Walk 37 Lowestoft to Great Yarmouth

Walk 37    Lowestoft to Great Yarmouth (Suffolk/Norfolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 134

Distance: about 17km or 10 miles

Difficulty: mostly flat, some fairly easy low cliff walking

Terrain: paths, pavement, beach

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Trains at Lowestoft and Great Yarmouth. Regular bus service 1/1A seven days a week between the two towns.

This is a frustrating walk because dangerous cliff erosion means diversions on to roads and sometimes on to the beach.

Thanks for the comments regarding this walk.

Starting at the Euroscope in Lowestoft the walk continues north following the cycle path alongside the beach and sea. The area has become a centre for the development of renewable energy. Lowestoft was a producer of porcelain in the 18^th century and there are examples in the town’s museum.

The area around Lowestoft is one of the driest places in the UK which is good if you are planning to do things outdoors! The path turns inland and from here to Corton it is a walk along the road. To the south of the village is a large theme/holiday park called Pleasurewood Hills. Part of the beach at Corton was an officially designated nudist area but I understand that the council put a stop to this.

To the north of the village is a path following along the top of Corton Cliffs – be aware that there may well be diversions to this path because of erosion. Hopton-on-Sea is another area with holiday villages and access to the sea. The resort is well known for hosting the World Indoor Bowls Championships. The comedians Joe Pasquale and Eddie Large are two past residents of the area. The county border with Norfolk is just to the south of Hopton.

The walk continues alongside a golf course until it reaches Gorleston Cliffs and Gorleston-on-Sea. The town was once a centre for the herring fishing industry. There is a pleasant beach and the buildings reflect more thriving times during the Edwardian era. The closure of the town’s three railway stations, the last in 1970, probably reflected a decline in popularity while at the same time contributing to it (in my view). The southern part of Great Yarmouth is visible across the water.

The walk continues along roads near to the long channel of water that leads into Great Yarmouth. The next walk starts at the South Beach through the interesting and lively town of Great Yarmouth.

Snaps show: thatched cottage on seafront at Lowestoft; RNLI sculpture near the lifting bridge, Lowestoft; the bridge lifted; fountains near the central seafront, Lowestoft..

Walk 36 Kessingland to Lowestoft

Walk 36  Kessingland to Lowestoft (Suffolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R156 and 134

Distance: about 11km or 7 miles
Difficulty: mostly flat, some easy low cliff walking

Terrain: paths, beach

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Trains at Lowestoft. Bus 602 – 4 a day Mon to Sat every 2 hours going from Lowestoft and stopping at Kessingland. 

There are a number of interesting and attractive churches in this part of the country. Most are best got to by car. One that I found quite stunning is St Peters at Theberton (north of Leiston) – it has a thatched medieval roof and an unusual round tower. The inside has colourful pillars and walls - these are modern but probably reflect the original decoration.

The walk starts at the Sailors Home pub in Kessingland – the sign states that it sells the best fish and chips in Kessingland!  A large scrubby beach has to be crossed to get to the sea. There has been a settlement at Kessingland since ancient times. The sea provided the village with its main livelihood. At one time the residents paid a rent of 22000 herrings to their lords which made it probably more important than nearby Lowestoft.

Up until the 1960s the village had two communities the ‘beach’ and the ‘street’. It was then combined into one community when a large housing estate was built. During the summer the population of 4000 nearly doubles with the arrival of holiday makers. One of the most famous residents was Sir Rider Haggard (author of She and King Solomon’s Mines) who owned a house near the cliffs.

Walking northwards, Lowestoft can be seen in the distance – part of this walk I completed on the beach and the rest on the path that runs alongside it. Behind some beach huts at Pakefield a thatched church of over a thousand years old is next to the path. It was destroyed by Cromwell and then in World War 2 but has since been restored.

