Walk 23 St Lawrence to Maylandsea (Essex)

Walk 23  St Lawrence to Maylandsea (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 8 miles

Difficulty: easy, flat

Terrain: roads and paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Buses D1/D2 go every hour from Maylandsea starting/returning to Maldon. D1 goes to/from St Lawrence to Maylandsea every 2 hours or so. Both Monday to Friday but with cuts in the offing it is wise to check timetables.

The walk starts at the Stone in St Lawrence. This is a pleasant section with some good views across the River Blackwater. The path winds its way around for a mile or so then turns inland down a track by-passing Stansgate Abbey Farm. This is where the famous politician Tony Benn lived and there has been some controversy about access to the coast here being denied to the public. Before turning inland the eastern end of Osea Island can be seen.

This island has an interesting history. It was owned in the early 1900s by a member of the Charrington brewing family who was a leading light in the temperance movement. He had disinherited himself from the family business and opened a retreat on the island for wealthy alcoholics (known as gentleman inebriates) and opiate addicts. During World War 1 the island was taken over by 2000 sailors who were billeted there as part of the Coastal Motor Torpedo Force. It was also occupied by the forces during World War 2.  From 2005 to 2010 the Causeway Retreat was opened as a centre for dealing with addiction. Amy Winehouse, the late singer, was a patient there. However, it was found to be operating without a proper licence and was closed in 2010.

The path continues along Steeple Creek and down Mayland Creek. This inlet seems to go on for a long time before winding around to the opposite bank. The path northwards up the opposite side of Mayland Creek was poorly marked when I walked this section so some educated guesswork needed. The path goes past small lakes and is adjacent to marshland at the top end of Mayland Creek and Lawling Creek. Follow the path around to enjoy a good view of Mundon Creek and the marina.

Maylandsea is popular with fossil hunters. Lobster fragments are most common but sharks teeth and other fish remains have been found. During World War 2 Maylandsea boatyard was home to the secret building of Motor Torpedo Boats and Launches used to hunt enemy submarines.

Snaps show: St Lawrence/Ramsey Island; looking towards Osea Island; two of the walk to Mayland.

Walk 22 Bradwell on Sea to St Lawrence

Walk 22   Bradwell on Sea to St Lawrence (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 10 miles

Difficulty: easy, flat

Terrain: roads and paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: Bus D1 goes every couple of hours starting/returning to Maldon. It also goes from Bradwell on Sea to St Lawrence. Check timetables as some journeys involve changes.

Follow the Roman Road eastwards out of Bradwell on Sea. (It was once called Bradwell near the Sea which is probably more accurate as the village is over a mile from the nearest water.) Go past East Hall Farm to St Peter’s Chapel which overlooks the North Sea.

‘St Peters on the Wall’ (the sea wall) is one of the oldest surviving chapels in England and is built on the site of Othona, a Roman fort. It is a simple barn like construction built in 654 by Bishop Cedd who travelled down from Lindisfarne. It was used by farmers for a while and bits are patched up where wagons entered. A pilgrimage is held here on the first Saturday of every July. I found it to be a picturesque spot on a sunny, calm day.

Continue northwards with the beach of St Peter’s Flat on the right. The path turns into the estuary of the River Blackwater with West Mersea visible on the opposite bank. The now decommissioned Bradwell Nuclear Power Station is a significant landmark at this point. It was built here partly because of easy access and the unlimited supply of cooling water. In 2010 it was one of eight sites identified by the government for a new generation of nuclear power stations. In part of the river opposite the power station is a long concrete structure – I have not been able to find out its purpose.

A mile or so past the power station is Bradwell Waterside. This is a narrow sheltered stretch of water with a marina and many boats. Opposite is Pewet Island where the remains of Saxon fish traps have been found. After passing Bradwell Creek the path goes inland for a little way before getting nearer to the water at St Lawrence Bay.

St Lawrence is a popular spot in the warmer months. There is a large caravan park and several visitors take advantage of the water-sports and sailing facilities. The waterfront village is often called ‘The Stone’ - this is also the name of a local pub.

Snaps show: St Peters on the Wall; Bradwell Waterside; St Peters Flat; the structure opposite Bradwell Power station. 

Walk 21 Burnham on Crouch to Tillingham

Walk 21 Burnham on Crouch to Tillingham (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 14 miles including walk inland to car/bus

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: mostly paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport: If a bus is needed one way it may be easier to walk this backwards from Tillingham. Bus D4 leaves Burnham on Crouch at 9:33 and 11:33 (on weekdays) and takes about 30 minutes to get to Tillingham. The other way a bus goes from Tillingham at 2:05 but unless the walk is started very early would not allow enough time. There are buses after this at 3:47 and 6:35 but these involve 2 changes and lengthy journeys. Further info. on traveline.org.uk

As the map shows there is very little access to the coast except by the occasional farm track. After the northern turn away from the River Crouch estuary it is a walk alongside flat marshland; some may call it bleak but it has its own unique atmosphere. Don’t expect to see many other walkers on the second half of this walk.

