Walk 124 Budleigh
Salterton to Lympstone with visits to Exton and Topsham and suggested trip to A La Ronde (Devon)
(Second leg of
English coastal walk – Broadstairs to Lands End)
Map: L/R 192
Distance: 11 miles or 17kmm approx (includes walks around Exton and Topsham)
Difficulty: moderate
Terrain: cliff paths, road and lower coastal paths
Access: Parking at both ends
Public transport: Bus 157 goes hourly between Budleigh and
Exmouth, a train leaves hourly for Lympstone from Exmouth Station
Leave Budleigh Salterton by climbing up the coastal path on
to the cliffs of West Down. From here there is a good view of Littleham Cove
and Otter Cove with their distinctive red rocks. When I walked along here there
was sporadic gun fire from the military range at Straight Point – the path must
be strictly kept to and danger avoided. To the right is a huge caravan site of
over 2000 units. The estuary of the River Exe can be seen in the distance.
Continue along the cliffs above Sandy Bay and down on to the
road which leads in to Exmouth. Walk past the lifeboat station and to The Point
then navigate along the roads to the main sands (Exmouth rail station is near
here). The town was a fishing village from pre Roman times and be the end of
the 12th century was one of Devon’s main ports. The town became a
popular resort in the mid 18th century when many fine Georgian
houses were built. The front is quite attractive with its distinctive clock-tower
and wide sands (when the tide is out).
Follow the coastal path out of Exmouth and continue to
Lympstone. This is a small attractive coastal village. To the north of
Lympstone are the Lympstone Barracks – which house the Royal Marines.
The next two points can be reached by rail or car. Walking is
possible but involves a tedious trudge along various roads inland.
Exton is on the single track rail line from Exmouth to
Exeter. The mudflats, sandbanks and marshland of the estuary of the Exe are of
international importance and provide thousands of habitats for birds and other
wildlife.
At Topsham look out for the houses that have been converted
from old storehouses and sail lofts. These date from the town/village’s heyday
as a major British port and shipbuilding centre. There are several Dutch style
buildings – these stem from the wool and cotton exported from here – Dutch
bricks acting as ballast in the ships were brought in on the return
journey. The shop on the high street has
a mural which reflects Topsham’s past.
The museum has interesting information about Topsham including a section on the actress
Vivien Leigh. Her connection with the village is through her one time husband
Leigh Holman whose sister lived in the house which is now the museum. She
founded the museum and made several donations connected with the actress.
Close to Lympstone is the unique building ‘A La Ronde’ owned
by the National Trust. This 16 sided house, once owned by two spinsters, is
well worth a visit. On their return from a grand tour of Europe in the late 18th
century the ladies designed this unique building and included a shell gallery,
feather frieze and other idiosyncrasies. This is best visited by car.
Photos show: Littleham, Otter Coves and Straight Point; Sands at Exmouth; Exmouth front and clock tower; single track railway line near Exton; Topsham; A La Ronde.