On the south side of Lowestoft is a pleasant park adjacent to the seafront. An impressive statue of Richard Henry Reeve, former lord of the manor, has been erected here. The pristine sands of the south beach helped the town become a holiday resort in the nineteenth century. From the middle-ages fishing, particularly herrings, had been the lifeblood of the town. In the civil war, rivalry with the herring fisheries of Great Yarmouth resulted in the towns taking opposite sides – Lowestoft supported the Royalists.

The first lighthouse built by Trinity House was built in Lowestoft in 1609 and when the town’s lifeboat station opened in 1801 it predated the RNLI by 23 years. Walking along the promenade there are indicators for the Peto Trail. Samuel Peto had a significant impact on Lowestoft and it owes much of its success to him. He helped to establish a proper harbour and a railway line so fish could be delivered to Manchester. He bought nearby Somerleyton Hall (open to public) and made it into a large mansion for himself. Benjamin Britten was born in Lowestoft and a local school is named after him.

Walking further along to the main Lowestoft seafront, near the attractive glass built east pavilion, take care as there are a number of concealed fountains which spurt unannounced through the pavement in the square! Looking across the harbour is an industrial area built up when the fishing industry declined. Originally this area would have had kipper houses for smoking and floating shops called ‘grog shops’ which would have served the many fishing ships.

Walking to the north of Lowestoft involves walking across the harbour bridge. When I was there it had lifted to allow a boat through causing traffic chaos and stranding a paramedic on an emergency call. Near to the bridge is a large sculpture of a lifeboatman, in honour of the RNLI, looking out to Dogger Bank the sea area used for fishing. Don’t miss the walk out to the Euroscope (showing distances/directions to places across the sea) which is at Lowestoft Ness or Ness Point – this is the most easterly point of the UK.

Snaps show: St Peter's thatched church at Theberton; Kessingland; two views of walk to Lowestoft.

Walk 35 Aldeburgh to Southwold

Walk 35  Aldeburgh to Southwold (Suffolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R156

Distance: about 12 miles

Difficulty: mostly flat  

Terrain: paths, beach

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Not easy. OK to get to Aldeburgh from Ipswich and surrounding towns by bus e.g. the 64. Unfortunately, there appears to be no direct link back to Aldeburgh or Ipswich by bus from Southwold. It really depends on where you are staying.

This walk begins and ends with visits to attractive and interesting towns. To the south of Aldeburgh, past Fort Green (Aldeburgh means ‘old fort’) are the marshes and access to part of Orford Ness. I did not go further south than this point as I wanted to ensure I could complete the walk on a winter’s day. The walk along the front at Aldeburgh is very pleasant with some attractive buildings to look at. One of these, a white detached cottage called Paradise, appears to be in the middle of a car park!

Aldeburgh was once well known for building ships including Francis Drake’s Pelican and Greyhound. Fishing smacks for the rough seas around the Faroes and Iceland were also built nearby. Fishing is still evident here and boats with nearby fisherman’s stalls selling a variety of seafood – good smells and colour. In 1870 a local man came up with the idea of drilling holes in the side of his ship so that the hold would fill with water and newly caught cod could stay alive until the return to port. As far as I can tell this was not terribly successful.

Further along, just past the war memorial, is the Moot Hall. This old building was once the main meeting place in the centre of the town showing how much the beach has eroded at Aldeburgh. Nearby is a church where, before the advent of modern lighthouses, local people burned barrels of tar on the church to guide returning fishermen.

Just north of the town is the expanse of Aldeburgh beach with its striking shell like sculpture. This is a memorial to Benjamin Britten who died in 1976. He was the founder, along with his partner Peter Pears (a baritone singer), of the Aldeburgh music festival. The sculpture, unveiled in 2003, is called the ‘scallop’ and is made of stainless steel. It is controversial as some locals feel that it spoils the view out to sea. It is engraved with: 'I hear those voices that will not be drowned'. This comes from Britten’s adaption of the opera Peter Grimes which was originally written by local poet George Crabbe in the 18^th century.