Start the walk at the seafront of Burnham-on-Crouch. On the opposite shore is the ferry landing/embarkation point on Wallasea Island. When the Black Death ravaged England in the 14^th century the sailors of Burnham were the only men prepared to ship grain into London. As a reward they were given the right to land corn in the capital free of all taxes forever. (Now?)

Continuing along the estuary the buildings on the north of Foulness Island can be spotted across the estuary. The occasional World War 2 fortification can be seen near to the footpath, other wise the landscape is rather featureless. (Botanists and wildlife experts may well disagree with this!) 

Turning northwards near Holliwell there is a vast area called Ray Sand – at least there is if the tide is out. Along this part of the coast the tide goes out about 2 miles but comes in right up to the shore line. It can be very dangerous to walk on the sandy beaches, although, here and there, a few fishermen can be spotted on the nearby shore. Inland are Dengie and Tillingham Marshes. Dengie marshes have been denuded of trees in the last 30 years due to Dutch Elm disease – adding to its desolate appearance. It was a very quite and peaceful walk but would be less so if the military ranges to the south were active.

Follow the path up until it joins St Peters Path which then heads inland towards Tillingham. The path passes through Dots and Melons which turned out to be a farm building housing a tool wholesaler. The centre of Tillingham is a conservation area which includes a 15^th century pub called the ‘The Cap and Feathers’ and a church with a Norman nave, 13^thcentury chapel and 14^th century tower.

Snaps show: views along the walk including Dengie Marshes, Ray Sands, an old World War 2 fortification and the ferry crossing from Wallasea Island.

Walk 20 North Fambridge to Burnham on Crouch

Walk 20 North Fambridge to Burnham on Crouch (Essex)

(First leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs in Kent to Berwick at the border with Scotland).

Map: L/R 168

Distance: about 8 miles including walk inland to car/train

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: mostly paths some of which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport – Trains at North Fambridge and Burnham on Crouch – they leave every 40 minutes except for Sundays when once an hour.

Follow the road down from Fambridge station then the footpath that takes you to the walk along the River Crouch on the Dengie Peninsula. At low tide there are large areas of grassed marshland, rather attractive in their own way. The area was once land but in 1897 floods smashed through the river wall.

The walk continues around Bridgemarsh Creek opposite the marshy Bridgemarsh Island. Following a flood in 1736 a sea wall was built around the island and a causeway gave access at low tide. Farming took place and a brickworks was built (the chimney of which still survives on the island). A tramway linked the works with a quay visited by Thames barges. The major floods of 1953 resulted in the end of regular occupation of the island and it is now a haven for wildlife and salt marsh flowers. A trust looks after the area.

The path winds its way past Althorne Creek and on to Creeksea which is about a mile west of Burnham. This place (along with Bosham in Sussex) is said to be the site where King Canute tried to defy the tide. RAF fast rescue boats and motor torpedo boats operated from here during World War 2.

Burnham on Crouch is a very pleasant spot. Part of the town has elegant Georgian buildings. It has been called the Cowes of the east coast and is an important sailing centre. Every August the town hosts a festival of sailing. In earlier times it was a fishing port known for its oyster beds. A bi-annual pub crawl is held in fancy dress raising money for the Samaritans. Ian Drury and the Blockheads allude to the upmarket nature of the town in the song “Billericay Dickie”.

Return to the car or station which is about a mile inland.

Picture shows two scenes near North Fambridge.

Walk 19 Rochford to Wallasea Island (Essex)

Walk 19 Rochford to Wallasea Island (Essex)

Map: L/R 178

Distance: 8 – 20 miles depending on how far you decide to walk on Wallasea Island

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: mostly paths which can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport – Rail station at Rochford.   
ADDED INFORMATION: Many thanks to Hilary from the RSPB Wild Coast Project on Wallasea Island who has let me know that a new bus service runs from Rochford to Wallasea - No.174 the Crouch Village Link.

This walk gives a flavour of this quiet but sometimes bleak marshy part of Essex near to the coast. The start is in Rochford which is worth a quick look around. It is a medieval market town with some old buildings. Rochford Hall is one of these and was once owned by Thomas Boleyn the father of Anne- Henry V111 visited the hall before their marriage. It is now privately owned so only the exterior can be viewed. Nearby is St Andrew’s Church, the only church in England in the middle of a golf course!

