Walk
129 Brixham to Kingswear (Devon)
(Second
leg of English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)
Map:
L/R 202
Distance:
12 miles or 19km approx
Difficulty:
challenging, some steep paths to the coves.
Terrain:
mainly cliff coastal path
Access:
Parking at both ends
Public
transport: 18, 18A bus between the two towns.
Start
the walk at Brixham Harbour. In the 1880s the town was the country’s
leading fishery. Every year the town celebrates the old Brixham
Trawlers (powerful fishing smacks) with a ‘sail’ race around
Torbay.
At
the inner harbour can be seen an impressive replica of the Golden
Hind opened in 1963. It is very popular with tourists and is often
used by schools as a learning resource. Look out for The Mayflower
Garden near the quayside put together by locals as part of a Pride in
Brixham event. A replica of The Mayflower (Mayflower 2) was built in
Brixham and sailed to the USA in the 1950s.
Near
here is Greville House which was built as an orphanage in 1813 as
part of the Torbay and Dartmouth Mission. It provided for the sons of
deceased British seamen and was last used as an orphanage in 1988. It
was reopened by the charity in 1990 as an outdoor education centre.
Brixham
earned a reputation for smuggling in the 18th century. In
one famous incident contraband was transported in coffins during an
outbreak of cholera. The town also played an important role during
the D Day landings in 1944 when US troops destined for Utah beach
embarked from here.
Continue
the walk out of the town up to Berry Head which is part of a country
park. The fort up here was built during the Napoleonic Wars of 1794
and 1804 and is on the site of an old Iron Age fort. Nearby is the
lighthouse with a compass type guide naming the various views
from this lookout point. Now for a bit of factual trivia. This
lighthouse is the highest, shortest and deepest in England. Highest
because no other lighthouse stands on a headland so high. Deepest
because its 30 foot pit houses the clockwork weights by which it is
driven. Shortest because the lens is just 6 feet above ground level.
The lighthouse was built in 1906 and is now electrically operated.
Continue
the walk around to St Mary's Bay which has a sand and shingle beach
accessible only by footpath. The area around here, some owned by The
National Trust, is a haven for rare species that depend on the thin
limestone soils. These include the greater horseshoe bat which has
been encouraged by introducing cattle. Cow pats are produced by the
cattle, these in turn produce dung beetles which are food for the
bats!
The
walk continues with coves, remote beaches, rugged rocks and steep
paths. Continue around Scabbacombe Head, soon the path turns
inland alongside the estuary. Look out for the Mew Stone and the
caves near it.
At
Mill Bay Cove is Brownstone Battery which is one of the few surviving
Second World War defence positions. Further buildings are hidden
among the trees including gun and searchlight positions. It was built
in 1940 to protect the Dart Estuary and was manned by 300 soldiers
who watched for the invasion that never happened. It was
decommissioned in 1950 and is now in the care of The National Trust.
Look out for The Mill at Mill Bay Cove. This was a disused limekiln
that was converted into a watermill and boathouse in the 19th
century in the form of a 'castle'. Across the estuary is Dartmouth
Castle.
The
walk ends at Kingswear where there is a ferry to Dartmouth. The lower
ferry slipway has been a landing place for a long time. In 1170
pilgrims from Brittany landed here en route to Canterbury. The TV
series The Onedin Line and the film of The French Lieutenant's Woman
were both partly filmed here. Look out for the wishing well built
into the wall near the main ferry.
Highly
recommended is a trip on the Dartmouth Steam Railway. This is unusual
in that it is run as a business for profit not charity. The original
line was opened in 1864 and sold by British Rail in 1973. It runs to
Paignton and back, with stops on the way, and links with the
Dartmouth Ferry. Pay extra for an observation carriage if you can.
Top photo shows: Replica of The Golden Hind at Brixham, Bottom one: Berry Head Lighthouse.