About three miles walk up the coast is Thorpeness. This was originally built as an Edwardian holiday village with the houses designed in a variety of styles including Tudor and Jacobean. It is worth a walk further inland to get a closer look at a most remarkable building which can be seen from near the coast. A tall looking building called ‘The house in the clouds’ is in fact a water tower disguised as a house!

When I walked further to the north from here there were digging machines constructing flood defences and some diversions to the path. Some of the sand dunes along this part of the coast are collapsing. The next landmark is striking but probably less agreeable - depending on your point of view. Sizewell Nuclear Power Station with its large ball can be seen from some distance away. There are two nuclear power stations here, I believe Sizewell A has now been decommissioned leaving Sizewell B built in the early 1990s as the only large pressurised water reactor in the UK.

Some of the walk from here is on the foreshore before the path cuts inland to Dunwich (pronounced Dunich) through an attractive nature reserve. Dunwich is an ancient and historic place – it was originally the capital of East Anglia. In Saxon times St Felix spread the Christian word from his base at Dunwich. In the middle ages it was one of the largest ports in Western Europe with a population of 3000, and 8 churches. In 1286 a storm swept most of the town into the sea and the harbour went next in 1328. 400 houses were destroyed in a tempest in 1347. Erosion has continued and all 8 churches have vanished. Legend has it that in storms you can still hear the church bells ringing.

Many writers and poets have been attracted to Dunwich including the American author Henry James who wrote stories and verses about it. On the walk inland are the remains of Dunwich Greyfriars which, at the time I visited, was being restored by English Heritage. Greyfriars were the ‘social workers’ of medieval society.

From this point the path moves away a bit from the coastal edge to pass alongside marshland. The next landmarks are Walberswick and the River Blyth. The village is known among painters for the clarity of its light. I understand that it is possible to cross the Blyth by ferry but, at the time I went, this was not running so I walked up the southern bank of the Blyth and crossed the bridge and down the north bank to Southwold. The banks are attractive with much boating activity. The marshes surrounding the green knoll on which Southwold stands have saved the rather genteel and attractive town from over development as they cannot be built upon.

Cannons pointing seawards over the cliff tops are situated on the southern side of Southwold. These were sent here by Charles 1 for protection against privateers. Attractive greens intersperse the housing – there were houses here in the 17^th century but they were destroyed by fire. Southwold was once a major fishing post but lost its status because of the gradual appearance of a shingle bar across the harbour entrance.

The decommissioned lighthouse cannot be missed as you approach the town. If you enjoy beer (like me) you will be interested to know that Adnams is brewed nearby (Broadside is my favourite). Just off the coast here at Sole Bay in 1672 a combined English and French fleet fought an inconclusive battle against the Dutch. Many months after the corpses from the battle were washed up on shore and local people could earn a shilling by recovering a burying a body.

Walking further north there are many colourful beach huts. I am hoping that the pier is still like it was when I visited a couple of years ago – I believe it has been up for sale. It is well worth a visit, interesting features include: a fascinating water clock, a brilliant amusement arcade with quirky games e.g. cross the road with a zimmer frame, a pier tide recording device and good quality cafes and shops. The original pier, 810 feet long, was built in 1900 as a landing stage for steamships that travelled from London Bridge. This declined in the 1930s as more people travelled by road. In WW2 the pier was sectioned in fear of a German invasion, a sea mine struck it in 1941 destroying a section and in 1955 it was reduced to 60 foot by a storm. In 1987 it was privately bought and rebuilt and, by 2001, it was at its current length of 623 feet. I hope any new owners have kept it the same as it is a unique experience.

Snaps show: lighthouse at Southwold; zimmer frame game on Southwold Pier; water clock on Southwold Pier; River Blyth; walk into Southwold; front at Aldeburgh; Benjaman Britten sculpture Aldeburgh beach; Aldeburgh front; fisherman's stall Aldeburgh.