Follow the roads and paths to the mill marked on the map and then down to the path that goes eastwards along Pagelsham Reach. Muddy marshy shores are revealed when the tide is out. After a couple of miles Barling Marshes and the church at the village of Barling can be spotted on the opposite bank. Bizarrely, near here a nude man was sitting on a chair enjoying the winter sun. A strategically placed umbrella preventing any embarrassment!

Further along Potton island and further in the distance Foulness Island can be seen. Potton Island is sparsely populated and in the 1980s and 90s was considered as a potential site for the disposal of nuclear waste. Foulness is Saxon for ‘cape of birds’. In 1982 it was chosen as one of the possible sites for a third London airport. As explained in the last walk, it is highly militarised and a phone call is required before attempting to walk on any section of it.

A few boats are moored along Pagelsham creek and a very rusty boat remains tied up, presumably abandoned. Before the creek becomes the River Roach follow the path up the side of Pagelsham Pool next to Clements Marshes. The path winds its way round until it reaches the road along which you can cross to Wallasea. Once over the other side, a path appears soon on the left, follow this up to the marina with its many boats and a pub. A ferry is near the path and this shuttles between the island and Burnham on Crouch on the opposite bank.

Wallasea Island was farmland mainly devoted to the production of wheat and was used extensively in both world wars to help feed the population. It has been subject to flooding especially in the severe storm of 1953. Currently it is undergoing a major conservation scheme – the largest ever undertaken in the UK. The RSPB aims to combat the threats of flooding by recreating the original mudflats and salt marshes. Once completed the island will be a haven for an array of wildlife with access for the public. Completion is estimated to be around 2019. 

It is worth walking a mile or so along this path to appreciate the view along the river. A large collection of wooden cases were rotting in the water when I walked this section.

At this point I returned but if you are feeling energetic the sea wall can be walked for some distance. I understood from a local that it is a remote and peaceful ramble although rather featureless.

Pictures: sailing boats at Wallasea Island; rotting packing cases on the shore at Wallasea.

Walk 18 Southend-on-Sea to Great Wakering

Walk 18 Southend-on-Sea to Great Wakering (Essex)

Map: L/R 178

Distance: About 8 miles

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: mostly paths and pavements, parts can be very muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport – regular bus service between Great Wakering and Southend-on-Sea, less frequent on Sundays.  

This walk is probably best done over a weekend to (hopefully) avoid some of the military activity along this part of the coast. Start at the pier and walk eastwards along the promenade passing amusements of various types. The beach is a mixture of sand and shingle; it goes out up to a mile at low tide increasingly revealing a muddy shore. After about a couple of miles the beach huts at Shoebury Common are reached. Access to the coast is not allowed after this because of the Shoeburyness military and firing range. The loud bangs that come from this area can be heard on the other side of the Thames.

The next part requires some careful map reading as the road goes inland into the town of Shoeburyness. (Mentioned in H G Wells – War of the Worlds). Find the way across and down to near Shoeburyness Rail Station. On this part of the walk you should pass a pub called the Captain Mannering (should be Captain Mainwaring); he was the character in the TV series Dad’s Army. A few scenes were filmed near here on the military areas. Walk along the small footpath to the coast. Looking back along the waters edge of Pig’s Bay part of the blocked off military area is visible. The artillery base was established here in 1858 to test Armstrong guns against iron clad warships.

Continue walking eastwards across the grass until the road moves back inland. Old barracks covered much of the surrounding land when I walked there. I was amused by a house called Pussy's Palace which turned out be a boarding house for cats! A path comes off the road and a ‘welcome’ notice informs you of the danger of picking up shot, shell, bombs or projectiles. This path may not be open during weekdays. At the end follow the path to Wakering Stairs. This is a strange walk but surprisingly popular. Military debris can be spotted amongst the stones and rocks and I understand that it is good area to spot Brent Geese.

Continue walking until Haven point is reached. From here you can see the buildings on the highly militarized Foulness Island. There are a few paths marked on the map across this island but I was informed by a local resident that access is very restricted and potentially dangerous. I decided to stay clear. The Broomway, once a firm track across the Maplin Sands to Foulness, is marked on the map. This is a volatile area and there is a phone number to see if it is safe to cross. Good luck to anyone who tries it!

I turned around at this point and made my way back to Great Wakering via footpaths and roads. It is possible to walk a bit further round and follow the paths back using a different route. Great Wakering is a pleasant end to the walk with historic pubs, a medieval church and a number of small shops.

Pictures show: Sir John Betjeman train on Southend Pier; a view back down the pier to Southend; Captain 'Mannering' pub; Wakering Stairs.

