch, oak and willow have been planted to provide a better environment for birds including the rare yellow browned bunting.

At Holkham Gap the walk continues along the sands – it is a matter of guess work where the path goes and I walked some time before finding the correct track inland to the east of Gun Hill. There appears to be no path markers on or near to the beach. I understand that the walk along the sands is particularly attractive in autumn as the dunes turn red with samphire – a plant which can be eaten and is sold in local shops as a delicacy.

The walk now goes inland alongside the River Burn towards Burnham Overy Staithe. The Staithe (a loading wharf) was probably established at the end of the middle ages when it was no longer possible for ships navigate the river into what is now Burnham Overy town. Look out for signs of Lord Nelson including a pub called The Hero. It is likely that Nelson took his first sail near here having been born in nearby Burnham Thorpe.

Snaps show: The sands near Wells; Stiffkey Marshes; Wells sea front; the small train to Wells Beach.

Walk 41 Sheringham to Stiffkey (Norfolk)

Walk 41          Sheringham to Stiffkey (Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 133 and 132

Distance: about 12 miles

Difficulty:  easy with a small amount of fairly easy cliff walking.

Terrain: paths following the Peddars Way
Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Coasthopper bus runs in the summer to both ends.

Start the walk at Sheringham following the Peddars Way in a westerly direction. The Peddars Way gets its name from the Latin 'pedester' meaning on foot. The path is about 46 miles long and follows the route of an old Roman road.

From the coast it is possible to see the steam trains of the North Norfolk Steam Railway chugging in and out of Sheringham. The path passes alongside a golf course and goes precariously close to the cliff edge – a diversion may be in place now. Good views along the coast can be had near Deadman’s Hill – an area owned by the National Trust.

The path descends in to Weybourne Hope, a number of small boats were being launched here when I visited. The area offers seaborne traffic both the shelter of the cliffs and deep water close to the shore. It was feared that this could be used by an attacking force especially during the time of the Spanish Armada. A verse of the time said:

            He who would old England win

            Must at Weybourne Hope begin.

The stretch of coast between Weybourne and Salthouse has a series of, what I assume are, military buildings tucked up a small cliff behind barbed wire and ‘Keep out’ notices. They emit rather sinister beeping noises and nearby graffiti has obscene comments about the military.

Salthouse is an attractive village which can be seen across the marshes. The stone cottages are dwarfed by a prominent church. The marshes have gradually spread since the 17^th century silting up the old port and cutting Salthouse off from the sea.

The path follows is alongside coast and marshes until cutting inland towards Cley-next-the-sea (Cley rhymes with eye). The area around here is Cley Eye (‘eye’ is old English for island) and the surrounding marshes are very popular with bird watchers. A system of dykes ensures an essential supply of fresh, clean water. Avocets and bittern are just two of the 275 species that have been recorded here. The village is now separated from the sea by half a mile of marshland disguising the fact that it was a flourishing port 400 years ago. A significant landmark is the windmill which was built in 1713 and is open to the public. Walking northwards from Cley is a long beach, owned by the National Trust, which stretches to Blakeney Point– seals can often be seen here if you fancy a bit of shingle-beach walking. If not you could catch a boat from the small harbour at Morston to Blakeney Point – Morston is a couple of miles further down the coast from Blakeney.

Follow the Peddars Way into Blakeney village. Flint or red brick cottages and large elegant houses overlook the creek with its sandy beaches. Floods overwhelmed the village in 1953. Continue through Morston and alongside Stiffkey (pronounced Stewkey) Marshes. The area is famous for its cockles known as ‘Stewkey Blues’. Nearby Stiffkey Hall which is partly in ruins was built by Sir Nicholas Bacon father of philosopher Francis Bacon. Stiffkey had an interesting rector in the 1930s. The Reverend Harold Davidson became known as the prostitutes’ parson – he spent much of his time reclaiming souls in Soho, London. Subsequently he was defrocked and ended up in a barrel on Blackpool sea front as a one man show berating the church. He then moved to a Skegness amusement park where he sat among lions until one ate him! 