Walk 34 Orford to the River Alde opposite Aldeburgh and return (Suffolk)

Walk 34  Orford to the River Alde opposite Aldeburgh and return (Suffolk)

                (Plus suggested drive to The Maltings)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R169 and L/R156

Distance: about 12 miles return

Difficulty: easy, flat  

Terrain: paths

Access: Parking at Orford

Public transport: Not really viable unless bus services have improved.

Follow Quay Road from Orford car park towards the sea. The pleasant village with mellow houses was a busy port at the time of Henry 11. It ceased being a fishing port in the 1800s when a shingle spit, Orford Ness, developed making access to the harbour more and more difficult. The spit is nearly ten miles long now. When the quayside is reached Orford Ness can be clearly seen across the River Ore.

A short walk to the south allows a good view of the village inland which is dominated by Orford Castle. This was built by Henry 11 to keep the then Earl of Norfolk, Hugh Bigod, under control and also to protect the coast. It is unique amongst British castles as it has a circular central part flanked by three turrets. It was built in 1865 and is the oldest British castle with remaining documentary evidence – part of this shows it cost £1413-9s-2d to build!

About a mile further walk to the south is Chantry Point with a view of Havergate Island and the strangely named Cuckolds Point. A number of small boats are dotted around here. The island was taken over by the RSPB in 1947 and is noted for avocets which breed there. Retrace your steps back to Orford quay.

On the opposite bank there is much of interest on Orford Ness. It has been owned by the National Trust since 1993, even so there is limited access to it should you wish to explore. Ferries run from Orford Tuesday to Saturdays between 10 and 2 mainly from July to October. There is a Saturday service a few weeks either side of this – in any case it is wise to check before going. I viewed the Ness from the river bank on the walk northwards in the direction of Aldeburgh. An iconic red and white lighthouse is prominent and further up a large concrete building surrounded by large aerials. This is where BBC Radio transmits the World Service. The buildings were originally top secret and built by the military for testing atomic bomb detonators – the idea being that if something went badly wrong the pillars of the building would collapse and the heavy roof fall sealing the mess underneath! The spit is one of the most important of its kind in the country and is favoured by shingle loving birds and plants.

The path goes northwards alongside Sudbourne Marshes and Orford Ness. Near the Aldeburgh end, on the opposite bank, is Slaughden. This is the name for the stretch of land with sailing clubs and a boatyard which finishes at the Martello Tower. It was a busy, commercial quayside in past centuries. A map in Aldeburgh museum shows great activity in the year of the Armada – 1588.

Looking northwards at Westrow Reach is the southern end of Aldeburgh. Retrace your steps back to Orford.

If there is time, a short drive to The Maltings near Snape is worthwhile. The Maltings now include an array of craft shops, galleries and a concert hall. The buildings, based on the banks of the River Alde, were originally granaries and malt-houses for the brewing of beer. They were built in the nineteenth century by Newson Garret whose ten children included Elizabeth Garret Anderson, Britain’s first woman physician. The brewery was closed in 1960 and converted into the current buildings. The world class concert hall houses the Aldeburgh Music Festival inaugurated by Benjamin Britten (born and lived locally) and his partner Peter Pears. Nearby is the Holst Library, named after Benjamin Britten’s friend Imogen Holst – the daughter of Gustav Holst. It contains a range of reference material and recordings of many genres of music.

Snaps show: Orford village; Orford Castle; Orford Ness; riverside at Snape Maltings.

Walk 33 Felixstowe to Butley (Suffolk)

Walk 33  Felixstowe to Butley (Suffolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R169 and L/R156

Distance: about 14 miles

Difficulty: quite easy, mostly flat  

Terrain: paths (which can be muddy) and pavements

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Lots of links to Felixstowe by bus or rail. Difficult from Butley, just one bus in the late afternoon. Taxi the only realistic option. 

