Walk
175 Woolacombe to Ilfracombe (Devon)
(Third
leg of English coastal walk – Lands End to Bristol)
Map:
L/R 180
Distance:
10 miles of 16 km approx
Difficulty:
challenging – lots of ups and downs
Terrain:
mainly cliff coastal path
Access:
Parking at both ends.
Public
transport: Buses 32 and 31 run between the two towns about once an
hour.
Follow
the path out of Woolacombe to Barricane Beach which is a Site of
Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) mainly for the shells and fossils
within the slate.
From
here on the views and terrain are very rugged and include Morte Point
with the dreaded Morte Stone on its north side.The Morte Stone, with its sunken reef, was called The Death Stone by the Normans because of the number of ships wrecked trying to get round it.The area is a SSSI
because of the fauna and flora on the heathlands. It was also used
for military practice in World War 2.
About
a mile further around Rockham Bay is Bull Point and lighthouse. Due
to subsidence, a new lighthouse was built in 1972 to replace the
1879 original. The old keepers cottages which surround the lighthouse
are now used for holiday lets.
Continue
along the coast path, which is also part of The Tarka Trail (named
after the otter in Henry Williamson's book), to Lee Bay a place which
was renowned for smuggling in the past.
After
this point the path goes inland and soon you get good views of
Ilfracombe.
The
walk continues along The Torrs; the path here
zig-zags and was laid out by the Victorians to enjoy in
their leisure time.
There
are several points of interest in Ilfracombe. The Jubilee Gardens
include the Town Museum which is worth a look around. Opened in 1932,
it is housed in the laundry of the old Ilfracombe Hotel. Here you can
learn about the many fires in the town over the years put down to the
old 'jerry built' hotels.
The
strange large chimney-like towers are part of the Ilfracombe Landmark
Theatre. Although
they have
won design awards, the locals I spoke to in the museum are far from
impressed and told me that some call them 'Madonna's Bra'.
A
number of well known people have been associated with Ilfracombe
including Joan and Jackie Collins who went to school here, Peter
Sellers who made his first stage appearance at the theatre and Damien
Hurst who has erected a large bronze statue in the harbour called
Verity. The
bizarre sculpture
of
a
pregnant woman
holding
a large sword splits
opinion in the town (I was told).The
artist lives locally and has a restaurant here. Look out for the
mosaic on the park near sea
front
which celebrates the achievements of champion triple jumper Jonathan
Edwards who lived here for several years.
Capstone
Point looms up prior
to walking
around to the harbour. Ilfracombe is referred to in the Domesday Book
of 1086 when
it
refers to a watchtower that once overlooked the harbour. For many
years the town was just a fishing village but today it is the leading
holiday resort in North Devon.
Continue
the walk around to the harbour where there is much to look at. In the
1300s the harbour was used as an embarkation point for the wars in
Ireland. A couple of centuries later both men and ships were sent
from here to fight the Spanish Armada. Paddle steamers came here in
Victorian times bringing tourists from Bristol and South Wales.
Larger passenger ships still leave to visit Lundy Island. Lundy is
now owned by the National Trust. It is rich in wildlife and includes
a small village with an inn, a Victorian Church and a castle (but no
cars allowed).
On
the left, walking into the harbour, is an aquarium and the imposing
Lantern Hill topped by St Nicholas Chapel. The chapel was built
around 1300 and was once used as a lighthouse during the reign of
Henry V111. St Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors. Look out for
Ropery Road, an area in the past devoted to making rope.
Across
the harbour towards Beacon point is Rapparee Cove. In 1796, a ship
carrying British troops and French prisoners of war was wrecked and
50 people drowned. In Victorian times it was a ladies bathing beach.
In 1878, Alfred Price, a local boy, had an argument with the Crown
Prince of Germany in this area. The future Kaiser, Wilhelm 11, was
sent to Ilfracombe to be educated and during an altercation was
punched on the nose by Alfred. It is alleged that his hatred of the
English stemmed from this incident.
Photos show: the theatre 'towers' in Ilfracombe; Lantern Hill with St Nicholas Chapel, Ilfracombe; Verity, Damien Hurst sculpture in Ilfracombe Harbour.