Snaps show: across the marshes to Salthouse; Windmill at Cley next the sea; path out of Sheringham next to the golf course; a steam train on its way to Sheringham. Bottom group: Sheringham front; Cley marshes; Sheringham beach huts; wall art on Sheringham front; Weybourne looking towards Cley next the sea.

   

Walk 40 Overstrand to Sheringham (NE Norfolk)

Walk 40          Overstrand to Sheringham (NE Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 133

Distance: about 8 miles

Difficulty:  easy to moderate – some walking on sand - fairly easy cliff walking.

Terrain: paths, pavement, beach

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Regular service from Overstrand to Cromer (5) and Coasthopper service runs in the summer from Cromer to Sheringham. Check before going.

The stretch between Mundesley can be walked on the beach providing .there are no erosion problems near the cliffs.

Overstrand has suffered badly from erosion and continues to do so. A submerged village out at sea has become known as Understrand and a hotel that was once on the cliffs fell into the sea in 1950. This was originally a small fishing village but in the late  nineteenth century became known as the village of millionaires. A London journalist, Clement Scott, came here and nicknamed the area Poppyland. Many of his pals from London society moved up here and bought property.

When I was here the cliff path was closed and I had to walk out of the village to take the path across the golf course which joins up with the cliff top path (see OS map). Another option may be to walk along the beach. Look out for the octagonal lighthouse on the cliff top. It was built in 1833 and is a classical reference to the lighthouse at Alexandria. Approaching Cromer you walk through an area called Happy Valley which is treasured for its wildlife.

Cromer is an attractive place. On the walk into the town along the promenade there is a memorial to Henry Bloggs a local life boat hero - his exploits can be read about on the plaque. In the near distance is the church of St Peter and St Paul which has the tallest church tower in Norfolk. The area around the church is surrounded by fishermen’s cottages and quaint streets. The pier sticks prominently into the sea. It has been rebuilt twice after damage in the Second World War and then after flood damage in 1953. There has been entertainment on the pier since 1901. A newly refurbished pier was opened in 2004 by Stephen Fry who recalled working as a waiter at a local hotel called the Hotel de Paris. Past guests in include Oscar Wilde and the then Prince of Wales.

Cromer Lifeboat station has been of huge importance in the area because of the proximity of sandbanks. They were so feared by sailors that they became known as The Devil’s Throat. Horses and carts carrying coal were once pulled up the gangway that leads to the lifeboat station. Later on, bathing machines were pulled up the same route to be stored during the winter months.

The walk along Cromer promenade is very pleasant. If you have time stop off to try the world famous Cromer crabs. Originally, these were caught off Cromer all year round along with lobsters and herring; today the focus is on crab and lobster. The crabs were caught in hoop nets until the 1870s when the crab pot was introduced. These could be left out overnight and greatly improved the catch.

The walk continues to the West Cliffs which have been planted with wild buckthorn to prevent slippage. Further along are attractive gardens, a bowling green and public open space. Continue along to East and West Runton – I chose to walk along the road but it looked possible to go via the beach instead.

A famous fictitious resident of the area is 'Thee of Thieves' who is a mythical character from local folk tales. Bizarrely, there is a true tale of a local blacksmith who chopped off his own infected toe and cauterised the wound with a red hot poker! A plaque at a pub in West Runton recalls a concert once given there by the Sex Pistols. A nearby shire-horse centre is popular with visitors.

The path cuts into Sheringham from the road and onto the coast - the start of The Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path. Colourful beach huts are on the east promenade and a mural produced by local secondary school children adorns the wall. No graffiti was evident in the area.

There are two distinct historical divisions in the town. The top part was agricultural and the lower thrived on the fishing industry. Sheringham is now a bustling holiday resort. Since 1780 the town has had a reputation for lobsters and a small amount of fishing still takes place. The North Norfolk Steam railway terminates in the town. It runs frequently during the summer (check website for time and events), covers 10.5 miles through country side and is run mainly by volunteers.

Snaps show: a view of Overstrand; Cromer Pier; another view of Overstrand beach; Cromer lifeboat station.