This walk also involves using the Felixstowe ferry to Bawdsey Quay which only operates between April and October – not sure of precise dates in these months so check before going.

The walk starts at Felixstowe Pier. Felixstowe was bombed in World War 2 but, unusually, by the Italian air force. A number of famous people are connected with the town including Sir John Mills the actor, Mrs Wallis of Edward V111 fame (who lived here while waiting for the abdication) and Benny Hill the comedian who owned a weekend home in the area and spent time with his disabled daughter.

Walking north out of Felixstowe are some unusual, if rather bland looking rows of beach huts – at least I think that’s what they are. On the hill above is a rather impressive looking building which I believe is a college. Further along are the pleasantly situated Spa Pavilion Theatre and Restaurant.

The path widens as it approaches the estuary of the River Deben and Felixstowe Ferry. Two Martello Towers are along this stretch, one nearer to the ferry. The walls of the towers contain over 700,000 bricks brought in by sea from London. The towers, known by the letters ‘T’ and ‘U’, are two of eighteen which were built along the Suffolk coast.

Felixstowe Ferry is a hamlet near the passenger ferry which connects it to Bawdsey Quay. The Ferry Boat Inn (known as FBI), built in the 15^th century, is a distinctive landmark. Further along near to the ferry embarkation point is the Victoria Pub and an art gallery.

The pleasant ferry crossing gives a good view of Woodbridge Haven and the North Sea. Nearby is RAF Bawdsey which is where the early warning system in World War 2 was developed. The path continues on to Bawdsey Beach and becomes indistinguishable from the pebbles. This area is a happy hunting ground for beachcombers with finds ranging from barrels of Guinness to quite valuable pieces of amber. Bawdsey Manor peeps above the trees on the left; this is now owned by the MOD and was where modern radar was invented.

After a couple of miles the path goes inland and access back to the coast is down East Lane in the village of Bawdsey. A few more Martello Towers can be seen along this stretch where they were known as ‘Mr Pitt’s pork pies’. Near the start of this stretch is the ruin of a gun battery and observation tower used in World War 2. On the shore line the army also built ‘dragons’ teeth’ – lines of angled iron stakes and barbed wire with tank blocks to prevent enemy landings.

About three miles further on is Shingle Street - strongly linked to a story from the last war which has not been officially acknowledged. There are lively discussions on the Web with some allegedly eye witness accounts. In 1940 our forces apparently got wind of a German invasion but some misinformation led them to believe that this would be at Folkestone and Dover in Kent. A conspiracy theory links the possible involvement of the then Dukes of Hamilton and York. It is believed that British Intelligence got wind that the invasion would be at Shingle Street and laid pipes into the sea which were set alight and many Germans were burnt to death. There are tales of badly charred bodies being washed up on the coast. It is suggested that the story remained secret as it was bad for morale coming so soon after the evacuation of Dunkirk.

A mile or so further on from Shingle Street is the unusual estuary of the River Ore with the very long and narrow Orford Beach across the water. The path continues past Hollesly Marshes - an important nature reserve. Inland the stark buildings of the Hollesly Youth Detention and Custody Centre are clearly visible.

Near to Boyton Marshes is an attractive area of marsh interspersed with water called Simpson’s Saltings. This is an important botanical site containing rare species of plants. The path swings inland with views across the River Butley to Gedgrave Marshes on the other side. Just before the path leaves the river bank a hand written notice announces that this is where the Butley foot ferry can be caught. A heavy mist had descended by the time I had reached this point giving it all a rather eerie feel.