Walk 17 South Benfleet to Southend-on-Sea

Walk 17 South Benfleet to Southend-on-Sea (Essex)

Map: L/R 178

Distance: About 8 miles (9 or 10 miles if the pier is included)

Difficulty: easy, mainly flat

Terrain: mostly paths and pavements, parts can be muddy

Access: Parking at both ends

Public transport – Rail stations at South Benfleet and Southend.

Leave South Benfleet Station and walk in an easterly direction along the road to join the shore path alongside Benfleet Creek.

Benfleet was a settlement in the 5^th century when it was largely marshland. The name derives from a Saxon word meaning ‘tree stream’ – where creeks from the Thames join the woodland to the north. The Battle of Benfleet took place in 894 between the Vikings and Saxons, it was won by the army of Edmund the Elder who was one of King Alfred’s commanders. Local people are often known as ‘Bennies’ but don’t call them this as it is considered to be an insult!

A bit further along the path passes through a yacht club. If you are hungry or thirsty a converted vessel called ‘Barge Gladys’ is open to non-members. Soon you will enter Hadleigh Castle Country Park where the path follows the creek until it eventually widens into the Thames. The park was once a wooded royal hunting ground before being cleared in the 14^th and 15^th centuries. To the north of the riverside are the ruins of Hadleigh Castle. This was built in 1230 and rebuilt by Edward 111 in1360 before being sold to a lord in the 16^th century. It was originally built to defend the Thames estuary.

The path passes a bridge which leads to Two Tree Island. This is now a 634 acre nature reserve and is worth a stroll around, particularly if you like bird watching. (I understand that local groups have successfully encouraged avocets on to the island).

The island was reclaimed from the sea in the 18^th century and in more recent times (up until 1988) it was a council rubbish tip.

Leigh on Sea is a short distance from the island. The attractive and quaint front includes an anchor salvaged from a Norwegian vessel. The town has a long history of fishing and between the 16^th and 18^th century it was a ship building port. There are many shellfish merchants along the front with cockles featuring very strongly. Most of the fish are caught off the Maplin Sands to the east of Southend. John Fowles the author of The French Lieutenant’s Woman was born here. H G Wells bought a house in Marine Parade when he was having an affair with the author Rebecca West. In 2007 the town came second in a survey of the most desirable places to live in England.

The railway between Fenchurch Stree and Shoeburyness runs alongside part of the path between Leigh and Southend-on-Sea. The first part of Southend is the suburb of Westcliff on Sea. There is a mixture of architecture on the front including a parade of restaurants with brightly coloured tented awnings. Trevor Bailey the England cricketer and radio commentator came from here and the actress Helen Mirren went to a school in the town.

Southend-on-Sea has seven miles of seafront although it was originally a sleepy hamlet once known as the ‘south end’ of Prittlewell. It became a seaside resort during the Georgian era. Its nearness to London coupled with train access means that it has maintained its popularity as a day trip and holiday destination (notwithstanding the general decline of seaside resorts in the 1960s/70s). A number of personalities are associated with the town including the comedians Lee Evans and Phil Jupitus.

The approach to the west side of the town is attractive. The impressive Cliffs Pavilion, a venue for various events, looks down from the top of the cliffs. Further along are the Cliffside gardens topped by a terrace of Georgian houses. From August to October Southend is illuminated by 100,000 coloured lights and floodlights. Further along you will see the lift which saves the walk up the hill to
the town centre, the top level provides good views of the seafront and beaches. Opposite this is the pier and no visit to Southend is complete without a visit. It is the longest pleasure pier in the world.

I walked the approximate one and a third miles to the end and got the pier railway back. Over the years the pier has been ravaged by storms, ship collisions and fires. Various attractions, including a theatre, have been victims of these events. When I visited it was still suffering from a fire in 2005 which had curtailed the railway line. Things may have improved now but there was very little at the end of the pier. The tea shop was unaffected and the lifeboat station was still there but other facilities, including the toilets, had gone. Bizarrely the only amusements were a ‘speak your weight’ machine and a ‘talking telescope’. Good views in all directions are possible when there is good visibility – blighted a little by the dominance of the Grain Power Station opposite. (update - now closed)

Southend also boasts the first pier railway in the world. Originally there were electric cars followed by ex London Underground units – now there are diesel powered engines. One of the two trains is called ‘The Sir John Betjeman’ because this poet once said: Southend is the pier. The pier is Southend.

Pictures show: The Barge Gladys cafe at South Benfleet; Westcliff on Sea; Cliffs Pavilion, Southend; Georgian Terrace, Southend.