The paths should be followed across fields and roads (continuing on map 156) to Butley. When I went the pub in Butley which announced it was open all day was closed with the ‘Open all Day’ notice folded up at the front. A roaring fire could be seen through the window and staff laughing. It was a cold day and I was not amused. To make matters worse Su, my wife, who was picking me up got completely lost so I was standing on the green outside the pub shivering for over an hour. We invested in SatNav after this. Things then got even worse as a deer emerged out of the mist as we were driving back to Woodbridge and caused considerable damage to the car. To cap it all the alarm on the car went off in the early hours waking us up along with the rest of the hotel. When I reported and explained the accident to the insurance company they asked me who caused the accident and whether I exchanged details with the other party! The deer? Unbelievable.

Snaps show: Bawdsey with Martello Tower; Simpsons Saltings; Shingle Street; Butley Ferry.

Walk 32 Nacton to Felixstowe (Suffolk)

Walk 32  Nacton to Felixstowe (Suffolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R169

Distance: about 13 miles

Difficulty: quite easy, mostly flat  

Terrain: paths (which can be muddy) and pavements

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Tricky. Bus 163 goes from Ipswich on a couple of days a week leaving at 12:35 and getting to Nacton at 12:50. This is rather late for a 13 mile walk unless it is in the summer. Another option is to follow the Stour and Orwell walk out of Ipswich but this does extend the walk by a few miles. Getting back from Felixstowe to Ipswich is easy - by train or bus.

This is a river side and coastal walk.

Take the road out of Nacton to the Stour and Orwell Walk along the estuary. Nacton is well known for the story of Margaret Catchpole who fell in love with a smuggler and eloped with him, she was captured and sentenced to death. She escaped then was recaptured and finally transported to Australia. The story is told in ‘The History of Margaret Catchpole’ by Richard Cobbold. Before reaching the river path there is a large impressive building on the right, this is Orwell Park School. This independent school was once called Orwell Park House and was the home of the 18^th century admiral Sir Edward Vernon. He was nicknamed ‘old grog’ because he wore a coat made of grogram (coarse fabric made of wool and silk). It was he who introduced the daily ration of grog (rum and water) to Royal Navy sailors. This stopped in 1970.

The path winds its way up a creek to near Levington. The area had a thriving fertiliser industry in the 17 and 1800s. What is thought to have been a Viking ship was found in this creek and was probably part of a fleet of Danish ships which invaded in 991. In 1817 smugglers were arrested in the creek carrying 48 tubs of spirits on a boat called Daisy. The path winds its way back down the creek and there are good views across the river and towards the estuary. A little further along is the modern yacht harbour which opened in 1970.

The path skirts around the edge of Trimley Marshes. This is a wetland nature reserve managed by the Suffolk Wildlife Trust since 1990 and is reportedly one of the best of its kind in the country. The number of birds and range of species is impressive; more details can be found on the Trust’s website.

From here the path works inland and eventually meets up with a roundabout then it goes alongside the road behind the Port of Felixstowe until meeting a junction – at this point the cycle path can be followed to Landguard Fort. Felixstowe is a town of two halves – the hustle and bustle of the busy port (the fourth largest container port in the UK) and the pleasant sea front and beaches of the main town.

Landguard Fort is now owned by English Heritage and is open between April and October, it also houses a museum about Felixstowe. There has been a fort here since the time of Henry V111 and has been added to and renewed over the years. In 1667 an attempted invasion by 1500 Dutch marines was repelled. In World War 2 thousands of balloons were launched from here with incendiary devices bound for Germany. Strangely,the area has many reports of paranormal activity. The cranes of the port can be seen to the west and Harwich is clearly visible across the estuary.

The area around Landguard is a nature reserve and on the walk back to Felixstowe I discovered a sign announcing that Stinking Goosefoot grows here and it is apparently very rare! The beach just north of Landguard Point is famed for its semi-precious stones including amber, agate, Whitby jet and jasper.

Walking towards Felixstowe there are many beach huts with a Martello Tower behind them - this appears to have a coastguard lookout on top. Felixstowe was no more than a village until 1877 when the opening of the railway made it an attraction to Victorian holiday-makers and day-trippers.

The main frontage at Felixstowe has the usual array of seaside attractions although it does have a smart and well-cared for appearance. Particularly, attractive is the replica of a Felixstowe Flying Boat with its grassed over wings. These aircraft were developed in World War 1 from an American design. About 100 were built and used for North Sea patrols.

The walk finishes at Felixstowe Pier – at one time the longest in East Anglia. It was opened in 1905 and originally catered for steamers calling at other places such as Clacton and Great Yarmouth. A tramway originally ran to the end. It was sectioned off during the World War 2 as it was felt that it could aid a German invasion. The end was neglected and demolished making the pier much shorter. It has never really recovered and new plans which have been put forward from time to time have never really come to fruition. As far as I know it is still closed to visitors. 

Snaps show: a view of Felixstowe Port; walk out of Felixstowe; the replica of a Felixstowe flying boat; the River Debden.

Walk 31 Stutton to Chelmondiston (Suffolk)

Walk 31  Stutton to Chelmondiston (Suffolk)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R169

Distance: about 13 miles

Difficulty: quite easy, mostly flat

Terrain: paths which can be muddy

Access: Parking in the road at both ends

Public transport: Just about possible. The 92 from Ipswich goes to Stutton every 2 hours or so (Mon-Sat) and the 202 runs every 2/3 hours back to Ipswich from Chelmondiston. As always, check before departing.

This is a quiet walk around the Shotley Peninsula which can feel quite remote at times. It takes in the north of the River Stour, Harwich Harbour and the southern bank of the River Orwell.

Leave the peaceful village of Stutton and take the road then path which goes east and slightly south to Stutton Ho. On the left are the impressive buildings of the Royal Hospital School. The school moved from Greenwich in 1933 and was founded for the sons of seafarers in 1694. It is now a large independent school for students aged 11-18.

Continue around Holbrook Bay where there are a number of small boats moored. This part of the river was famous for Anglo-Saxon fish traps which are evidently visible at low tide. Baskets were placed in wooden 'V' like structures and the fish trapped. The walk from here to Shotley Gate is quiet with very few people around, however the bustling ports of Harwich and Felixstowe are only a few miles away and are clearly visible in the distance.

Shotley Gate is at the end of the peninsula. Look out for the signalling tower and green water tower which stand on the remains of a Martello Tower. There is a notice referring to HMS Ganges along the front and a museum which tells its story. It was a wooden ship berthed here from 1899 and used as a cadet training ship for the Royal Navy. When it was removed from here in 1905 the training was moved on land but still called HMS Ganges. This was closed in 1976. Some of the area is now a Eurosport educational and residential centre. Walk round past the marina to Shotley Point where the Rivers Orwell and Stour. King Alfred defeated the Danes at this point in 885, since then there have been many battles here against France, Germany, Holland, Spain and Germany. The point is also known as Bloody Point as it is commonly thought to have been the location of Viking landings.

The path follows the Orwell inland past Shotley Marshes and around to Pin Mill and the Butt and Oyster. This pub provides a roaring fire and good beer especially welcome on a cold day. It is named after the oysters which were caught in abundance from the River Orwell and the barrels they were stored in. The pub was built in the 17^th century and was used by water bailiffs and burgesses from the port at Ipswich for their courts. The tide was out when I sat in the lounge and the green algae and small boats which dominated the scene made it easy to imagine how it was once a smugglers haven. Near to the pub is Cat House which was also connected with smuggling. The silhouette of a cat was placed in a window to tell smugglers it was safe to land. The smugglers were known as ‘owlers’ because they used to communicate with owl noises. The area was also one of the settings for Arthur Ransome’s book ‘We didn’t mean to go to sea’.

Walk out of Pin Mill and there is a footpath on the right into Chelmondiston.

Snaps show: The Royal Hospital School near Stutton from the River Stour; Holbbrook Bay on the River Stour; Bath and Oyster Pub; the river near the pub.